well i was going to do a compression test on my car today. took out the 1st spark plug and look at it...OIL!! i mean oil to the point that it dripped a few times. WTF!! something always comes up. i didn't check the other plugs cause i didn't want to know, but i probably will anyways. so it's the head gasket isn't it? also, when i get this fixed would it be a good idea to go ahead and get the head ported/polished and 5 angle valve job while i'm at it? thanks

Relax, check your valve cover gasket I would bet the rings around the spark plug welss are what is leaking oil down into the well and onto the sparkplug, a m,uch quicker and cheaper fix than the headgasket

"The fastest draw is when the sword never leaves the scabbard,
The strongest way to block, is never to provoke a blow,
And the cleanest cut is the one withheld."

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All Motor Beast in the Making

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Ported/Polished Intake Manifold, Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads

really? but i just had the valve cover gasket done like 5 months ago. and i don't see any oil around the valve cover just in the spark plug well and bottom and very back of the engine. could the valve cover gasket leaking (pretty much blown) be doing that?

The valve cover gasket might be fine. Around each spark plug well there is a rubber ring around them that prevents oil from leaking into the spark plug well, that is what might be blown. Can you remember if you had those replaced when you had your valve cover gasket changed? Those I beleive are a pretty common problem, I know I had to change some of mine out before.

our valve covers are hard as hell to tighten back on, man. It's more than likely your spark plug grommets and the back of the valve cover isnt tight enuff. Same exact thing happened to me 3 months ago, man. Just dont let it go low on oil, or you will spin your bearings, yo.

I concider those grtommets around the spark plug wells as part of the valve cover gasket.

And when you do the valve cover make sure you use RTV and let it set for 24 hrs. torque the bolts to spec and use some blu elocktite to hold the bolts from loosening up as the motor vibrates.

"The fastest draw is when the sword never leaves the scabbard,
The strongest way to block, is never to provoke a blow,
And the cleanest cut is the one withheld."

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All Motor Beast in the Making

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Ported/Polished Intake Manifold, Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads

then maybe that is the prob. the shop that did it drove my car as soon as they got finished with it and told me i could pick it up. those bitch's! i knew somethng wasn't feelng right about my baby. how hard is it to do yourself? could anyone scan the chiltons manual on this and send'em to me? (no one carries the around here) how much would it cost if i do it? thanks i appreciate it!

do a search for good ole' Corbin's webpage, he has a vfaq on it. It's pretty basic, the circles will run you about $2 each and just unbolt all the bolts there, u may have to softly pry the cover off, change, replace, Corbin has an order to do them in, i just did them in any order, haven't had any problems so far