I'm doing a full rebuild and I bought the Crane street cams (0010), I also have the SBI rocker arms and the Eaton Lash adjusters.

Now my question is, am I going to have to run a solid lifter with that camshaft? My buddy had to run a solid lifter in his but he has a 4g63. I didn't think I had to but correct me if I am wrong. TIA.

umm.. what is a solid lifter? just run the sbi lifter/lash adjusters and call it a day

Originally posted by bedlam32570
I'm doing a full rebuild and I bought the Crane street cams (0010), I also have the SBI rocker arms and the Eaton Lash adjusters. Now my question is, am I going to have to run a solid lifter with that camshaft? My buddy had to run a solid lifter in his but he has a 4g63. I didn't think I had to but correct me if I am wrong. TIA.

No, that's like the smallest aftermarket cam you can buy. I could understand using solid lifters if you had a large cam (0018 or bigger?) and spinning 8k+.

I didn't know they made solid lifters for cars, how would you adjust them? On a pushrod V8, you adjust the rocker arm. Would there be an adjustment on the lifter itself?

yea i don't think you can use solid lifters on our cars, at least i've never heard of it, our lifters run off oil pressure, so how would you make them solid?

SBI Lifters.

Originally posted by BlackMagic
yea i don't think you can use solid lifters on our cars, at least i've never heard of it, our lifters run off oil pressure, so how would you make them solid?

Pushrod motor lifters run off oil pressure also. They still make solid lifters, I just didn't know they had them for our cars. They're solid and don't provided any type of movement. When parts get worn, you have to manuall adjust them.

So, SBI's are solid, or are you just recommending them?

u can... but its def not needed! plus too much work... you'd have to plug up some of the oil galleys... not a good thing :)


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02:19:28pm InFiNiT3> lol no shit
02:19:39pm DarkOne> and a funnel.
02:19:45pm grain> have to get the ky with warming
02:20:00pm InFiNiT3> i feel sorry for the 18 y/o (one was 17 one 18) his name was plaster'd all over the news n news paper
02:20:06pm DarkOne> Yeah, has to be warming.
02:20:06pm BuckNutty> jus spit on it and it'll go in
02:20:17pm InFiNiT3> aye the ky w/ warming any good>
02:20:45pm grain> never tryed it
02:20:50pm grain> i applyed for a sample on thier website
02:20:56pm BuckNutty> evan didn't complain any
02:20:56pm BuckNutty> it felt nice
02:20:57pm InFiNiT3> lol
02:21:01pm grain> i use id glide whne she dries
02:21:06pm grain> good stuff
02:21:45pm InFiNiT3> thnx for the new sig guys
02:21:45pm DarkOne> Are we still talking about fucking dead chicks?

well you can't buy any that I know of but my friend made his. I didn't think I was going to have to but he kept saying I would have to if we were degreeing my cams and I told him no. He still seems to think I do but oh well. It's not like it's going to be anything above what it is now. I just bought all the aftermarket stuff cause it was either the same price or close to it. Thanks guys.

Originally posted by bedlam32570
...he kept saying I would have to if we were degreeing my cams and I told him no. He still seems to think I do but oh well...

Tell him he's a moron. With the #10 cams, just run stock springs & lifters, and get a set of adjustable cam gears.

Originally posted by cougar694u
Tell him he's a moron. With the #10 cams, just run stock springs & lifters, and get a set of adjustable cam gears.

Lol. I'm the "moron" in question. Have you ever degreed cams before? You can't use hydraulic lifters (or lash adjusters in this case) while degreeing cams. I wasn't telling him to use solid lifters while the engine is running. I told him that a solid lifter would be needed to degree the cams. If a hydraulic adjuster is used, then as the cam turns to the point where the valve would open slightly (like, say .050") the adjuster compresses instead of opening the valve. Which would give a skewed reading on the degree wheel when the valves finally did read .050".
I always suggest degreeing aftermarket cams, especially on an engine that has had surface machine work performed (head surface, block surface, decking, etc.) to ensure that the cams match the specs intended by the manufacturer. If the specs don't match the cam card, then adjustable cam gears would be needed to correct them.
You would suggest adjustable cam gears, but not suggest degreeing the cams?

Originally posted by 300dollarGSX
Lol. I'm the "moron" in question.

Hi Moron :wavy lol!

It is my fault for not reading throughly. But, on such a mild cam it's not gonna be much of an issue. I haven't read any issues with cams being off. I believe our ecu allows for +/- 3* to be off and no one's complained that their cam is off. Now, adjustable cam gears have been known to be slightly off. With the stock cam gears, everything should line up correctly.

Like I said, just buy the cam, use stock valve train, and be done. If you use adjustable gears, line them up with the stockers and mark them so you know how they'll need to line up.

Originally posted by cougar694u
Hi Moron :wavy lol! It is my fault for not reading throughly. But, on such a mild cam it's not gonna be much of an issue. I haven't read any issues with cams being off. I believe our ecu allows for +/- 3* to be off and no one's complained that their cam is off. Now, adjustable cam gears have been known to be slightly off. With the stock cam gears, everything should line up correctly. Like I said, just buy the cam, use stock valve train, and be done. If you use adjustable gears, line them up with the stockers and mark them so you know how they'll need to line up.

The problem is, a DOHC engine's valvtrain geometry is altered after certain types of machine work have been performed. Surfacing the head or block moves the camshafts closer to the crankshaft. Meaning, even the stock cam timing has been changed. More material shaved off means more change in cam timing. As long as all the specs are withing the limits, then everything will work, but that doesn't necessarily mean that everything is optimum. Isn't the whole point of changing cams to make more power? These cams will provide an increase of, what, 20 or so horsepower when installed per the cam card (just a guess)? If they are a few degrees off, then we are slightly defeating the purpose. It's possible that installing them without degreeing them to the specs will cost 4 or 5 of the horsepower that would have been gained. Then again, it's also possible that the engine would like the change and provide 4 or 5 more than the original specs would have. My point is, efficiency makes horsepower and effeciency demands precision. I would much rather know that the cams were installed correctly and precisely than assume that they were. Then we could adjust the cams while on a dyno to see what settings make improvements and what settings don't.

After all that, he doesn't have adjustable gears anyway. We have no choice but to install them as is.

Originally posted by bedlam32570
well you can't buy any that I know of but my friend made his. I didn't think I was going to have to but he kept saying I would have to if we were degreeing my cams and I told him no. He still seems to think I do but oh well. It's not like it's going to be anything above what it is now. I just bought all the aftermarket stuff cause it was either the same price or close to it. Thanks guys.

if you notice, i did state here that it was for degreeing. i know i didn't on my very first post.

http://www.crco.com/

Contact them for a couple of solid lifters. The cost for a degree kit (2 lifters) is $70. The lifters are for the 4G63, but they can be modified to fit a 420a.