hi, my safc is telling me that; with my foot firmly planted on the accelerator pedal (100%), that it is only down 77%.
I then went to sensor check mode and with the pedal still all of the way down, i have 3.72 volts. With my foot not on the pedal (0%), it reads 0.715 volts. Is this in spec.?
I know its supposed to be 0.40 and 3.80 volts, but does close count? thanks

that happens a lot with these cars

my pocketlogger does the same thing 9% at idle

75% at wot

its pretty common

i dont have a safc but i understand that you can calibrate to make it read 100%

so what youre saying is that it is not a problem?

Originally posted by donnywojnar
so what youre saying is that it is not a problem?

correct not a problem.

Ok, check this out though...
Forget everything i told you so far.
This is what happens, my car runs all good for about 6 min. when started up cold. Cold as in 32 degrees, i havent started it in 2 days either. Then when the needle almost reads warm it starts to sputter and shake, and it wont take any throttle. And it starts to smell like hot garbage.
Other than that it starts up wonderfuly, no cels until it trys to read the rear o2.

Originally posted by donnywojnar
no cels until it trys to read the rear o2.

so replace the rear o2.

You calibrate the SAFC by turning the car on, flooring the pedal, and watching the TPS percentage. it will slowly climb up to 100%.

seems to me that the rear o2 would only matter if the front one is bad, but i remmember driving to weld up my dowmpipe after i swapped out my turbo, with my exhaust comming right out of the turbo. And the car drove pretty much normal exept that it was load and smelly. but i only drove it for about 45 minuets.

Could a bad o2 over time make my car undriveable, without haveing a constant cel?

sounds like a clogged catalytic convertor, when it warms up it expands and chokes out the exhaust.

no cat. But i am thouroly convinced that my timing belt jumpped when it snowed real bad the other day.
Then if it did, im going to try and just turn it back with the adjustable cam gears and if not im going to invest in that mechanical tensioner and put the timing cover back on.
so remmember kids, it may look cool, but the timing belt cover is on there for a reason.

Originally posted by donnywojnar
no cat. But i am thouroly convinced that my timing belt jumpped when it snowed real bad the other day. Then if it did, im going to try and just turn it back with the adjustable cam gears and if not im going to invest in that mechanical tensioner and put the timing cover back on. so remmember kids, it may look cool, but the timing belt cover is on there for a reason.

I'm sorry, I may have misunderstood you. But if the timing belt physically jumped a tooth, you can't (and wouldn't want to) just readjust the cam gears to fix that. You'll have to remove the belt, reset the cams/crank and put the belt on again. Now, if the cam gears themselves moved, you can fix that.

Brian

Well, the day my car f'ed up, the timing belt became soaked with water (also the day before my vis hood came, I didn’t have a hood because... long story, don’t ask.), and it was very loose. The belt had about 3/4 (give or take 1/2 inch)of up/down play. I knew it was very possible that the crank jumped one or 2 teeth. Thus retarding both of the cams however many degrees. Anyway, i took a quick peak through the underdrive pulley to check the timing, I couldn’t get a good look. But from what i saw it looked good. Also i just did the timing over like 4 months ago and it was a bitch. So i decided to check everything else first.

Witch was also good because i fixed many stupid small problems (like a shitty ECU ground ) and now i don't have a constant check engine light. Witch has been on since i got the car in 00'.

Anyway, about the cam gears, everything on my car is new so I’m just going to wing it for like 3 weeks till its nice out. Then ill redo the timing belt.(bad idea).
obviously not my daily driver.


Hope all that makes scence and ill let ya know how it goes. later
Donny

Originally posted by donnywojnar
Ok, check this out though... Forget everything i told you so far. This is what happens, my car runs all good for about 6 min. when started up cold. Cold as in 32 degrees. Then when the needle almost reads warm it wont take any throttle. Other than that it starts up wonderfuly

This is my problem. And I am unable to solve it! I have replaced both o2's I have no cat however. I've replaced the tps, and the coolant sensor. Can any one help me? It starts fine, runs perfect untill operating temp is reached, then it still idles 100% fine but won't accept throttle, it won't rev past approx. 1,500rpm in neutral and won't go past 1,100 or so in gear. I also tried a friends map sensor and his wires and coil. Whats up???

Originally posted by CarbonFiberRST

Originally posted by donnywojnar Ok, check this out though... Forget everything i told you so far. This is what happens, my car runs all good for about 6 min. when started up cold. Cold as in 32 degrees. Then when the needle almost reads warm it wont take any throttle. Other than that it starts up wonderfuly

This is my problem. And I am unable to solve it! I have replaced both o2's I have no cat however. I've replaced the tps, and the coolant sensor. Can any one help me? It starts fine, runs perfect untill operating temp is reached, then it still idles 100% fine but won't accept throttle, it won't rev past approx. 1,500rpm in neutral and won't go past 1,100 or so in gear. I also tried a friends map sensor and his wires and coil. Whats up???

Ever try a known-good ECU?

Originally posted by DarkOne

Originally posted by CarbonFiberRST

Originally posted by donnywojnar Ok, check this out though... Forget everything i told you so far. This is what happens, my car runs all good for about 6 min. when started up cold. Cold as in 32 degrees. Then when the needle almost reads warm it wont take any throttle. Other than that it starts up wonderfuly

This is my problem. And I am unable to solve it! I have replaced both o2's I have no cat however. I've replaced the tps, and the coolant sensor. Can any one help me? It starts fine, runs perfect untill operating temp is reached, then it still idles 100% fine but won't accept throttle, it won't rev past approx. 1,500rpm in neutral and won't go past 1,100 or so in gear. I also tried a friends map sensor and his wires and coil. Whats up???

Ever try a known-good ECU?

I don't have one or know anyone with a 99 year model. :-(

A 98 should work.

Originally posted by DarkOne
A 98 should work.

Anyone have a 98 or 99 spare ecu? heh... only person i know has a 97 avenger.

Well, at least we can both work togather on this. I still didnt work on it today. It was all of 22 degrees, it will warm up soon though.
Ill be sure to post again as soon as i get some more info.