Okay, try to make this short as possible...

Last year, the I ended up cutting my driving early on the RS-T because one day on the way to work, the car just shut down. Pulled over, it just cranked and cranked and wouldnt start. Finally it started, so I started driving and noticed my wideband o2 was reading really super ass rich, like less than 11 on the gauge. Then it shut down again, cranked and wouldnt start. Started up a little after it got cool and drove okay, started puffing mad black smoke from being really rich, shut down again, let it cool and it would start.

Never found the overall problem to that...

Was thinking, possible IAT or Cam/Crank sensor? Any idea on that?

The reason I am bringing this up is because now my car Idles under 11 again on the wbo2 gauge and vac is at 12hg's. I know my timing might be off possibly a tooth, and its getting fixed with a new belt on saturday morning. Now, I do have 525's in there as injectors, idle pressure is set to 12-14psi on the SFMU and it still idles rich, when I step on it at idle, i get the usual black smoke and a backfire and somewhat of a stumble. Also have a CEL for bank 1 too lean. How can I be lean with those injectors?

Something just isnt making sense to me, can someone knowledgable (sp?) shed some light to a young man please.

TIA!

525's? Why such a high injector?? I would change them to 440's. Are you running an SAFC? Did you try to reset the ECU? To reset the ECU I just pull the engine moteur and ignition moteur fuse for 5 minutes or so then replace them. Regardless its strange that it went away and then came back. Your A/F should only be at 11 under boost. At idle you A/F should be as close to 14.7 as you can. Not under boost your A/F should be around 13 or so.

Yes I have an S-AFC but its not hooked up again yet.

I know what A/F should be at idle, close to 14.7 as possible for a good A/F mix and around 11.4 for me for boosting.

I have high injectors for high boost, 20-22psi.

There is no way that iding the 525 & SFMU only is not good. Pull the plugs and see if you are fouling them. I bet that could very well be your problem. Timing off can make your AFR change drastically depending on how bad you were to start off with.


Did you ever get my email about your axles?

Terry

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
There is no way that iding the 525 & SFMU only is not good. Pull the plugs and see if you are fouling them. I bet that could very well be your problem. Timing off can make your AFR change drastically depending on how bad you were to start off with. Did you ever get my email about your axles? Terry

No Terry, I never got the email about my axles, what about them?

I guess I will hook my S-AFC up again and lean it out A LOT. I putting a new timing belt on tomorrow too, I guess I will throw in some new plugs as well.

Any idea's about what was going on last year though when I quit driving it with the stalling and what not?

Could have been just way too much fuel drowing it out.

Exile Racing Technologies
http://www.exileracing.com
Go that way, really fast, if something gets in your way... turn.

Originally posted by Michael_97RS
Could have been just way too much fuel drowing it out. Exile Racing Technologies http://www.exileracing.com Go that way, really fast, if something gets in your way... turn.

How about a crank sensor or upstream o2?

K I think I may have figured it out. I got the timing back right again with a new belt and it still ran funny. I was overlooking everything and found that the MAP sensor had broken and was just hanging there. Got a new one and it fixed the problem so far, I am now seeing 14.7 again at idle on 18psi idle pressure...