I just rebuilt my engine about 2500 miles ago and sents i've had to put 1qt about every other day. :shrug no leaks no white/blue smoke. runs great.

What does the coolant look like? Any iridescent coloring on the surface when you open the radiator cap?

just replaced the heater hose and it still looked like the day i put it in when i did the rebuild.

checked your sparkplugs? maybe the oil is going down the wells

Incorrect piston ring size? I think that Corbin had major oil consumptio issues when he first built his engine. He may be able to help you out if nobody else can.

i had the machine shop put the piston, rings, crank and rods in. and the car runs great. how would i even be able to tell if the rings where the wrong size?

Not too sure how you can tell. As I said tho, Corbin built his entire engine, and it wasnt till he had massive oil consumption issues, that he figured he had the wrong rings in there. And Corbin is a VERY intelligent guy!!!!

I know that he is on a cruise with his wife right now, but I would shoot him a PM and ask. Hopefully he will be able to give you a better answer than I have been able to.

ok thanks do you know when he get back?

Well if the oil is leaking then it's going somewhere. Have you already checked the major places on the outside of the motor? Front and rear main seals, cam seals, oil pump body bedplate seal oil filter adapter area? I am trying to remember how he found out it was the rings... Check the plugs for oil and check the intake piping too.
EDIT: just remembered that it showed up in his exhaust primarily, started leaking around the manifold/ DP area, if I remember correctly. You may want to pop off the DP and just check it out. All new motors will eat a good bit of oil during break in, but with your mileage that should have come in line by now...

There no leaks from any where. There is no oil in the exhaust. I have the aem long tube for intake piping with no oil in it. The pulgs do have carbon on them, but that's because i'm runing rich(310cc injectors). The only thing i can think is that i put moble 1 in to soon or it the rings

When did you start using synthetic (as in mileage), and what did you do for break in? Do a compression test

i start using synthetic around 500-700 miles. as for break in a good amount of gas 40-75% and then let off and let it draw a good amount of vac. and right now at idle o draw about 20-22 hg in vac.

What did you have rebuilt? Just the block? Or did you mess with the head any?

what kind of rings are you using? I got those total burn err total seal rings and my car ate like a quart of oil every 100 miles. Car ran great, great power for a NA even turbo, great gas mileage, no oil leaks, the plugs would get black and sooty and so would the tail pipe. Why I'm rebuilding my engine again :(

But thats my fault for not checking tolerances correctly and assuming I could just home my cylinders out and pop in stock size pistons. O_0's

Originally posted by HadesOmega
Car ran great, great power for a NA even turbo, great gas mileage, no oil leaks, the plugs would get black and sooty and so would the tail pipe.

i also have the total seal rings. as for the rebuild i just did the block and had the head checked out and its in good shape. As for checking tolerances i had a good machine shop put the short block together just so i would not have to worry about this. put is i do have to do a rebuild what rings should i get and what should the tolerances be. 8.8:1 je pistons .020 over

ehh...yea....told ya about those total seals

i havent seen any good things from them, and thats probably the problem

ask corbin, he went through hell and back with his total seals

edit: still have the pcv connected? the increased vaccuum might be drawing in the oil. also personally i think you switched to synthetic way to quick.

Originally posted by turbo8u
ehh...yea....told ya about those total seals i havent seen any good things from them, and thats probably the problem ask corbin, he went through hell and back with his total seals edit: still have the pcv connected? the increased vaccuum might be drawing in the oil. also personally i think you switched to synthetic way to quick.

ok so what rings should i go with(send link).My next oil change will be going back to reg oil. Also should i disconnect the pcv or leave it? I sent corbin a pm but i guess he is on a cruise. Also when will you be coming back to san clemente if its going to be soon i might just wait till you get here to help me(if you dont mind). i hope its not the rings..

im really not sure about the pcv because i have no experience with the total seals. my friend chris had them though, and he blocked off the pcv entirely. his car ran great and didnt eat a lot of oil. don't take his setup for gold, but it did work. i heard somewhere you need to block the pcv off though, corbin will know. he had other problems though. you dont really need to go BACK to conventional oil now though, what are you at like 2500 miles? the conventional oil is for the initial break in time like 1500 miles or so.

edit: i graduate the 24th, i'll be home the 25th

damn, i also have total seals. Just finished my rebuild. Hopefully i don't come up with the same problem.

I also have total seals, and also use a bit of oil. Maybe 1/2 qt every 7-800 miles if I'm not driving hard.

Yes, you will have to disable the pcv system. The total seals came with instructions or a warning stating this, or mine did anyway. Cap off the port on the intake and put a breather filter on the valve cover. Also, did they replace the valve stem seals? I would guess not since they didn't touch the head. Sometimes if they haven't had oil on them for a while, they will dry rot and crack and eat a little oil.

so us peeps with the total seals HAVE to disable the pcv to avoid eating oil?

http://www.howellautomotive.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=192

at the bottom

Well I disconnect the PVC and add a qt and we will see what happens :shrug

disconnecting the PVC did nothing. looks like i will be rebuilding again any body know where to get a good set of ring for je forged piston?

damn, that sucks. I'm thinking the PVC thing had to be done early on when you first rebuilt. I just rebuilt, and disabled my PVC. Hopefully everything goes well with my total seals. good luck

PVC = PCV or positive crankcase ventilation

JE is in huntington beach Shawn, call them up...i'm sure they'll be able to help.

Sorry...I've been MIA from 2GNT for several months. Work has just been crazy and I'm rarely home. My rebuilt engine ate oil like crazy, but ran well, had good compression, did not visibly leak, and produced no visible smoke. By chance, a co-worker followed behind me in traffic. He said that my car let out a big cloud of smoke when I accelerated and a light trail when I cruised. I couldn't see any of it out by rear view mirror. It turns out that the company I bought my "long rod" rebuild kit from forgot to include a spacer for the lower ring land. That gave the oil control rings room to wiggle around and get out of alignment. They were not controlling the oil at all. They were Total Seal rings, but the spacer was the issue. I bought a set of Hastings rings (just to be safe) and had the company send me the spacers. I put everything together and saw how snugly the oil control rings are supposed to fit. Now, there was no room for them to get out of alignment. I re-assembled the engine and my problems disappeared. Oil consumption is negligible, compression is great, power is good, and I couldn't be happier. If you got a long rod or stroker engine kit, you likely need the spacers. Maybe that is the problem.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
Now with more power and fewer leaks



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

no stroker or long rod. Just je piston and eagle rods.