Sup guys.
I just received the oilpan scrapper and baffle from mail.

First first off, I have to do a few things to it before I can install it. all the nuts are not tighten (I do mean all of the bolts and nuts are about 3 cm loose)
No Problem.
Second, all the louvers are not bents (completely flat), but no problem, the seller from crankscraper.com sent me the pic and told me how many degree to bend them.
And finally, the metal part that goes to the block and the oil pan, it's not completely sand down to flat from the drilling/weld/bolts.
So I have to sand them down too.

Other than the above 3 things, their customer service is very good.

Now my question comes into place.
Do I need to get another NEW oil pan gasket? I already bought a new one. but one for the oilpan->scraper & one for the scrapper to block?? is that what you all did?

I thought of using RTV copper gasket, but I worry that will not hold GOOD. I am thinking of
oilpan->thin RTV->gasket->thin RTV->scraper->thin RTV->gasket->thin RTV->block

Whta you guys think? or am I over doing it?
Because I also worry if I do the above (with two gaskets) the oilpan may be too low to the ground!
Please help!
please give me suggestion! Thanks.
Gil

P.S. Also one more thing.
Does the oil baffle you guys got from crank-scraper.com has a spring or some sort at the joints of the flappers?
Thanks. because mine just flips around, no springs, just wondering!
Gil

congrats on your newest purchase! I myself only have the scraper and it is a nice piece of work. I had to grind a bit off of the "fingers" because they hit the crank but otherwise it was well worth the money. As for your question about gaskets, buy this:
permatex high temp rtv silicone gasket maker. comes in a red tube, $3.99 at pep boys. (consider me an advocate for the product. I used that on my oil pan and it holds very very well) feel free to utilize your oil pan gasket since you already bought one. Do this: block > gasket > scraper/baffle assembly > rtv > oil pan *you will NOT have clearance issues* just spread a nice thin bead on the oil pan (on the inside of the bolt holes, not the outside or else you will have a leak!) then place the scraper/baffle assembly on the pan and let it sit for about ten minutes and it will hold it in place. then line up the gasket on the oil pan, bolt it to the block and you're done! dont forget to bolt up the scraper/baffle assembly without the oil pan and check for clearance! you want a minimum of 1 mm between the crank and scraper. good luck!

edit: not sure about the spring...

Thanks alot!
Gil

You will also have to watch out for the oil return line from the turbo... I had to bend part of my unit in order for the bulkhead to clear.

good call!
Thanks, I will double check everything!
Thanks alot guys!
Gil

gilee can you email me that pic of how your suppose to bend your scraper (baldrjo@auburn.edu) or post it here. I'll host it if needed. No-one told me you are suppose to do this, so I just installed it flat, how it came, and had to shave some of it so the crank wouldn't hit.

As for sealing it, I used black RTV on the block side of the scraper, and between the gasket and oil pan (this allows you to take it on and off without worrying about redoing any RTV). I've removed it and installed it three times now will not a single drop leaking.

Originally posted by WickedESi
gilee can you email me that pic of how your suppose to bend your scraper (baldrjo@auburn.edu) or post it here. I'll host it if needed. No-one told me you are suppose to do this, so I just installed it flat, how it came, and had to shave some of it so the crank wouldn't hit. As for sealing it, I used black RTV on the block side of the scraper, and between the gasket and oil pan (this allows you to take it on and off without worrying about redoing any RTV). I've removed it and installed it three times now will not a single drop leaking.

Sup WickedESI, well from what the crankscraper.com told me, it's really straight forward. Just read below and check out the picture for details!

I have circled the louvers in the pic and indicated which row gets which angle. You should bend the louvers upwards towards the scraper frame (when the tray assembly is connected to the frame).



BTW WickedESI, two of you ^^^^ said you guys used the black RTV.
I just bought the ultra Copper RTV gasket maker. (the orange stuff)
Can I use that? or that is no good for oil pan??

also, you mentioned you took your oilpan off 3 times right.
so everytime you took it off, do you have to reseal the scraper and the oil pan, and the scraper to block as well???
Or the scraper and oilpan stay in one piece everything you took it off? and only redo the block to scraper part of RTV??

Thanks man.
I hope the above helps you.
Gil

Hey gilee, sorry for the late response, I forgot about the thread and was just thinking of it a minute ago.

I bought my scraper from suieclipse, and I believe he got them from crankscraper.com. Mine looks differen't than what I can tell from the picture you have. Mine is very simple, just has one arm that sticks out between each of the rods. Do you have another picture of yours?

The black rtv holds the scraper to the motor, and the gasket to the pan, but there is no rtv between the gasket and scraper, so it can come apart w/o having to re-rtv anything.

thats because you got the old scraper. its just that a scraper, not a windage tray and no baffle

^^^^ he answered for me!

And btw, I FINISHED with my rebuilt!!!!
finally!

My first startup at 10:30PM. ran for 5 minutes. at 1500RPM and 3000RPM. no leaks... .cannot wait till tomorrow to test drive!
Gil

Hi Gil,

I apologize for not seeing this post earlier.

The windage tray assembly is shipped attached to the frame with the nuts only finger tight to the first threads (nylocs) because it must be removed immediately by the installer to correctly fit the scraper plate to the rotating assembly (checking clearances). Then it is to be reinstalled and the nuts fully tightened.

Previously we shipped the units completely separated and maybe that is the best way to do it. We thought that by having them together it would help people see how they will fit together in the end.

I apologize for sending yours out with the louvers left unbent. It was really busy that day and we were trying to get them shipped out and I just forgot to do it. It dawned on me that I did that after I had already dropped it off at the Post Office and I wrote to you about it before it arrived. My honest mistake and I don't think any of the others were left undone.

The last part I am very concerned about -- you definitely should _not_ sand the back side of the pressed in studs. That will adversely affect their strength.

I will be making you a replacement and shipping it to you.

The trap doors do not have springs and it is very important to ensure that they can move freely. That lets them react quickly to abrupt lateral surges of the oil. The weight of the doors themselves leaves them normally and loosely closed when the engine is level.

Other items:

The scraper plate by itself is almost the exact thickness of the factory gasket so that it will not affect clearances. You should not use a factory gasket above or below it but rather only RTV. Especially if you install a gasket between the block and scraper you will dramatically open up the clearances between the scraper and rotating assembly and diminish the effectiveness of the scraper.

Aftermarket turbo oil returns should always be installed above the sump oil fill line. The windage trays sit just above this line and it is ideal for the returned oil to enter centered around the edge of the top louvered tray. You could mark this point on the side of the pan with a Sharpie by setting the assembly into it.

Kind regards,

Kevin Johnson

Originally posted by gilee_8
Sup guys. I just received the oilpan scrapper and baffle from mail. First first off, I have to do a few things to it before I can install it. all the nuts are not tighten (I do mean all of the bolts and nuts are about 3 cm loose) No Problem. Second, all the louvers are not bents (completely flat), but no problem, the seller from crankscraper.com sent me the pic and told me how many degree to bend them. And finally, the metal part that goes to the block and the oil pan, it's not completely sand down to flat from the drilling/weld/bolts. So I have to sand them down too. Other than the above 3 things, their customer service is very good. Now my question comes into place. Do I need to get another NEW oil pan gasket? I already bought a new one. but one for the oilpan->scraper & one for the scrapper to block?? is that what you all did? I thought of using RTV copper gasket, but I worry that will not hold GOOD. I am thinking of oilpan->thin RTV->gasket->thin RTV->scraper->thin RTV->gasket->thin RTV->block Whta you guys think? or am I over doing it? Because I also worry if I do the above (with two gaskets) the oilpan may be too low to the ground! Please help! please give me suggestion! Thanks. Gil P.S. Also one more thing. Does the oil baffle you guys got from crank-scraper.com has a spring or some sort at the joints of the flappers? Thanks. because mine just flips around, no springs, just wondering! Gil

I shipped it out yesterday via Express Mail and Gil should receive it today.

Kevin

Originally posted by Kevin_Johnson:
I will be making you a replacement and shipping it to you.

Nice to see a company that takes care of its customers.

Originally posted by Chamuko
Nice to see a company that takes care of its customers.

I second that. Customer satisfaction = better sales! Thanks for sticking around Kevin.

Please, if someone is having installation problems please let us know. I felt bad that I did see this post until months later.

Originally posted by ner947

Originally posted by Chamuko Nice to see a company that takes care of its customers.

I second that. Customer satisfaction = better sales! Thanks for sticking around Kevin.