Am I remembering correctly when assuming somebody removed the rods and piston from the motor, while the motor was still in? I want to pull mine to see if and how bad the piston slap is. I dont have a prob pulling them out, its the getting them back in.

Only time I have ever pulled them out, the motor was out and I think I remember needing a ring compressor, or maybe that was another motor.

TIA

You can pull the head, and take the pistons out that way, leaving the crank in.

Getting them back in you will need a ring compressor, and make sure you put the ring gaps in the right spots.

I wouldn't tear apart a motor just for curiosity sake, and I certainly wouldn't re-use bearings.

Exile Racing Technologies
http://www.exileracing.com
Go that way, really fast, if something gets in your way... turn.

I agree with all of the above. That's alot of work. If it runs fine, leave it. I've taken my piston/rods out while the motor was still in, pull the pan and pop them out the top.

remember to mark the pistons so you put them back in the same cylinders. Go ahead and put new rings in it also. If you pull out the pistons and reuse the rings, there is a possibility that they will not reseal.

Cool beans, thanx guys

its a bad idea. The rings won't seal. if you're gonna do it pull the whole motor and hone it with a dingle berry hone before putting in new rings... thats my opinion though

^yea, that's the way we've done it. Leave the motor in, and hone the cylinders, then new rings and bearings. I thought it was actually more convenient that way... until the timing belt crap

So what if I have piston slap? Arent I going to have to bore the cylinders out a little more? I heard something about larger diameter rings, is there any truth to this?

I know this totally goes against me askin about pulling the pistons out while the block is still in. Im just tryin to figure out what I need to do.

Im thinking about running it like this till winter then just pulling the motor but if gets worse and starts to fudge up the rings, then I really screwed the walls.

i wouldn't trust larger diameter rings to hold in all that compression, and as far as if you have piston slap then the cylinders are out of round and you will need to bore it out more, depending on how bad it is, you might just want to get a spare block and start building that up. But as long as this doesn't get a lot worse, and is driveable, i just say go with it and like you said wait till winter, good luck

Originally posted by BlackMagic
i wouldn't trust larger diameter rings to hold in all that compression, and as far as if you have piston slap then the cylinders are out of round and you will need to bore it out more, depending on how bad it is, you might just want to get a spare block and start building that up. But as long as this doesn't get a lot worse, and is driveable, i just say go with it and like you said wait till winter, good luck

Actualy that is not all together accurate. Piston slap does not mean he is out of round. it is normal in some applications.


Dj sorry to hear about your probs, you had it running so well. The only way to really determine the amount of work will be to pull the head and look. remove the pistons and mike the cylinders to check wear. obviously you will be looking for taper and out of round. if you have really good measurements you can deglaze the cylinder and drop in a new piston/rings or just new rings. be sure to measure your piston skirt clearance and ring gap.

If you dont deglaze the cylinder then the rings will not seat correctly and your compression will never be as good as it should be. Excess piston clearance will speed up the wear process and insufficient clearance may cause the piston to sieze in the bore if it expands enough. ring gap is just a critical but you already know this i am sure.

The bottom line is you need to tear it apart and start measuring. Be prepared to pull the block if need be, its not worth cutting corners at that point. Hope for the best


Terry

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon

Originally posted by BlackMagic i wouldn't trust larger diameter rings to hold in all that compression, and as far as if you have piston slap then the cylinders are out of round and you will need to bore it out more, depending on how bad it is, you might just want to get a spare block and start building that up. But as long as this doesn't get a lot worse, and is driveable, i just say go with it and like you said wait till winter, good luck

Actualy that is not all together accurate. Piston slap does not mean he is out of round. it is normal in some applications. Dj sorry to hear about your probs, you had it running so well. The only way to really determine the amount of work will be to pull the head and look. remove the pistons and mike the cylinders to check wear. obviously you will be looking for taper and out of round. if you have really good measurements you can deglaze the cylinder and drop in a new piston/rings or just new rings. be sure to measure your piston skirt clearance and ring gap. If you dont deglaze the cylinder then the rings will not seat correctly and your compression will never be as good as it should be. Excess piston clearance will speed up the wear process and insufficient clearance may cause the piston to sieze in the bore if it expands enough. ring gap is just a critical but you already know this i am sure. The bottom line is you need to tear it apart and start measuring. Be prepared to pull the block if need be, its not worth cutting corners at that point. Hope for the best Terry

Actually, it is still running awesome!! There is absolutley 0 decrease in performance. Its just the damn ticking sound that annoys/worries me.

I did a compression test and it showed 200 197 195 200

stop worrying then, imo...

DJ you have 10.5 CR dont you that seems low. here is some more info if in fact you do have 10.5 CR. If not please disregard and forgive my ignorance :)

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=89568&mode=full

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=4&topic_id=52783&mode=full

DJ has altered his timing to run high compression with turbo. If i recall deej you are -4 (cam degrees) on exhaust only correct? If so that will increase overlap and decrease the compression numbers. To compare compression to other people DJ would need to zero out his cams for the test.

The ticking I am confident is piston slap caused by the forged pistons. Mine will slap untill i boost it once or twice.

If the piston slap bothers you, live with it for another year and drop in a set venolia's. stock piston clearance due to the lack of silicon content in the design of the forged piston. you can pick up a set of pistons fro 570.00 through Exile and rebore the motor to 40 over.
Terry

Does it tick or "slap" all the time or just when the motor is cold? I have Wiseco forged pistons and they slap a little at start up. Once the motor is warmed up it goes away and purrs like a kitten. If it only does it while the motor is cold I wouldn't worry about it too much. From what I understand it's normal for a forged piston to do this. Good luck in whatever you decide to do though. :thumbsup





Oh, you don't like altezza's? Too bad, your gonna get a good look at mine.

You are probably just being paranoid. My JE's will slap a little at anything below 1000F. I went with a 0.0040" piston to cylinder wall clearance (per JE recomendations, but other people said 0.0035"). I think the extra clearance makes it slap at low load. It quiets right down when I put a little load on it and get the EGT's up.

Corbin

'95 ESI-T
Now with more power and fewer leaks



Gimme fuel...Gimme fire...Gimme that which I desire

Well I talked with my machinist and let him hear it and he's 99.9% sure its slap. So I am planning on pulling the motor next weekend. Money isnt a prob, so whatever.

The noise doesnt go away. It quiets a very little at about 2k, but besides that, during idle and underload, its loud as hell. You should here me goin through town early in the morning or late at night, its so loud echoing off the buildings. Its really embarrasing. I think to myself, people think I just slapped a turbo on a ready to die motor, when its the total opposite. I fully prepared myself for boost with cutting no corners.

At start up, it is the loudest obvioulsy, and good god is it loud. My wife said she could here it in the house and all my windows are closed for the A/C, lol.

I was actually looking at them Venolia's, lol. I think thats what I might put in.

Like I said before, if anybody will let me send them a video clip and will host it, I will make a short video so you guys can be my second, third, etc. opinion.

OK, heres the video clip
Hope it worked
You have to scroll down and hit free
then the link is at the bottom of the next page
http://dl3.rapidshare.de/files/3505666/4676246/I3010001.ASF

Yea, thats what mine sounded like when cold, after about 10 minutes of idleing it would be almost completely gone... If its that vid was at operating temp then it might just be time to redo it and either punch it out even bigger or get another block and bore it to use the same pistons you have now... Thats all I know... ima BANME!

Yeah, thats about after 30 mins of driving in about 90 degree weather. Im hopin I just have to bore out and be done with it. I have another project Im playin with (a 240SX)and I wanna dump money into that, but the Eclipse gets my funding first, lol.

Any other thoughts?

Yeah def piston slap there..also should not be that bad after driving that long. Like Terry said, mine is gone after 10 minutes or so once it gets to operating temps. Whoever did the machine work on your motor bored it out just a tad bit to big..But if you look at this way, your motor is ready for some BIG boost haha..