hey all, well i got my obII hook up to my car but my check engine light came on. heres the scoop
i went to freeze frame then test mode, i choose 7= Cont.Mointor system, then i push send command!
the codes it pop up are ( P0301)Cylinder #1, AND 4(P0304) misfire, also Random misfire detected ( P0300 ). this is the second time i check this test with my OBII because the 1st time it also said System Too Lean ( P0171 ) but the second time it did not right away? i revved it up a bit when i did not see the code System Too Lean, then after a bit my check engine light came on and then the code p0171 System Too Lean ( Bank 1 )? what is going on ? also it wont let me erase the codes because its still there i guess.
what should i check and do to to fix these problems? i also got crane wires 8.5
thanks Michael 99 gs Hrc stage 2

I got misfiring too- in 1 and 2 for me- this sucks... no CEL or nothing- just horrible performance, and horrible gas mileage.... anyone else have problems with misfiring?

Evan B
97 GS
Stamford CT
EvMan2345@aol.com

I'm not terribly familiar w/ what scanner your using but I can tell you from my experience. I have used the Snap-on scanners and when checking codes and erasing codes they will go away. It should take a second for them to reappear if there is a real prob. Also the Snap-on's let us scroll up and down to see the readings of most sensors. We would usually catch a prob before we checked codes(granted it was a fairly obvious prob like misses) If your car starts missing while the scanner is on it, but not when you drive it, then the scanner is not really set-up for that particular OBD-II system. On our test mode usually it makes us start w/ car off and then fill in a bunch of shit off the VIN and car options like A/C or not or Pwr Steering and cranking the wheel back and forth. Mostly to calibrate the scanner and to piss off techs for wasting their time. Hope any of this jibberish helps.

Have you done a compression test lately. I had the same code after my copression test. it went away afterwards.

Check your map sensor voltage under boost. I had those same codes when my HRC Fuel mapper went out. Your car is too lean!

It may be something else, but I doubt it.

I'll say it again...the HRC fuel mapper stinks.

hey jason, how long did yours last? also do you think bill will send me a new one ? i have a 18 gauge wire tap into my map sensor inside my car, but i dont seem to be getting a reading in Volts just mV? also what could i use to hold to wires ground and power to the multimeter ends? so anytime above 0psi i should be at 4.7v or less or more? also how about under 0psi?... what mapper thing should i buy better then the hrc one ?
thanks
Michael 99gs- hrc stage 2

jason, could you explain why also its better to remove the fuel mapper if its clamping at a lower voltage than 4.7? i'm a bit confused on that? also could i drive with or without the mapper as long as i dont boost? also tommorow i'm going to figure out what my hrc mapper is pushing out as volts goes when i have time. also on my obII i can see my map output but i believe its in Hg? what would that convert to 4.7volts?
did you also have the cylinder 1&4 etc as misfire also with system too lean?
thanks
Michael 99gs-hrc stage two with fuel problems

>jason, could you explain why also its better to remove the
>fuel mapper if its clamping at a lower voltage than 4.7?

4.7v is the output at atmospheric pressure. If it clamps at, say 3.7v, it thinks you're getting less air than you actually are, so it provides less fuel. lean. Boom.

i'm
>a bit confused on that? also could i drive with or without
>the mapper as long as i dont boost? also tommorow i'm going

You can drive without the mapper and boost, but i wuldn't do it for months at a stretch. You'll get a nasty jolt when you start to go from vacuum into boost (over ~4.7v)

>to figure out what my hrc mapper is pushing out as volts
>goes when i have time. also on my obII i can see my map
>output but i believe its in Hg? what would that convert to
>4.7volts?

in.Hg = inches Mercury. Our 5 volt MAP sensor hits atmospheric pressure at about 4.9v. So, right about -zero- in.Hg is ~4.8v

>did you also have the cylinder 1&4 etc as misfire also with
>system too lean?
>thanks
>Michael 99gs-hrc stage two with fuel problems

"hey jason, how long did yours last?"


It lasted about a year,...but who knows how much it screwed up before that time before I was aware how badly it worked.

"also do you think bill will send me a new one ? "

Yes, I do. He sent me a new one.

i have a 18 gauge wire tap into my map sensor inside my car, but i "dont seem to be getting a reading in Volts just mV?"

Work with your multimeter. I don't know.

"also what could i use to hold to wires ground and power to the multimeter ends?"


Just strip the hell out of those 18 ga. wires and wrap them to hell to the multimeter ends. You could also get some metal wire (even found from those paper wrapped wires that are used to tie bread loafs in) and wrap the signal wires.

"so anytime above 0psi i should be at 4.7v or less or more?"

Any time above 0 psi, you should be frozen at 4.7 volts ot close to it.

"also how about under 0psi?"

It will range from ~1.0 volts to 4.7 volts.

"what mapper thing should i buy better then the hrc one ?"

VC-1 from Splitsec.com. I don't have one yet. I'm waiting to see when the VC-2 will be ready.

"could you explain why also its better to remove the fuel mapper if its clamping at a lower voltage than 4.7?"

I would prefer to get a jolting fuel cut that won't hurt the internals from being too lean under boost and having my car detonate.

"also could i drive with or without the mapper as long as i dont boost?"

Yes, you could. As long as you don't boost, you won't go above the 4.7 volt threshold requiring max output from your I'm wating for Splisec.com to come out with the new VC-2, or I'll just buy the vc-1 instead. Either way, with a separate power and ground, it's a much better product that the HRC Fuel Mapper. Think about it, that's all SplitSec does is make these electronic devices. They obviously have devised a better product than that little black box thats obviously been siliconed or glued together.

"also tommorow i'm going to figure out what my hrc mapper is pushing out as volts goes when i have time. also on my obII i can see my map output but i believe its in Hg? what would that convert to 4.7volts?

You want a MULTIMETER or some sort of voltage reading device to measure your boosted Map sensor volts. I wouldn'y bother eading a datalogger. It may not convert properly since the Fuel Mapper is already screwing readings up.


did you also have the cylinder 1&4 etc as misfire also with system too lean?

Yes, I did. I knew mycar was running lean beforehand, and when I'd mash the throttle to troubleshoot what the problem was, I'd get a CE light briefly and test the codes. It was a misfire in 3 and 4 for me with the system too lean. Ever since I got a new HRC Fuel mapper from HRC, I've been rich "enough" but I'm still only topping out at ~4.5 voltz, but it still varies all the time to ~4.3. That is NOT good enough!


>jason, could you explain why also its better to remove the
>fuel mapper if its clamping at a lower voltage than 4.7?

Dino explained this. Map sensor voltage goes to your ecu and your ecu in turns sends a corresponding signal to your fuel injectors for a like amount of fuel. If your map sensor voltage is being clamped at a voltage lower than necessary, then your fuel injectors are sending too little fuel. At 4.7 volts, we KNOW that thie map sensor voltage will send maximum fuel voltage to the injectors. At 3.7-4.3, you can probably guess that it's going to send lesser than max voltage to the injectors.

also could i drive with or without
>the mapper as long as i dont boost?

Sure, since you're not really concerned at what amount of fuel is being sent at +4.7 volts. But you still may be a little lean under vacuum if the map sensor voltage is clamped really egregiously.

to everyone that responed thanks for your input! =)
also i just check my voltage from the map sensor which i tap after the solder which i only got a reading in mV 4-11 and no reading in volts, so i called hrc talked to a couple people ( since Bill was out ) and they said, i need to connect my wires to where to hrc mapper connects to the car mapper. Which i did and 1-10 psi 3.98v-4.0max mostly stayed at 3.98v all the time! Problem is that they said, i got to pay for the new hrc mapper at 1st ( which i did ) since they are close tommorow and i need it asap, and they will credit my account after i send back the old one after they test it etc? what gives? well i know for sure is that it clamps no more then 4.0v so i for sure will get my money back!
about the cylinder misfires, i changed my spark plugs today to the 1 heat range colder gap .030 and after trying to erase the codes on my labtop after i changed the plugs it did not go away. till after 10 mins of 5psi boosting then the check engine light went away, and when i checked for error codes when i got home the misfire codes were all gone =) yuppp but the system too lean was still there =(
thanks
Michael 99gs-t'd

I'm glad you found the problem.

Now, take off the mapper and send it to them. I went a week before without any FCD. I'd rather get the irritating fuel cut than lean conditions. Moreover, you're going to get a MAP sensor too high or some other related MAP sensor error with the FCD unhooked. Don't worry about it. It's better than the misfire and lean codes.


Also, check the new FCD once you get it. It'll probably be better, but not much better. Today my new-er HRC FCD hit a record ~4.6 volts in clamping. (woohoo) You can't believe the difference in power you get when you get your max fuel output.

BTW, I just got an email from SplitSec. They said the VC-2 is still a couple weeks away from completion. They estimate about a $80 price tag. Well worth avoiding lean conditions and an ERRATIC clamping value every time you turn on the damn car.

Jason, is it ok to just cut the wires close to where i have the solder connect together on the map car sensor? so when i get my new hrc mapper i can have some extra wiring ( from the old hrc mapper ) and just solder it to those wires? do you get what i'm saying? or do i have to remove the wires completly where its solders? and reconnect the two main wires? does it matter?....
also the new vc-2 from splitsec are you going to buy it asap? if so i wanna see your feedback on it before i buy it. also what is the big difference between vc-1 and the new vc-2? maybe i just mess this?
thanks
Michael

>Jason, is it ok to just cut the wires close to where i have
>the solder connect together on the map car sensor? so when i
>get my new hrc mapper i can have some extra wiring ( from
>the old hrc mapper ) and just solder it to those wires? do
>you get what i'm saying? or do i have to remove the wires
>completly where its solders? and reconnect the two main
>wires? does it matter?....

I did what you're proposing. I cut it off closer to the black box (and further away from the map sensor wiring) and actually put in some quick disconnects at that point as well. It doesn't matter where you sever the wires though. Since I've mangled those wires so many times with bad FCD's (I've actually had to buy a new harness for the map sensor), I've learned my lesson and left plenty of the HRC wiring left on the map sensor wiring for easy access in the future.

>also the new vc-2 from splitsec are you going to buy it
>asap? if so i wanna see your feedback on it before i buy it.
>also what is the big difference between vc-1 and the new
>vc-2? maybe i just mess this?

I think the VC-1 is a completely reliable and adequate product from what I hear.(10x better than the HRC FCD) Apparently, from speaking to one of the people at SplitSec, he said the voltage clamping occurs at about 4.7-4.8 and they call it a "soft clamp" meaning there will be some amount of variance in the clamping.

As for me, I am going to wait just a bit to see when (and if) they deliver on the VC-2 b/c apparently it will cost the same and deliver a "hard clamp" meaning that there will be NO variance in the voltage clamp amount, and moreover, the voltage will be _ADJUSTABLE_, which also sounds nice. The price for the VC-2 is apparently going to be around the same as the VC-1 was priced. I don't know how long I'll wait though. Since I won't do much boosting in the winter, I'll probably wait till the spring before I order whichever of the votlage clamps are available.(although they said it's only a "couple of weeks" away)

(Heh), if they call a slight variance of the VC-1 a "soft clamp," what would they call the random roulette of the HRC fuel mapper?

haha dont get me wrong hrc has done a great job on there turbo kit for your cars, but my hrc mapper went bad within a month. i have no clue what they would call the hrc mapper ...hehe ... also i take it you did not solder the new hrc mapper to the wiring u have correct? or did u ? do they make quick disconnects for that small gauge wiring? i did not see this at radio shack last time or maybe i was not looking hehe.. what color are they red, blue? what gauge wiring is the hrc mapper or should i use to connect?... it looks about 18 gauge?
i think you answered my question before, but our stock mapper is rated at 5v max right? and the hrc mapper range goes what to what? low to high? to be safe?
thanks
Michael

>haha dont get me wrong hrc has done a great job on there
>turbo kit for your cars, but my hrc mapper went bad within a
>month. i have no clue what they would call the hrc mapper
>...hehe ... also i take it you did not solder the new hrc
>mapper to the wiring u have correct? or did u ?

I did solder the FCD to the map sensor wiring. I used quick disconnects on the HRC FCD wiring further up the red and balck wires.

do they make
>quick disconnects for that small gauge wiring? i did not see
>this at radio shack last time or maybe i was not looking
>hehe.. what color are they red, blue?

I saw em there. They were a translucent pink if I remember correctly.

what gauge wiring is
>the hrc mapper or should i use to connect?... it looks about
>18 gauge?

I think it's about 16-20ga. (18's probably right)


>i think you answered my question before, but our stock
>mapper is rated at 5v max right?

right.

and the hrc mapper range
>goes what to what? low to high? to be safe?

Range....?? there's no range. It CLAMPS the voltage at 4.7 (is SUPPOSED to) volts...in other words, so the voltage can go no higher!

hey jason, i removed the hrc mapper but when i was ready to go to work my car would not stay on? it turns on but will die? also i tried to butt connect my hrc mapper back so atleast i can go to work, car starts stays on, but idles funny vacuum is at 10 my map volts is 3.7v or so at idle? also my car is like grumbling sorta smells also like im running rich?
do i have to solder it back to my map wires to run correct again?
btw it ran fine yesterday
thanks
Michael 99gs- hrc

hey no worries i got it running fine for now
thanks
Mike

i got my new hrc mapper today and my friend said when i was driving it said 4.5v, but then when i was coming home tonight i was boosting 1-10psi because to check my voltage and it was only going from 3.87-3.95v ONLY? my old hrc mapper went from 3.97-4vmax. with my old hrc mapper 3.97-4max my check engine light came on and my car said, system too lean? but with my new hrc mapper 3.87-3.95v my check engine light is off and no error code which i can find on my obII system with my computer?.... also i notice when i got home my vacuum was only 17-16 when the car was in park at idle?
btw- car runs fine etc
thanks Michael 99gs-'d hrc stage 2

Dude...I told you the fuel mapper changes everytime you start the car. It sucks.

There's nothing you can do about it, save for get a better product (vc-1).

I wouldn't boost that high until you get a product that works.

dame dude, i think i'm going to order the vc-1 soon so it will hold at 4.7v what is the website and phone # to call? also when i order is there specs i got to tell them or do i just say i want the vc-1 that holds at 4.7v ? is also 2 wires same setup to do?
thanks
Michael

No, go to splitsec.com and look up the VC-1. There's only one.

hey jason, i was looking at there website about the wiring and there are 4 wires to hook up. red for ignition so for power, then black for battary which is ground or does this hook up to the postive and ground of the map sensor?...also two other wires one to go to the air flow sensro input of the ecu which i believe is the blue/red then the second which goes to the airflow sensor output which is the blue wire? does this hook up direct to the ecu? i'm a bit lost since the hrc mapper has only two wires to hook up... also when i order it i got to tell them i want to vc-1 that produces 4.7v?
thanks
michael 99gs-t'd