After a full year of effort, I have finally finished a page that details an engine build from beginning to end:

http://www.2gnt.com/www/corbin/rebuild.html

I will add a link to it on the main 2GNT site when I figure out what my password is. Grab a cup of coffee and read the page through. Let me know if I made any major mistakes. I don't profess to be an expert at engine building, but the page should be a good guide for the average joe. There is some opinion on there and I don't want to argue it. I don't care if your mechanic that has built 1,200 hp engines for 50 years always wipes a dab of peanut butter in each bearing shell before dropping the crankshaft in place. I have made sensible, general recommendations based on my readings and experience. Others will likely have different methods.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
Now with more power and fewer leaks



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

very nice work man... very nice. you are a true asset to this community. thank you.

Somebody needs to publish that.

Nice VC too. I've never seen it before.

Originally posted by tim97rs
very nice work man... very nice. you are a true asset to this community. thank you.

x2 THE reason I thought myself ballsy enough to tackle the turbo project is simply a composite of your contributions. Thanks!

I figure since I cant stop fixing the damn thing, I'll just create more problems to work on. :) The stock pile has begun. Parts PArts PARts PARTs PARTS!!!
I'm a novice listen to what I say and make your own conclusion. If I'm wrong tell me and I will learn. Thanks be to the 2gnt Gods may they grant me turbo and fruits of the Earth. Amen.

Awesome writeup. There is a lot of really good content in there.

My favorite part
"Keep working until your car looks like the one above. If your car isn't green, this might take a while."

Very nice man! It will be very helpful to many including myself.
That valve cover is sweeeet!

you are a god. you get points. this should be stickied. best post ever. period.

mad good karma on you.

One of the best write-ups on this board... EVAR!

thanks Corbin. You're dreamy.

WOW thats awesome! its exactly what i needed. Thank you:thumbsup

corbin good write up. kepp up the hard work.
thanks ben

Good stuff Corbin...Now who or what is the two mound in this picture?

Originally posted by eclipsekaiser
Good stuff Corbin...Now who or what is the two mound in this picture?

Looks like a blanket thrown over a fender or something.

In any case, I think it's time for me to dust off the old "Thanks, Corbin!" JPG and post it up. It's got to be nice to know that, anytime some new guy starts a rebuild, your words will be printed out and covered in greasy fingerprints in the garage.

That write-up obviously took a LOT of time. Excellent work, Corbin. :thumbsup

awesome write-up im sure i could've used that when i did my rebuild, but now i'll have a reference for next time! which hopefully won't be for a while, but who knows

Thanks As always brother Corbin, YOU ARE THE MAN! BTW that is corbin standing over the engine with an apron on and below the apron you see his jeans and the top of his shoes, and If I know Corbin, and I do, he is wearing a black stained old white under shirt. What say you?

wow, definitely a great write up. I still doubt i will attempt it myself, so I must be sub-retarded or something...lol. But defintely a good source for anyone willing to do their own rebuild! :thumbsup

:bowdown

I must say you look like Joe Sakic from the Colorado Avalanche. Anyways, that is an amazing write up. Thank you. How long did that take by the way? Also that price chart you had maybe have a total? You always are doing awesome things and recording them. Thanks.


Lily @ DSMR
Lily @ Car Domain

Very nice Corbin, the only thign i would change is the method by which you plasti-gauged. Plastig gage the crank then check the crank clearance. re-assemble the crank then deal with the rod bearing clearances.

Reason being is that many peopel are going to install piston 1 and the crank has a good chance to disturbed when they go to torque the rod bolts. The person also may have the instinct to turn the crank when accessing the rod bolts to torque then down.

Just my .02, good job though

Terry

Nice write up I hope a lotta people read this before they get into it. My best suggestion if you want to save money but still want to make sure you don't screw up is to pull the engine yourself and have a shop assemble the engine which is what my dumbass should have done :( Now I have a built engine that burns a quart per 100 miles and won't pass emissions test.

Also it sez in the write up to buy your pistons after everything has been measured PLEASE do that haha, I bought them b4 and didn't do any measurements just popped the pistons in with all the standard size stuff.

Anyway great writeup

awesome write up!! just to let you know, i posted a link over at neons.org if thats OK. god, i feel the need to be covered in assmbly lube right now.

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Very nice Corbin, the only thign i would change is the method by which you plasti-gauged. Plastig gage the crank then check the crank clearance. re-assemble the crank then deal with the rod bearing clearances. Reason being is that many peopel are going to install piston 1 and the crank has a good chance to disturbed when they go to torque the rod bolts. The person also may have the instinct to turn the crank when accessing the rod bolts to torque then down. Just my .02, good job though Terry

I agree, but it should read like that already. The crankshaft main bearing measuring should take place in the paragraph prior to the rod bearing measuring. I think you skipped ahead part-way through a paragraph.

Some other answers:

The two mound in that pic sadly is me. I was wearing a 7 year old Structure T-shirt that doesn't fit right and kind of billows out when I lean forward. But, to Kirby's credit, the remainder of the build was completed in a ratty, oil stained "white" undershirt.

I started writing the page over a year ago and have worked on it periodically since then. I waited a couple weeks after finishing the engine, so the cuts and bruises could heal. The mental wounds will last a lifetime though.

I specifically left out the grand total for the project. I shed a little tear every time I even think about that number.


Corbin

'95 ESI-T
Now with more power and fewer leaks



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

In that case sorry for asking the total and inducing shell shock. I will add it up and keep the number to myself. You say you started the page a year ago but I guess what I was asking was how long did it actually take to rebuild the engine/parts/etc.

Edit: I just totaled it up and I don't blame you for not posting the amount :cry


Lily @ DSMR
Lily @ Car Domain

be glad you have only rebuild the engine once corbin. you can x2 that total and then some with some people on here. including me.

Originally posted by grain
rebuild the engine ... x2 ... some people on here. including me.

/me raises hand x(

I totally feel Hades pain about the rebuild! eHighFive! 0_o ;)

How my engine got rebuilt twice without a write-up from Corbin is beyind me. :thumbsup

sweet rightup man, but one thing I still would like to know...how DID you do that valve cover?! that is the hawtness!! :bowdown

Yeah!! I get to be in the 2X's club. I just finished my second rebuild last weekend. So that number can be doubled for me too. Sometimes you have to learn the hardway ... twice.

EDIT: Corbin - did you use a vinyl cutter for those VC letters?

Well, I actually built the engine 3 times:

1. On the page I mention "if the ring ends overlap each other in the cylinder, you have the wrong rings". My buddies at Howell sent me 40 over rings and 20 over pistons. At the time, I didn't know how to decipher the part number to verify this. When I called to question it, they assured me that its ok for the ring ends to overlap. I filed the hell out of those rings before installing them. I finished building the engine, but decided something wasn't right before installing.

2. On the page I mention "If you have a special "long rod" bottom end kit, you will likely have to install spacer rings at the bottom of the oil control ring land". My buddies at Howell also forgot to send me these spacers. There was no mention of them in any paperwork, so I didn't know they were required. I installed the complimentary set of replacement 20 over rings. I installed the engine. It ate oil like crazy and fouled the plugs. While solving this, my ECU took a dump and I killed 3 O2 sensors by filling them with carbon. After buying a beater car and ripping the car apart for two weeks, I figured it out.

3. Re-honed and installed new rings with complimentary spacers (with block in car). Been running well ever since.

I probably spent 4 months collecting parts for the build, 2 months building, and 1 month fixing things.

For the valve cover, I actually ground the whole thing down to bare aluminum. Then I ground and filed the letters off. A layer of silver engine enamel went down first. I "hand-made" the logo in MSPaint, pixel by pixel. The sign shop vectorized it and cut a vinyl mask. I used that to mask off the silver paint before laying down black engine enamel. The final layer was hi-temp clear. Then I cooked everything in the oven to cure it.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
Now with more power and fewer leaks



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

Nice job on the write-up. Wish this was around when I was putting things together.

Tony

That's one good looking motor Corbin. Thanks for this.

Originally posted by WickedESi
That's one good looking motor Corbin. Thanks for this.

X2....

Mikey Likes :) Bookmarked FOREVER!!! :)

Originally posted by Corbin
Well, I actually built the engine 3 times: 1. On the page I mention "if the ring ends overlap each other in the cylinder, you have the wrong rings". My buddies at Howell sent me 40 over rings and 20 over pistons. At the time, I didn't know how to decipher the part number to verify this. When I called to question it, they assured me that its ok for the ring ends to overlap. I filed the hell out of those rings before installing them. I finished building the engine, but decided something wasn't right before installing. 2. On the page I mention "If you have a special "long rod" bottom end kit, you will likely have to install spacer rings at the bottom of the oil control ring land". My buddies at Howell also forgot to send me these spacers. There was no mention of them in any paperwork, so I didn't know they were required. I installed the complimentary set of replacement 20 over rings. I installed the engine. It ate oil like crazy and fouled the plugs. While solving this, my ECU took a dump and I killed 3 O2 sensors by filling them with carbon. After buying a beater car and ripping the car apart for two weeks, I figured it out. 3. Re-honed and installed new rings with complimentary spacers (with block in car). Been running well ever since. I probably spent 4 months collecting parts for the build, 2 months building, and 1 month fixing things. For the valve cover, I actually ground the whole thing down to bare aluminum. Then I ground and filed the letters off. A layer of silver engine enamel went down first. I "hand-made" the logo in MSPaint, pixel by pixel. The sign shop vectorized it and cut a vinyl mask. I used that to mask off the silver paint before laying down black engine enamel. The final layer was hi-temp clear. Then I cooked everything in the oven to cure it. Corbin '95 ESI-T Now with more power and fewer leaks Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

"My buddies at Howell..." Did you steal that line from me??? hahaha

Nice job on the writeup though Corbin. I'm sure it will get alot of use around here :)

WOW. Thanks for the valuable information there. I myself I guess would be considered a retard. I never tore a motor apart or nothing but do have basic knowledge and do my own automotive work I just havent gotton to that part yet. Well actually I havent had the money to buy a whole bunch of new parts like that. But I agree the best post EVER!

DAAAAARRRRRR!!!!!!! I TRY TO REBUILD ENJUN!!!! (sorry special people, i had to do it) AWESOME article man, and great pics. i haven't done a motor since back in my v-8 days and this really sparked my fading memory. now i'm psyched to do my talon this winter!

Great job Corbin! That was pretty thorough.

It would also be good to know how much of an overbore you can go with before the block has to be sleeved or what the maximum overbore is for the 420a.

Currently I'm looking into a long rod setup with a 2.2L stroker crank.