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Forum namePerformance/Engine
Topic subjectThis could be a problem. Oil line
Topic URLhttps://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=i5&topic_id=96188
96188, This could be a problem. Oil line
Posted by wickedtalon, Feb-04-06 08:48 AM




Thats what caused the knocking sound and loss of oil. The adapter snapped off in the block. Any suggestions on how to not break it next time? Stronger adapters?

Might as well put the new built bottom end in now.





New Crower Rods
New Je 8.8 pistons, .020 over
New Je Rings
New melling oil pump
New Std Clevite bearings
Low mileage 99 Eclipse block bored and honed, crank polished, assembled
New oil return for Hahn turbokit
New Oil Pan
New gaskets throughout

96189, RE: This could be a problem. Oil line
Posted by VTECKILLER, Feb-04-06 09:17 AM
humm not sure what to tell you jim Ive never seen one break off before maybe it was just bad luck you know I wouldnt worry to much about it just get your self a new nipple and call it good.

96190, RE: This could be a problem. Oil line
Posted by 96rs-t, Feb-04-06 10:11 AM
geez, you guys make it seem like removing an engine is so simple. Is it? i may need to rebuild, and wanna give it a shot myself.
96194, RE: This could be a problem. Oil line
Posted by eclpsmoneypit95, Feb-04-06 11:56 AM
Originally posted by 96rs-t
geez, you guys make it seem like removing an engine is so simple. Is it? i may need to rebuild, and wanna give it a shot myself.


The first time you do it is going to be a little rough. Just do the required research and have at it. I've had enough practice pulling my motor that I can have it out and back in by myself in one day. And if you get hung up on something, just ask the guys on this site.

Back on topic: That sucks. I would assume that peice would be strong enough....hmmm.
96195, RE: This could be a problem. Oil line
Posted by Blizare, Feb-04-06 12:56 PM
Shit I hope that doesn't happen to mine :P Although I ditched the oile pressure sending unit to hook up a oil pressure gauge which actually helps a lot :P

in regards to removing the engine.

Time to unhook everything. 3 hrs.

motor mounts and trany mounts, 20 minutes with proper air tools.

pulling motor out. 5 minutes.

IMO it's pretty easy with the right tools and a hoist.

then put it all together again. :)
96196, RE: This could be a problem. Oil line
Posted by eclpsmoneypit95, Feb-04-06 04:40 PM
Originally posted by Blizare
Time to unhook everything. 3 hrs. motor mounts and trany mounts, 20 minutes with proper air tools. pulling motor out. 5 minutes.


Knowing that you did it all yourself: timeless
96198, RE: This could be a problem. Oil line
Posted by Blizare, Feb-04-06 07:00 PM
Originally posted by eclpsmoneypit95
Originally posted by Blizare Time to unhook everything. 3 hrs. motor mounts and trany mounts, 20 minutes with proper air tools. pulling motor out. 5 minutes.
Knowing that you did it all yourself: timeless


Kinda knowing what's going on when shit fucks up : Priceless
96199, RE: This could be a problem. Oil line
Posted by eclpsmoneypit95, Feb-05-06 03:39 AM
Originally posted by Blizare
Kinda knowing what's going on when shit fucks up : Priceless


lol. Aint that the truth
96263, RE: This could be a problem. Oil line
Posted by DarkOne, Feb-09-06 06:12 AM
Originally posted by wickedtalon
Thats what caused the knocking sound and loss of oil. The adapter snapped off in the block. Any suggestions on how to not break it next time?


Remote mount it. This happens due to vibration and weight putting stress right at the spot it snapped off. Buy a 3/8ths NPT -> -4AN adapter and make a distro block.
96404, RE: This could be a problem. Oil line
Posted by wickedtalon, Feb-15-06 03:34 AM
The reverse threaded bolt extractor saved the day!