Well my car is just not doing so good, I just replaced the front and rear o2 sensor, fuel filter and alternator, and it still is running bad. When i start it up in the morning, it cranks a little slow, and almost stalls out right away, doesnt even hit 1k rpms, drops to like 500, catches itself and struggles to get to 1000-1200 at cold idle.

Then it almost always wants to stall when I let off the gas going slow, or when i come to a stop sign/light, sometimes it the rpms wont drop, they will stay still, but then as im sitting at the light, they will gradually get lower and lower until the 2nd line from 0, and just idle there, and the car shakes and stutters, unless I put it in neutral or turn the steering wheel, then the rpms will go back up for a little while.

And then, when im driving, and go to floor it, it doesnt do what its supposed to, normally the car will pull hard as hell, and rpms will go up to like 5k or so, and pull, but most of the time now, it will just hesitate once or twice, and just go a little faster, or go a higher gear, but not like its supposed to. Its been doing this for a long time now, I just hoped replacing them things might help since they were all bad, but no, it hasnt. Even resetted the battery a few days ago as well, and it still ran like crap almost immediately, I hate it, I just want my car to run the way it should, it doesnt even feel as fast sometimes, I dont know what else it could be...and for the record, my SAFC is not hooked up to the MAP sensor, just hooked up so it shows all the normal things

Does this still happen after the engine is good and warmed up? Have you considered the coolant temp sensor (CLT)? In ideal conditions, your car is going to run pig rich when cold due to the low vacuum from the cams and port work. Toss a crapped-out CLT into the mix and it's going to think it's -246* and dump even more fuel into the cylinders. Not exactly conducive to helping things along.

Aside from that, I would consider adjusting your throttle plate stopper (the little arm that sticks out of the TB on the front side - where the cable connects to the actual shaft) to force the engine into a higher idle to overcome stalling while cold.

I found that, when I would pull the main fuse for my engine (poor man's theft deterrent), the ECU would have to start the LTFTs all over again and she would stall out all the time while cold. The longer the ECU keeps the trims up, the easier it gets.

Just my two cents, man.

Originally posted by DR1665
Does this still happen after the engine is good and warmed up? Have you considered the coolant temp sensor (CLT)? In ideal conditions, your car is going to run pig rich when cold due to the low vacuum from the cams and port work. Toss a crapped-out CLT into the mix and it's going to think it's -246* and dump even more fuel into the cylinders. Not exactly conducive to helping things along. Aside from that, I would consider adjusting your throttle plate stopper (the little arm that sticks out of the TB on the front side - where the cable connects to the actual shaft) to force the engine into a higher idle to overcome stalling while cold. I found that, when I would pull the main fuse for my engine (poor man's theft deterrent), the ECU would have to start the LTFTs all over again and she would stall out all the time while cold. The longer the ECU keeps the trims up, the easier it gets. Just my two cents, man.

Well i replaced it like last fall i believe, so i doubt its that, although, sometimes my temp goes up a little more than normal, maybe another 1/4 up the gauge, and that scares the shit out of me. The wanting to stall, and rpms dropping at stop signs/lights happens all the time, but its not AS bad when its cold, it gets worse when its warmed up though.

And when i try adjusting the idle screw, my idle gets crazy, it surges bad, not just when i stop, whenever the hell it feels like it, and it will idle high sometimes for no apparent reason too, ya know, now that i think about it, the TB (55mm) i bought from a guy on ebay wasnt exactly good craftmanship, plate didnt seal right, i could see right through to the other side, among other things, im wondering if thats my problem? also, when i do increase idle with that screw, it does nothing for my idle, it will still drop down, and idle low, like if i have the car running, and turn it so my car idles at 1000, next time i drive it, it wont be at 1000, like 700 or so, so adjusting it does nothing for me

I would replace the IAC (Idle Air Control) sensor. It is the lower sensor on the back side of the throttle body. I believe there are (2) 8mm bolts holding it on. The top one is the TPS (throttle position sensor). This should fix your idle issue as well as the car stalling when slowing down.

Originally posted by eclipse7782
I would replace the IAC

i replaced both the IAC and the TPS within 1.5 years, replaced at the same time too, thats when i got my TB from some guy on ebay, once i installed it, the car ran weird, so i thought i needed to replace them and i did, so i hardly think its them, any other sensors maybe?

Actually, when i went into work today, my cel light came on, and it blinked 23, but the haynes manual doesnt have a 23, so i took it to my job, and they used their scanner, and it came up as the IAT sensor circuit high voltage or something to that nature. I just replaced the sensor in december i think, so i doubt its the sensor, but the wiring looks all weird, even the mechanic at my job said so, would having a SAFC hooked up have anything to do with the IAT?

anybody?

You have an IAT code. Put an IAT sensor in it. It's halfway down the back of the intake mani.

i know that, i was asking if it would cause all the problems my car is having, and also i just replaced the thing a few months ago, but im wondering if it has anything to do with the weird wiring slowboy did to the IAT, cause the scanner said voltage to high, or something like that?