ok, so i finally got my head fixed after i bent the valves,turns out i had six bent.so i put it back on, check timing like a million times, lined up right each time, so got everything ready, left wires out, cranked to make sure it cranked, and it did, so i decide to throw all my fears behined me and try starting it, and after a few seconds, it finally started, hesitated for a millasecond, but then the rpms skyrocketed to like 3-4k rpms, so i touched the gas, rpms dropped for a few times, then it started to go up, but instead of dropping back down, it just stayed where i let off the gas, so i tried putting it in gear, it dropped down to around normal, so i put it back in park, and it went right back up, so i just turned it off. i didnt wanna leave it run, even though the computer might just need to learn once again, but its all new parts, and i dont want to break it in at 4k rpms. im scared because i need my car back, i just hope i didnt bend no damn valves again...anyone have some suggestions???

yeah, try checking your throttle cable. Mine gets stuck sometimes and the bitch revs up until you adjust it. The cable probably got stuck. It's stopping the plate from closing all the way, the able is probaly of it's track.

If this isn't it, then repost-

i have the cable all the way loose, you can even see its sorta hanging there, theres a bit of slack. tps and isc are both new within a year, new pcv valve as well. could the timing be off like a tooth and be causing this? i dont think it is because i cranked it over 4 times and each time everything lined up right

You left a vacuum hose off. Check the brake booster hose. To have the RPM's that high, its a very large leak. Brake booster hose? EGR pipe? Start double checking all your work, you made a small simple mistake somewhere.

Terry

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
You left a vacuum hose off. Check the brake booster hose. To have the RPM's that high, its a very large leak. Brake booster hose? EGR pipe? Start double checking all your work, you made a small simple mistake somewhere. Terry

I bet it is the EGR pipe

make sure you take your foot off the gas!

Seconds on the vac line. Did that myself back in the day. Fortunately, we caught it right away.

well i know i dont have the top pipe to the egr on because i lost the bolts so it may be that, and as far as the brake booster goes, its on the intake, but maybe it came off on the lower end of it, so im gonna check all that now, and im gonna check timing and compression again just to make sure, ill repost once i find something, and thanx for the help so far

you lost the bolts so you left it off?????? Stick your finger in that 9/16 hole....kinda big isnt it, thats one hell of a leak!

yeah... it turns out the high idle was from the egr pipe not being connected to the intake manifold, once i put it where it belonged, idle dropped to around 1k, but it still wasnt running right, there was definately ticking, and every so often i could hear a slight thump or something from the exhaust, like i may have been missing maybe i dunno. and ideas on the ticking, and thump noise? i lubed the lifters in oil before i put them in, so i dunno if it could still be lifter tick or not

Uhhhh...ummmm... what... huh.. left the bolts off? Ok find the freaking bolts or go buy some and get it back together then it should be fine.

-Kevin

i just did a compression test to make sure everything is good, so here are the results 250 200 207 210. reguarding the 1st one, my left spark plug gasket was leaking when i started it up so im sure some oil got in there and caused the number to be way higher than the other ones, i hope. also, does anyone know what size bolts that egr pipe needs to bolt on the intake?

just a quick question, does having good compression like that rule out having the timing off a tooth or 2?

Originally posted by bloodyangel1
just a quick question, does having good compression like that rule out having the timing off a tooth or 2?

i think you should bring your car to a shop and have them finish the job for you man...seriously.

egr bolts are 6mm X 1.0 thread or 6mm X 1.25 thread...i cant remember

i was only asking about the timing, that way i dont have to take off the motor mount and crank pulley to recheck it, because thats a pain in the ass having to get that motor mount bracket back off while the motor is in the car. and also i wanted to rule that out to narrow down the possibilities to figure why it aint running right. i tried gapping my BKR6E11's to .50 and got that egr mounted on with gasket, so we will see how it works now...

The compression numbers look fine. If your timing is off, normally the car runs real rough. It can affect the compression numbers, depending on the cam's profile. Fix the vacuum leak. The tick is probably just the lifters and you can let the motor run a bit more to listen where that other sound is coming from.


Brian

well i fixed the vac leak, and that was definately a problem, idle is now around 1000-1100 while cold, but it has a miss or something, i can hear it from the exhaust, and when i give it gas and let it drop down, it gets worse, almost seems like the car wants to stall even though its still at idle, so now i have no idea, fix one problem, and another one comes along, i just tryed gapping the plugs at .38-.40, and will see how that works

gap the plugs to .030 to .035

The car has aftermarket cams, no?

Originally posted by DarkOne
The car has aftermarket cams, no?

I want to say he got Crower 2s when he ordered his head. IF this is the case, the stock ECU doesn't love those new cams as much as you do. You're running way rich at idle and on the verge of flooding the engine. When you just free rev it like that, you dump a shit load of fuel in there and don't do anything with it.

My car will generally stall out on me upon initial start up, as I back out of a parking space and clutch-in to shift into first. Then, sometimes it will stall out on me in a drive-thru when I have to blip the throttle and barely slip the clutch to move the car two feet behind some lumbering SUV.

My idle, when the ECU can only get it to sit at 1000-1100, is smooth for the most part, but will have the odd sputter to it. Once things are warmed up and I'm sitting on a stock 750rpm idle, well, she's the eighth dwarf - Lopey. :P

Originally posted by DR1665

Originally posted by DarkOne The car has aftermarket cams, no?

I want to say he got Crower 2s when he ordered his head. IF this is the case, the stock ECU doesn't love those new cams as much as you do. You're running way rich at idle and on the verge of flooding the engine. When you just free rev it like that, you dump a shit load of fuel in there and don't do anything with it. My car will generally stall out on me upon initial start up, as I back out of a parking space and clutch-in to shift into first. Then, sometimes it will stall out on me in a drive-thru when I have to blip the throttle and barely slip the clutch to move the car two feet behind some lumbering SUV. My idle, when the ECU can only get it to sit at 1000-1100, is smooth for the most part, but will have the odd sputter to it. Once things are warmed up and I'm sitting on a stock 750rpm idle, well, she's the eighth dwarf - Lopey. :P

-lol- well i do have the stage 2 crowers, but the thing is, before i bent the valves, the thing ran almost perfect, the engine purred like a kitten, no ticking, nothing, idled great, no miss or anything strange noises from the exhaust, and when i took it for a drive it ran great, it had a weird idle, like it would give itself gas when i barely tapped it, like the rpms would go up by themselves then drop back down to normal, but the car had sat for 3 months, give it a few times on the road and im sure that would have cleared up. but now, its got this ticking/tapping noise that seems to be coming from the timing side of the engine, and like i said, the thing seems to be missing a lot, but i just regapped the plugs to about .33-.35 and will see how that works out. and also, as i pointed out, i had wonderful compression numbers, so so far nothing is bent
:+

that is because your cams were so far out of wack the idle appeared ok, not to mention the ECU was trying to relearn its idle.

The only way to try to compensate those cams are adjustable cam gears. Since the overlap is greater on the crower's you can try retarding the intake and advancing the exhaust 1-2 degrees to reduce the overlap. You might be able to make the idle a tiny bit better but you will never make then like stock.


Welcome to the 420a Cam world.

There's a rather interesting thread a couple down that links to neons.org that might help with bigger cams... interesting, indeed!

nope, still aint working. anyone near pittsburgh pa. wanna come help me fix it? -lol- it is still missing, and it appears that there is some smoke coming thru the timing cover where its cracked a little bit, my buddy broke the thing tryin to take it off, and theres a chunk missing and there is some smoke coming from that hole, and that seems to be where that ticking/tapping noise is coming from, so timing cover is coming back off, rechecking timing again, and i guess we will see what happens from there...

Originally posted by bloodyangel1
it appears that there is some smoke coming thru the timing cover where its cracked a little bit, my buddy broke the thing tryin to take it off, and theres a chunk missing and there is some smoke coming from that hole, and that seems to be where that ticking/tapping noise is coming from, so timing cover is coming back off, rechecking timing again, and i guess we will see what happens from there...

:twitch

Do you think it might be the timing cover vibrating against something moving in there? Like a belt or pulley? Hot plastic will smoke. (EDIT: Much like I suspect your mom might have done while pregnant with you.) Perhaps this is only you and your buddy's fine craftmanship self-clearancing.

:shrug


Keep at it, though. There's only so much you can fuck up, and if you've already destroyed the valves the first day on the road, odds are, hopefully, in your favor.

/me says prayer for another poor 2GNT.

i swear im not meant to drive my car, i went to make sure the IAT was tight in the intake because it sounds like a vac leak somewhere, so i turn it and it just keeps turning, and the whole thing just pops right out with the threads still inside the manifold, i dont know how im gonna fix that one without having to buy some special tool to get them out because im sick of forking over money on this thing, its a money pit i swear it is, im almost about to junk the damn thing its pissing me off so much, i dont know what to do anymore, im out of ideas as to whats wrong, and have no money to take it to a shop to get it fixed, and i know no reputable mechanics who could actually FIX it, not make it worse...:shrug :puke

You have worse luck that Driggs.

Told ya, should have listened to me and brought it to a shop in the first place.

Trust me though, every1 has bad luck with their car, you just have to keep trucking with it.

Pull the Throttle body off, and drill out the holes and retap them, put some new bolts in and you will be fine.

Originally posted by eclipse982nrRST
Pull the Throttle body off, and drill out the holes and retap them, put some new bolts in and you will be fine.

its actually just the IAT that lost the threads, i bought a new one, and hope i can get the threads out of the hole on the intake, and put the new one right back in the hole, the hole on the intake is fine i do believe. i am rechecking the timing again, it might have went off a tiny bit when i started the car, so we shall see what tomorrow brings...