Anyone got some tips on how to change my spark plugs? I already looked at the how-to on the 2gnt site, but was wondering if there's anything else I should know? This will be my first time doing it. Should the car be hot, warm, or cold? Also, if the new stock heat range (BKR6E-11) plugs don't work well, can I still got back to my used BKR5E-11? Basically, is it ok to take out and reuse the same plug? Thanks.

i dunno about tips reusing the same plug is cool as long as it was workin properly before hand. i dunno how to gap either plug i just open them up and stick them in

dam those wires on tight, thats all i know...

Engine should be STONE COLD and make sure you put Anti Sieze on the plug threads before you install them.

Tips:

- Make sure that the spark plug socket you have has a rubber top to it, and that it is log enough to fit down the hole. Not to mention the right size, most kit's come with the wrong size.

- once you have loosened the plug, do most of the turning with your hand, avoid using any tools, expecially power tools.

- if you want to re-use the plugs you have, it's alot of work, expecially when new ones only cost like $2 each.

- reusing wires shouldn't be a problem, although i would advise you sanding down the connections once every 20k miles, and replacing the wires ever 50k.

- as mentioned above, use the jelly seal, most auto part stores sell it, it makes a huge difference.

- I would also advise taking a towel and wiping around the plug holes, and 1/2" inside them to get any grime out.

- when putting the plugs back in, make sure you thread them in using your fingers, if you come across any resistance early, back them out and start over again.

- and last but not least when you get the plugs in to a point that feels pritty tight, turn it another 1/4 turn, unless you have a torque rench, then there is a specif number to hit.

97' Eclipse RS (kinda)

Present mods:
HRC stage III turbo kit (12 psi street, 25 psi track)
HKS 2 1/2" cat back exhaust w/burnt cat
16" wheels w/Yokohomo tires (215/40)
420A engine w/ tooled crank, billet crower rods, and 8.5:1 JE pistons
Head ported and polished, 3 angled valve job
Power-stop brakes w/axis pads
Ebachi Pro lowering kit (1.8"
MSD DIS-2 ignition system w/turbo retard

Near Future:
Stand-alone fuel system
550cc injectors, and fuel rail
TEC III fuel/ecu system
17” Hart racing wheels
KYB AGX struts, w/ upgraded anti sway bars
Rear brake conversion (front to rear, Brembo in front)

I LOVE THESE DSMs
Jay-
wakbrd99@aol.com

You guys go through a lot more trouble to do it then I do. I just spend $2.00 for 4 copper NGK's, a $1.00 for a gap tool, and then however much for the wrench and spark plug socket. I take off the wires, pull the plugs, drop in the new ones, and go. I am not saying my method is right but it always works for me. Never concerned myself with anything else.

Pop off the wires, remove the plugs. A socket with a lil rubber grommet in the top will help get the plug out much easier like mentioned above. Thread in the new ones by hand at first then tighten them down and connect the wires back up. A little anti-seize on the plug threads is also a good idea(also mentioned above). With cheap as plug are just buy new ones, no need to bother with the old ones. I too used to use one range hotter plugs(5's) but switched back to stock(6's) last time I changed em. Could i tell a difference? Nope. I say use the heat range that will give ya peace of mind.

I had some trouble trying to re-insert the little rubber 1" sleeve that is suppose to go in the ceramic part of the sparkplug, somehow it was a little too snug to slip into the long plug.

Thanks for the help guys. So I should do it cold, and use antiseize on the threads, and dielectric grease on the wires?

I am putting in new 6 range plugs, I just wanted to have a backup in case the 6 don't work and I have to put in the 5's. Oh ya, is it ok to regap the plugs many times in order to find the right gap? I will probably start off with around 0.040 and work my way down if the idle is bad. So I'll be putting them in, taking them out to regap, and back in. Is that cool?

Also, what's this rubber thing you talk about on the end of the spark plug socket? What does it do? I think the one I have is just a normal socket? Thanks.

The rubber grommet inside the spark plug socket will help grab the spark plug down in the well once you loosen the spark plug to the point it's out of the threads.

Without the rubber grommet inside that socket, you'll have a hell of a time getting that spark plug out of the well.

My method is exactly like Murix's. The reason you do it cold is because that shit will burn you if you dont :) Also I gapped to like .050 the first time and my car started to go wacky that night so I re-gapped to .042 and it works just fine.

definately cold. Dont wanna burn your ish dogg! I always get the plugs with the four prongs instead of one prong that you dont have to gap. Forget the names of em now but I think they are below in the list of stuff on my car....

Speaking of spark plugs... way off topic but I ordered 2 sets of 7's from RRE for 20 bux + 5 shiping... Got them, ....wrong ones, they sent me 5's... So I send them back, another 5 bucks shipping... And then I get them in the mail today... Again they charged me another 5 bucks for freight...15 dollars in shipping on a 20 dollar order of little ol' spark plugs... I have ordered plugs from them in the past, figured they wouldnt screw something like that up, then charge me again in the process. There goes the RRE liscense plate frame.

Have you tried calling RRE about it? See if they can at least split the shipping with you? They're great most of the time, but mistakes do happen. Probably because most 2gnt's go there looking for hotter plugs n/a.

If you don't have a spark plug socket with a grommet, you can always just slip the plug wire back in the hole until it clicks and remove the plug.
And, when putting in the new plugs, make sure you DON"T over tighten them!

-Tony 98'GST

Something not mentioned in this thread about spark plugs is to MAKE SURE that the old plugs you take out have a crush washer - that the crush washer wasn't left in the head. If you leave the crush washers in the head (it is easy to do) your spark plugs will be up too high, probably get a horrible seal, probably not ingite the a/f like it is supposed to... basically bad shit.

And of course... since you've made sure to take out the crush washers with the old spark plugs... make sure the new spark plugs have them.

Uhh do you know if NGK BKR5E-11 or 6E-11 have crush washers on them? Thanks.

socket with a grommet inside or a magnetic one to grab the plug. You can re-use plugs if you clean the carbon off the tips sometimes. I would reccomend changing them though. Use anti-seize on the tips, and don't overtighten them. Also, pull close to the bottom of the plug wire or you can pull the end off the wire and break it off in the wells. Trust me, that's my excuse for having 9mm wires.

all plugs have the crush washer...put it in once and leave it in. gap between .40 and .50...that gap grows as you use your car, these motors aren't too picky about .01 gap difference. this is a real hard thing to screw up.

The reason you change your plugs when the engine is STONE COLD is NOT to keep from burning yourself. IF you try to take out the plugs when the engine is hot, you COULD Pull out the threads in the block and/or just mess them up. ESPECIALLY if it has been a million miles since you last changed your plugs and if the last person (FACTORY)to put them in did NOT use anti sieze on the threads of the plug. Good luck to you.