Long story short. A few weeks ago I just got done putting crower stage 2 cams, crane valve springs, PT cruiser lifter/rockers. After that the car ran for 6 hours then stopped. Turned out the belt shredded the rear cover, tensioner pulley bolt broke off. Took head off again today, it looks like cylinders 2,3,4 have bent intake valves and one broken intake valve.

I did a compresion test before i took the head off and got 0 in all 4 cylinders. Now it does not look like cylinder 1 has any bent valves, could it still be bent and loosing compression or is it losing it another way.

Now should I order some new stock valves, new SS valves, or just give it to a machine shop and let them deal with it. I dont mind doing it by myself its just that I dont know if the valve guides are damaged/bad. I do not want to put everything back together and it still not to work and then have to pull the head again for a third time.

Thanks for any help

If you've got the money, get the SS valves. If not, I'd replace all intake valves. Those other two may be bent a minute amount, but it'll be enough to cause some issues.

As far as the guides, call a few machine shops and ask their opinions. I think they'd be fine, but I don't know much about that subject.

on mine it was the idler pulley that went, but anyways all the valves are gonna be bent. you just probably won't be able to tell unless you clean up the valves and seats really good.

Order the SS valves and take it to a shop. The shop is gonna install the valves regardless if they are stock or SS without no change in price so you mine as well go with the SS.

Well i was told by the machine shop that if the guides were damaged you will see cracks in it, so I plan on replacing the valves my self now and using standard sized SS valves.

Going through same thing right now. Idler pulley took a shit on me, and ALL valves are bent.

If I remember correctly, the dealer told me to buy some new valves, and guides, and get the head reworked at the valve seats. Other than that, he said that there was no need to get seals if they are not leaking, and that the seals usually dont get damaged from bent valves.

He did recommend what parts NOT to buy from him, and what parts TO BUY FROM HIM. He said DEFINITELY get the idler pulley through the dealership, as well as the tensioner pulley and tensioner IF NEEDED. Anything else as far as valves, head-bolts, guides and seals can be bought elsewhere for cheaper.

Correct me if I am wrong, I am trying to go on memory here.

Originally posted by 95greenhrcgs
If I remember correctly, the dealer told me to buy some new valves, and guides, and get the head reworked at the valve seats.

Hmm.. well the machine shop i talked to said to just look at the guides, and then if they are fine just to replace the valves and i should be fine.

Anyone else have any insight on this, if new guides are needed and if the head should have any work.

Also, yes I would buy the pulley, tensioner, tensioner pulley from the dealership (fenton dodge is cheap). Otherwise I would not get valves from them, Fenton dodge wanted 550 ish with the discount. I just ordered new SS valves from ERT for 230.