well anyways, i finally had my car running after 4.5 months, and it was running good, then it started getting idle surge bad, like when i would go to slow down, it would seem to miss maybe, then idle would jump, and when i stopped it would go up real high, and would sometimes actually move the car while i was braking. but then today is when the real problems started. car started beautifully, better than any other day, and i was on lunch going to get some gas and food, and on my way there, when i would stop the rpms would drop low, and it would sputter and almost die, but struggled to stay running, but it was bucking bad. so i got some gas and food, and started to drive back, and it started doing that again, only now, the temp gauge was going up so high, it almost hit H, so i pulled back in the lot and let it cool off for about 5 minutes, started it up and went to go again, and it did the same thing, it would idle so low, and buck and barely live, but i tried driving it, and it wouldnt go, i would give it gas and it wouldnt do anything, rpms wouldnt move, then sometimes it would go, and stop then go again, so i pulled it in a lot about 100 feet from the last place, thats how far i was able to drive it, called to get it towed, and i wouldnt have been able to get it towed until later tonight or tomorrow sometime, and since they didnt know, i wasnt gonna wait for them to get there, so after the car sitting for 30 minutes, tried driving it again, made it to the top of the hill barely, pulled in another lot, let it sit again cuz it was doin the same thing, and tried it again, cuz i was like 3 minutes from home, and it was almost all downhill, so i put it in neutral, while still doing the same thing, made it down the hill, and all i had to do was go thru 2 stop lights and up a hill and i was home, so i tried to drive it, and funny thing is, it was running fine, well not perfect, but it idled steady, low, like 500-600, but steady, and drove good, i gave it gas, it went unlike before, and luckily i got it home. i did a compression test, numbers were 190 190 200 200, give or take like 2 so im at a total loss at what it could be, id take it to a shop, but i doubt anyone will touch it since its foreign and has all this aftermarket stuff on it...im sick of my car, anyone wanna buy it?

EDIT: btw, driggs, if you see this, i took a look at the tensioner without taking everything off cuz my t-cover has a crack and a chunk missing on the bottom, and from what i could see, the pin isnt in the tensioner, so it couldnt be that either

Originally posted by bloodyangel1
i doubt anyone will touch it since its foreign

Dodge is foreign?

So...

It idles low, and surges. it overheated. Compression's good.

Got coolant?

i just replaced the upper hose cuz it was leaking, and i filled it back up, and the overflow bottle is at full, but what would coolant have anything to do with it sputtering and running like poop? altho i guess maybe you are tryin to work on one problem at a time?

Maybe nothing. maybe everything. Maybe your coolant temp sensor died, the ECU didn't kick the fans on, and that's why it overheated. Lack of coolant temp sensor input will make the car run like shit.

well i actually put a new one in during the summer, its the top one on the thermo. right? the one that threads in is the one i replaced, but lets just say it was that, would that also make it so that even when i give it gas, nothing happens, then it will go for a second, and not do anything again? also, i dunno if it has anything to do with anything, but since the car sat so long, i put a bottle of seafoam in the tank to clean up anything in there

Originally posted by bloodyangel1
would that also make it so that even when i give it gas, nothing happens, then it will go for a second, and not do anything again?

CLT is used by the ECU to determine fuel trims. If the CLT fails, it can make the ECU think it's -42* outside. The ECU will adjust fuel to warm the engine up quicker. When the air is warmer (and thus less dense with oxygen), this would be like flooding the engine. Near flooding would result in the engine bogging and wanting to die, but not doing so. Too much gas and not enough oxygen.

Originally posted by bloodyangel1
i put a bottle of seafoam in the tank to clean up anything in there

Upon researching Seafoam a bit, I guess it can be used as an addative, but I've never heard of anyone using it as such. :shrug

CLT? and if you search on dsmtuners, u will see tons of threads reguarding seafoam, check it out, it works wonders sucking it into the intake manifold, it will make your car run brand new

The only 2GNT'ers on DSMTuners that know what they're doing are from 2GNT.

Originally posted by DarkOne
The only 2GNT'ers on DSMTuners that know what they're doing are from 2GNT.

yeah ive noticed that, but what was the CLT? did he mean CTS?

CLT = Coolant Temp. it's noted as such in most datalogging software.

Originally posted by DarkOne
The only 2GNT'ers on DSMTuners that know what they're doing are from 2GNT.

:thumbsup

I don't even have 2000 posts over there, yet I'm a "Wiseman." Just goes to show you. I like to stick with one abbreviation for each sensor. CLT, as Dino mentioned, is what the temp sensor is called in most datalogging systems.

I know about Seafoam. I have heard of people adding it at the TB with the engine running, as well as pouring it into the combustion chambers through the spark plug holes. These write-ups are always sure to mention not adding too much to a running engine or getting it all out of the cyliders before cranking, as it can cause hydrolock. If something can cause hydrolock, I don't think it's a good idea to have too much of it in your fuel system. Just like water injection. A little has cleansing/octane boosting qualities, but too much is the death knell of the engine.

From what I saw in about 15 seconds of research earlier, is that about half a bottle of Seafoam on a full tank is okay. How much is in that bottle, or how much you used is a mystery to me.

Although, it's good to know you didn't leave that pin in place, I'm still going to refer to anyone who wrecks something brand new they just installed as pulling a "bloodyangel." :P

Originally posted by DR1665

Originally posted by DarkOne The only 2GNT'ers on DSMTuners that know what they're doing are from 2GNT.

:thumbsup I don't even have 2000 posts over there, yet I'm a "Wiseman." Just goes to show you. I like to stick with one abbreviation for each sensor. CLT, as Dino mentioned, is what the temp sensor is called in most datalogging systems. I know about Seafoam. I have heard of people adding it at the TB with the engine running, as well as pouring it into the combustion chambers through the spark plug holes. These write-ups are always sure to mention not adding too much to a running engine or getting it all out of the cyliders before cranking, as it can cause hydrolock. If something can cause hydrolock, I don't think it's a good idea to have too much of it in your fuel system. Just like water injection. A little has cleansing/octane boosting qualities, but too much is the death knell of the engine. From what I saw in about 15 seconds of research earlier, is that about half a bottle of Seafoam on a full tank is okay. How much is in that bottle, or how much you used is a mystery to me. Although, it's good to know you didn't leave that pin in place, I'm still going to refer to anyone who wrecks something brand new they just installed as pulling a "bloodyangel." :P

haha, i dont know how i should feel about referring to a mistake as a bloodyangel, at least my name would go down in 2gnt history. well as far as the seafoam goes, i was on about 1/8th tank of gas, poured the whole bottle (1pt) in, and put the gas in, but it started acting up b4 i filled her up. i also had to put a new radiator hose on, so i drained the coolant, and filled it back up, but i didnt fill it up all the way to the gooseneck, do you think that would cause this problem? and what about the crazy idle surge?

i had bad idle surge for a while and it ended up being my IAC.

i already thought of the iat and tps, but i replaced them about a year ago, so i doubt either of them went bad. could it be from having the idle turned up high?

My guess it that seafoam is a detergent or solvent, and as such probably isn't combustable. Wonder how adding non-combustable fluids into your fuel system makes a car run?

You added coolant, but didn't fill it all the way up? Can that cause overheating?

*edit - spelling

Originally posted by DarkOne
My guess it that seafoam is a detergent or solvent, and as such probably isn't combustable. Wonder how adding non-combustable fluids into your fuel system makes a car run?

That's what I was thinking, myself, but then I found this...


SEA FOAM MOTOR TREATMENT for Gas Engine Applications

100% Pure Petroleum
Use in All Engines in All Seasons
2 Cycle, 4 Cycle, and Diesels
Treats 3 Critical Areas: Gas Tank, Fuel Systems, and Crankcase


Cleans fuel injectors
Cleans carburetor jets
Cleans carbon
Stabilizes fuels
Upper cylinder lube
Removes moisture in fuel
De-icer
Frees sticky lifters
Frees sticky rings
Removes moisture in oil
Cleans P.C.V. systems
Cleans catalytic converter odors
Oxygen sensor safe



How Many Mechanics Use SEA FOAM
In Tune-Up of 4 Cycle Gasoline Carbureted or Fuel Injected Engines
Autos, Trucks, and Tractors
With engine warm, slowly pour 1/3 to 1/2 pint through carburetor or throttle body throat. (If vehicle is port injected slowly pour SEA FOAM through direct manifold vacuum line that will feed all cylinders, possible sources are P.C.V. valve or brake booster line.) This will pull SEA FOAM down on top of the pistons and to the back of the intake valves to dissolve carbon. Turn ignition off. Restart engine after 5 minutes. If severe carbon build up is apparent, use more Sea Foam as previously directed. Make sure exhaust is well ventilated when using Sea Foam in these various ways as fumes will be extreme for a short time.
Pour 1/3 to 1/2 pint into oil crank case to clean rings, lifters, dirty parts and remove moisture.
Pour 1/3 to 1 full pint into fuel tank to clean injectors, carburetor jets, fuel lines and remove moisture.
Immediate Results: Smoother idle, increased R.P.M.'s better throttle response and improved performance. See label on can for detailed results for use in each area.
FUEL TANK, CARBURETOR, INJECTION and OIL CRANKCASE.

For Peak Performance, Use SEA FOAM Every 2,000 to 5,000 Miles

A 100% pure petroleum product for use in all gasoline and diesel type engines, both 2 and 4 cycle. OXYGEN SENSOR SAFE.
Cleans dirty engine parts internally by removing harmful gums, varnish and carbon. WORKS AND PERFORMS INSTANTLY.
Removes moisture from oil crankcases and fuel tanks.
Stabilizes and conditions fuels. Use for engine storage.
Cure hesitations, stalls, pings and rough idle due to carbon buildup.
Helps pass emissions test. EPA Registered.
When Used Thru Injection or Carburetor

Cleans carbon build up
Cleans intake valves and pistons
Gives smoother idle
Cleans catalytic converter odors
Cures hesitations and pings
Restores power and pickup
With warm engine running, SLOWLY poor 1/2 pint through carburator, throttle body or direct manifold vacuum line that will feed ALL CYLINDERS. Possible sources are P.C.V. valve or brake booster line. Turn ignition off. Restart engine after 5 minutes. Be sure exhaust is well ventilated. Fumes will be extreme for a short period of time.
For use in injector cleaning machines, use 50% SEA FOAM and 50% fuel.
Fill diesel filters with SEA FOAM to clean injectors fast.
When Added to Crankcase (Oil)


Frees sticky lifters and rings
Increases R.P.M.'s vacuum and compression
Cleans dirty parts
Removes moisture
Cleans PCV valve systems

One pint treats 10 quarts of oil (avg. 1 1/2 ounce per quart). (Add it to the oil? - BD)

When Added to Fuel Tank
Cleans fuel injectors and carburetor jets
Cleans carbon as you drive
Lubricates upper cylinders
De-ices and removes moisture
Diesel full conditioner and anti gel
Stabilizes fuel
One pint treats 8-25 gallons of fuel (average 1 ounce per gallon).

In Injector Cleaning Machines

Add a 50/50 blend of fuel and SEA FOAM into injector cleaning machine. Run directly through the fuel rails to clean injectors fast. Add SEA FOAM to your fuel tank to clean injectors as you drive.

actually i think it was the coolant, it was real low, filled it up, and it ran like shit for a minute, but its better now, but my idle is still screwy, i think the throttle cable is messed up, ill give it gas and it will go up and stay there, then i lift up on the gas pedal and it goes back down. also i hooked up my vac gauge to the thing where my pcv valve hooks up to, i was reading 11 psi, bad huh, what would cause it to be that low?

Check the spring on the throttle body for the throttle cable, its a big spring sometimes mine gets stuck its such a pain in the ass.

Originally posted by bloodyangel1
actually i think it was the coolant, it was real low, filled it up, and it ran like shit for a minute, but its better now, but my idle is still screwy, i think the throttle cable is messed up, ill give it gas and it will go up and stay there, then i lift up on the gas pedal and it goes back down. also i hooked up my vac gauge to the thing where my pcv valve hooks up to, i was reading 11 psi, bad huh, what would cause it to be that low?

vac leak or your tb is open a little. but you say your rpms at idle are low 500-600 so check all your vac lines and all your sensors on the intake and tb.

Originally posted by selmerguy2003

Originally posted by bloodyangel1

vac leak or your tb is open a little. but you say your rpms at idle are low 500-600 so check all your vac lines and all your sensors on the intake and tb.

i actually turned it up to around 1k, but it still is acting funny, ill give it gas, and it will sometimes stay up there, and after a while drop back to normal, other times it will go up, come back down, but go back up by itself again real quick, then drop to normal once again. i guess ill try spraying starter fluid on all the lines and see if anything happens, but does the evap canister have anything to do with vac? i got into a wreck on the side like 2 years ago and had it fixed, but it always ran kinda funny since then, im wondering if the shop hooked it up wrong or something...

Excess air coming through a vaccum leak can cause a laggy return to idle. Also, make sure your throttle plate isn't opened slightly as this would allow more air than wanted into the engine.

Also is you have a missing link check that, my filter for the missing link got dirty and I had similiar symptoms. Remove the missing link and clean it out with water and dish soap and a q-tip. Dry it off put a new filter in it and try that. If not check your cam sensor and crank sensor. Any CEL Lights?

well i have cams,(would they cause lower vac?) so i turned the idle up to keep the car idling, if i had it set at stock, it would want to stall, so i have to keep the throttle plate open a bit. and whats a missing link, ive heard of it once, but thought it was some aftermarket thing, so i didnt search anything on it. is there any way other than spraying something on the lines to see where a leak is coming from?

man, my car is acting up again. it sometimes doesnt want to go, like it will rev, and rpms will go up, but the car doesnt want to move, then sometimes it will catch itself and go, other times i have to give it a ton of gas to get up and go. then when im driving its ok, but as soon as i let off the gas, it seems to be missing pretty bad, and has idle surge like crazy after it misses. then it will do it when i stop, idle will jump up like 500 then back down and up again then i stop, and its ok, but then sometimes the idle will drop real low, like below 500, its been doing this for like 2 years, not just since i redid the head. and when i was driving today, i had the gas at 2000rpms, and idle was jumping up and down 100 real quick, its never been this bad, im guessing my timing is off a tiny tiny bit, what do you guys think?