iight guys, I bought a helicoil kit to rethread the stipped holes in my tranny for the tranny mount. I drilled all 3 holes, installed one coil and a stud in the hole closest to the firewall, but the other 2 holes I cant get the coil in b/c I bent the end of the coil installer, the part that grips the tab that breaks off. Now since the other coils wont go in, would it be bad to just buy 2 studs that are the same size thread as the coil hole instead of the 10mmx1.5 and use threadlocker to hold them in place and use a nut to clamp it down, or do I have to use the coil? Thanks.... I have been trying to get them in for over 4 hours now and nothing.

You could try using a tap and getting new bolts.

just use some pliers and tear out the busted helicoil. You have to be SURE the newly tapped threads are perfect and clean, with NO leftover shavings. The coil needs to go in smoothly with noting interfering with it, or it will bind and you will break the insert tool. Be sure to use a good quality insert tool, and perfect tapped and clean threads, and it will go in nicely. Be sure you use the exact size helicoil drill bit as well. Run the tap plenty of times, using oil. I clean the threads out with brake cleaner, and use an air compressor blow gun to finish it off.

I think I described the problem wrong.. the coil isnt broken, the coil installer is what is damaged, the bottom piece that grips the bottom tange of the coil bent, I tried shaving it w/ my dremel tool to make it 90 degrees again, but I still isnt working, the threads are clean, but b/c of the installer the coil won't go in. it keeps trying to over spring the coil when I try putting it in, the first one went in perfectly. So my question is, are those new threads in the aluminum case (tranny case) strong enough to hold the studs in there, or do I have to use a coil? If I buy bigger studs, I can thread them in w/o using a coil, but I'm questioning if the threads will be strong enough, if I tighten them down really good and use thread locker? thanks

Originally posted by 420Adebt
if I tighten them down really good and use thread locker? thanks

How do you think they stripped in the 1st place. You need to torque to spec, not wrench everything as tight as it will go.

Originally posted by djtrickee

Originally posted by 420Adebt if I tighten them down really good and use thread locker? thanks

How do you think they stripped in the 1st place. You need to torque to spec, not wrench everything as tight as it will go.

I'm referring to the studs, not the nuts. if I can get the studs to the same torque as the bolts were suppose to I would, but I dont know if they'll hold it. however if I install studs, the torque will be applied to the nut, not the stud. I dont know how much torque to put the studs at, I was going to worry about that after I got my question answered...

oh and that's not how they became stripped in the first place, I was using a torque wrench when I found out the problem, and that was the first time those bolts had ever been removed... so I honestly dont know how they were stripped, I'm guessing the stress from trying to torque them w/o the crossmember in was putting strain on the threads, but I dont know. thanks though, if you know of a good torque spec for studs that will support the nuts please let me know, I've tried searching for a statistic or ratio you need, but so far nothing.

do it right man, buy a new helicoil installer

ok nevermind, I just got them in... I dremeled the coil installer's bottom better and it worked perfect... now my question is, what torque should the studs be? now note, they are not bolts, they are studs, so the torque of the nuts are what will hold the motor mount bracket down... thanks

I dont think the torque would be the same as the bolts were originally, I know w/ arp studs for the head that they arent... and I dont know how much torque a coil can with stand, so any help would be appreciated.thanks

The installer is a piece of junk, i know. A triangular file will also help you to make a notch in it so you can thread the coils in. Good job getting them in. The studs doen have to be too tght but it sounds liek you got them in just past snug which is great. The locktite will lock the stud into the case. The studs only need to stick out of the case about 1" so if they are real long, they might get in the way when maneuving the trans.

Good luck, lets hear how it goes in with studs instead. I am thinking the next tiem i pull mine that i might install studs to save a few minutes.

Terry

thanks man for all the help.. hopefully if the weather isnt as shitty as it has been tomorrow after class I'm gonna get that bitch back in, I'll update ya definately.. thanks again