I am doing the timing belt on my car. I cant get the bolts that hold the engine mount brcaket to the engine out. I mean I have them loosened right off, but I cant pull them out they hit the frame (unibody) of the car and there is no way to pull them out. CXheck out these pics.

http://community.webshots.com/scripts/editPhotos.fcgi?action=viewall&albumID=322558922

Do I cut them? or how do I get them out?

You need to undo the front motor mount and place a jack under the oilpan with a 2x4 (or something like it) make sure you dont f*ck up the oilpan, and hoist the motor up a bit. this will allow the clearance you need.





Nick
97RS

First off the link doesn't work. Now about those bolts, you need to lift the engine up as far as possible and work them out, they do come out just not very easily. I take out the one on the right top first, jack up the engine, remove the one on the left by pulling it up, and then loosing the lines crossing in front of the last bolt, and pulling it out between the lines. I have done this 20-30 times in the last 4 months so it does work. Good luck, and if you need I can get you some pictures of what I mean.

Thanks guys, I will try what you said, it seems like a total bitch though, I have tried jacking it up, the motor mount was out, but you say jack it up all the way as high as it will go? I wil have to take my strut bar off then I guess because it will stop it from going up too high.

Thanks
again.

Dan

I just dealed with that today. ^^^^^^ they are right. You just have to unbolt the front and back MM's and jack the motor up. They do come out and go back in. DO NOT CUT THEM!!!!!!

Well... I forget who said it on here WAY back when, but I thought it was a great idea & it worx even better...

Do what they're saying ^^^^^^^ on the top 2x bolts & it'll be no prob. Then, what I did & was recommended, drop the engine as low as it'll go & drill a pilot hole through your wheel well right over the bolt head to make sure your dead on. Then get a 1" circle bit & drill the sucker out. After your done w/ the timing belt, just spray around the edges w/ black primer (so no rust) & go 2 AutoZone 2 their "Help Section" & get their 1" Black Grommet aka Rubber Plug.

********** IMPORTANT **********

The reason Y U drop the engine as low as it'll go is so you don't f*ck up & put a hole in your compressed lines... aka the same f*cking lines that R stopping you from taking the bolts out in the 1st place!

********** IMPORTANT **********

Amazingly, I hit the bolt "dead on" on my 1st try... thing was I didn't know it & drilled a nice lil (very small) crater in it (notta prob as it's HARD ASS Metal but did winde up replacing the bolt). Anyways, I could prob change my entire timing belt & other sh*t in ~2hrs if I work quickly just cause of this lil tid bit.

P.S.
Just go to AutoZone & make sure it's a 1" plug, I'm pretty sure... just make sure the plug will fit the hole (heh, sounds ronchy ;) )

You don't need to unbolt your Front & Rear mounts,
- J

This technique seems very good, I might try it some time. For this t-belt job though I have never taken off any other mounts, and seem to be able to do it in under 4 hours screwing around and taking breaks :).

Originally posted by J
Well... I forget who said it on here WAY back when, but I thought it was a great idea & it worx even better... Do what they're saying ^^^^^^^ on the top 2x bolts & it'll be no prob. Then, what I did & was recommended, drop the engine as low as it'll go & drill a pilot hole through your wheel well right over the bolt head to make sure your dead on. Then get a 1" circle bit & drill the sucker out. After your done w/ the timing belt, just spray around the edges w/ black primer (so no rust) & go 2 AutoZone 2 their "Help Section" & get their 1" Black Grommet aka Rubber Plug. ********** IMPORTANT ********** The reason Y U drop the engine as low as it'll go is so you don't f*ck up & put a hole in your compressed lines... aka the same f*cking lines that R stopping you from taking the bolts out in the 1st place! ********** IMPORTANT ********** Amazingly, I hit the bolt "dead on" on my 1st try... thing was I didn't know it & drilled a nice lil (very small) crater in it (notta prob as it's HARD ASS Metal but did winde up replacing the bolt). Anyways, I could prob change my entire timing belt & other sh*t in ~2hrs if I work quickly just cause of this lil tid bit. P.S. Just go to AutoZone & make sure it's a 1" plug, I'm pretty sure... just make sure the plug will fit the hole (heh, sounds ronchy ;) ) You don't need to unbolt your Front & Rear mounts, - J

That's cause you didn't change your water pump, now DID YOU?!?!?!?!? lol, j/k... Everything takes longer the 1st time :)

Freaking *@#*&#^^%@#($^*&@#&^($ timing belt cover @#(*&@$%$@#^#%

I know it's better to keep your timing belt cover on so no sand or sh*t gets in there, but damn it... it's a PIA! I did actually put it back on, but will prob leave it off here in a lil bit when I do my 140k+ timing belt.

Glad to help,
- J :censored

no need for drilling... best way i found...get the bottom one out first...drop engine as far as possible.... its almost best to have all three engine mounts out... passenger side, front one, and the rear one.... then jack it up as far as you can...get the one out closest to the engine...then loosen the other one and remove the mount with the bolt still in it.... its alot easier than trying to get just the bolt out
doug

yea that's the thing I realized too. Don't try to take the bolt out by itself, try to take the whole engine mount out with the bolt still in it. You have to fight it for a while tho'

I do similar but I remove the motor mounts and there is a 1" or so black plug near where you are supposed to drill a hole and just use the hole that is already provided you just need to move the motor around/back and forth,etc..
of course I have an avenger and Im not sure if the eclipse has the same hole

The eclipse does have the same hole, but I've never been able to get it to line up enough to get the bolt out through it.

I just cut my own 2" hole, and I've never been happier. Timing belt swaps are simple as possible now.

Yeah, makes life 10x easier... just can't stress that you get the plug/grommet FIRST so you drill the right size hole. Can't remember, either 1" or 1.5" if using what's @ AutoZone.

- J

i know you guys say just drill a hole and ya know im sure it's easier, i've been thru this just as many times as you guys. Loosen up the hard lines and there is a concave area in the fender well that is designed to allow the bolt to snake thru. Honestly if i could meet the designer of that side motor mount area i would kick him in the F*cking balls so hard he'd talk like a girl for the rest of his life!.
BTW dan when you put that mount back in with the hole there do you reinsert the mount with the bolt in or do you wait until the mount is situated then reinsert the bolt?

Originally posted by totaleklipse97
Honestly if i could meet the designer of that side motor mount area i would kick him in the F*cking balls so hard he'd talk like a girl for the rest of his life!.

LOL


Nick
97RS

Originally posted by Collente

Originally posted by totaleklipse97 Honestly if i could meet the designer of that side motor mount area i would kick him in the F*cking balls so hard he'd talk like a girl for the rest of his life!.

LOL Nick 97RS

ROFLMAO

MiztahfooLish...
'95 RS (16.72 @ 84 mph) *wheel hop sucks!* 97-99 front/rear end conversion, Autometer
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and rear strut braces, 4 ga. ground wire kit, Powerslot brake rotors, 17"x7.5" Rota Subzero
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