my question is how does the + side get ran? is there a junction block of some kind in the engine bay that you run the stock + wires to and then have that split off to the + wire going to the trunk?

if no junction block, do you run new thick white wires (the ones that come form the fuse box to the battery) all the way back, or what?

i dont wnat to spend $100+ bucks from summit when i can get it done from a local battery shop for half that, so no telin me to buy a relocation kit!

basicly, how are all the stock + wires ran to the battery?

Originally posted by tim97rs
my question is how does the + side get ran? is there a junction block of some kind in the engine bay that you run the stock + wires to and then have that split off to the + wire going to the trunk? if no junction block, do you run new thick white wires (the ones that come form the fuse box to the battery) all the way back, or what? i dont wnat to spend $100+ bucks from summit when i can get it done from a local battery shop for half that, so no telin me to buy a relocation kit! basicly, how are all the stock + wires ran to the battery?

One thing you could do is make your own junction block (or buy one), run the positive from the battery to this junction block, and have the original positive lead connected to that junction block.

It's easy for me to visualize because I have a starter solenoid that the positive connects directly to. I never messed with it on my 2gnt.

i think a junction block would be best. im sure there are people ho have just extended the wires all the way back, but if i were to do this...id go with the block

I say junction block, because if you're going to make it NHRA legal, you'll need a single cutoff switch. And I know common practice is to remove the negative battery cable when working on the car, but most drag cars I've paid attention to have the switch interrupting the positive side. :shrug

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/projectbuild/155_0307_valnt_nhra_legal/
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/projectbuild/155_0307_valnt_nhra_legal/index1.html
http://www.nedra.com/rulebook.html#8_5

"All vehicles except OEM must incorporate a master electrical disconnect switch that must disable all electrical functions.

This sounds like there are a lot of high-current disconnect switches involved, but there need not be. Often, there is one main 'safety' contactor in the battery pack circuit that is operated from more than one location. Conversely, you may opt for several separate large-current disconnects to fulfill the requirements.

Although there is no requirement in the rules, it is very smart to have a way to easily disconnect both the positive and negative leads of the battery pack."

Hell I just relocated my battery in the back actually. I attached a 2 gauge wire from the battery in the trunk, throught the cabin, through the firewall, and hooked that up to the positive cables in the hood using a metal long nut that attaches all the extra wires getting power from the battery (in line fuel pump, fuel pump rewire mod, etc...). I have no clue what a junction block is so hence the reason there's none there :). No problems so far. My battery voltage base on my apexi tt reads the same readings so I am guessing all is good :thumbsup

how does the kit from summit (or anyone else) do it?

Originally posted by tim97rs
how does the kit from summit (or anyone else) do it?

I ran mine to a juntion box (I made mine myself and used a hvac thermostat clear housing box available at home depot) located under the console, for power tapping usage other than the fuse box for switchs and other bullshit located in the general area (all lines off the juntion box I made sure had inline fuses) I used a male stud for side mount/top mount battery conversions which also left me with 2 places to bolt up other smaller gauge wires.

I hooked a regular end to the one in the juntion box going to the engine bay and put it on the male stud (just like normal) Then I ran it through the firewall then to the postive terminal/wires already in the stock setup then. Putting an end (male stud for side mount/top mount battery conversions) on my wire from the inside and hooking the stock one to it(just like normal). I used a plastic grey box (painted black) I found in the hvac section also of home depot cut a hole on each end for the wires/connections to sit in when it was closed. I screwed the back side of the box with a self tapping screw to the drivers side strut tower put wires in place and put the top on.

I then took the other male stud for side mount/top mount battery conversions and cleaned the strut tower to metal where I was mounting it then drilled through and bolted it in place. Then I hooked up the ground from the front to that point.All done. It seemed like alot of work but it wasn't once I had all the pieces I needed. all of which cost me 15 dollars for the ends (screws/bolts I had) and 12 for both of the boxs at home depot. The wire you need to run front to back cost
me 16 dollars at advance (2 gauge).

Tim I have the summit kit and I had to get a junction block from some car audio place. I got 120 amp fuse to go inbetween the line and the battery. Just to be sure that it did not ground out and melt my car down.

Someone should take some pics of their junction block and where they ran wires to atleast give the eyes some candy to look at. Sometimes you can have a great write-up or how-to made, but without pics to help justify where and what your talking about sometimes gets people lost...unless you catch on really good about electrical stuff. Just a thought.


http://www.dsmregistry.com/detail.php?carid=1030

^^ good idea! pics would be awesome, since whenever i say 'junction block" around here, people look at my and just scratch thier heads...

Originally posted by tim97rs
^^ good idea! pics would be awesome, since whenever i say 'junction block" around here, people look at my and just scratch thier heads...

lol its just a fancy word for this man(see link). It can consist of anything really. The emergency kill switch is considered a juntion block. Any place really that you have a bolted connection is a junction in the wires path. I will get pics of what I did or well whats left of it. I sold my relocation box and e kill stuff to silvernt.
http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=427386&prmenbr=361



Heres my e-kill switch it is also considered a juntion block.

Originally posted by madhatter210

Originally posted by tim97rswhenever i say 'junction block" around here, people look at my and just scratch thier heads...

lol its just a fancy word :owned
The emergency kill switch is considered a juntion block. :owned
Heres my e-kill switch it is also considered a juntion block. :owned

Sometimes... you guys scare me. :twitch

Claw's been on a lot of medication lately ;)

Originally posted by thedawg

Originally posted by madhatter210

Originally posted by tim97rswhenever i say 'junction block" around here, people look at my and just scratch thier heads...

lol its just a fancy word :owned The emergency kill switch is considered a juntion block. :owned Heres my e-kill switch it is also considered a juntion block. :owned

Sometimes... you guys scare me. :twitch

yea we are very scary on a budget for relocating the battery hrmm

16.99 vs 169.99 although yours is much more effective and proper dawg I think I'll save the extra 100 + or so and use a more hidden back yard approach really doing the same thing. Letting factory protection and inline fuses on any aux lines due there job. Nice try on the owning though. lol to dawg on his fancy pants

All I'm saying is an emergency kill switch is not a junction box 'hatter. :rolleyes

Since some people have apparently never seen one, I posted the first pic I found.

Mine's a POS block of plastic from radioshack, hidden under the dash, and I wouldnt be caught dead with ricey ass gold terminals all over the place like that ^^^.
Edit- But it IS fused, and is NOT a buncha wires all bolted to one terminal.

Originally posted by thedawg
All I'm saying is an emergency kill switch is not a junction box hatter.
Since some people have apparently never seen one, I posted the first pic I found.Mine's a POS block of plastic from radioshack, hidden under the dash, and I wouldnt be caught dead with ricey ass gold terminals all over the place like that ^^^.
Edit- But it IS fused, and is NOT a buncha wires all bolted to one terminal.

yea I know but it is a junction and how it is mounted( you can't leave the open positive ends just sitting there so there housed, kinda making it a juntion box or housing. I shall call you spongebob fancy pants now
Edit: yea I agree fuses are good where needed.Any aux had inline fuses and as for the main it ran from point A to B to point C with no possibilty of grounding out.So what would be the difference, say if you grounded out the battery in its stock location/setup vs have it grounded out 10 foot farther back in different place.