i got the car runiing the other day. I have just installed brand new MAP, upstream and downstream o2 sensors, and new spark plugs. When I start the car I have to keep my foot on the gas at about 1500 rpm or so until it warms up then it will idle smooth and without my help.

Once driving the car seems fine (I'm driving directly from the TB, no piping from turbo) untill I try to pull past about 4000 rpm. Then it feels like its hitting the rev limiter?!?!? All the sensors that were throwing codes I replaced and its still doing the same thing. The spark plugs are new also with just about 5 miles on them. the base/electrode is pig rich black and the part that curves around is WHITE (like paper white). My EGT probe also is melted after it was reading temps upwards of 800 degrees celcius under no boost normal driving as I gave the car more throttle before it started to melt!

I have no clue as to what this can be. Need help.

How could your egt probe melt.

Come on now It reads up to 1600 degrees F.

How come you have no pipint from the compressor housing to the TB.

This is stupid. How is the turbo supposed to push air in the throttle bosy it theres no piping.

I hope i'm missing something here. if not, like i said....stupidity.

ok if i toss out all the illogical bullshit i say
map sensor isn't hooked up correctly
injectors aren't firing properly
check your dummy codes.

Jon

1997 Eclipse RS
1998 Dodge Dakota Sport
12.671 @ 111.660 1.586 60' 5/28/04

www.haiokuracing.com

shaun> i'm sayin', bro!

do you already have a missing link?

Do you have an AFC installed? This is really similar to what mine did when I had a wire come loose on the afc. Later on I had similar problem when my computer went out.

I don't have a AFC. I will put up picks of the EGT probe and plugs tomorrow.

There is no stupidity here. I removed the turbo to TB piping because I wasn't sure about the fuel delivery under boost seeing as it was running a shitty idle. I didnt want to drive the car under boost and break something else.

I had the exact same problem. Check the wiring to your map sensor. Mine did this when i put in an afc and forgot to hook up the wire for the map sensor. That should def. be your problem.

the 4000rpm limit says MAP sensor.

Actually I had this problem once and I'm still non-turbo. You're gonna think I'm crazy but stick with me here.

Coolant Temp Sensor. Not your thermometer, but your actual coolant temp sensor. There are 2 sensors directly under your thermostat housing, one is the thermometer (small plug) which tells your temp gauge what to read, the larger plug is your coolant temp sensor which tells your ECU that your car is warmed up.

Why would this screw up your car? If your coolant temp sensor has gone out your computer will think your car is still cold (as in extremely cold) and keep the idle high and pour gas into the engine. My car would barely idle and felt just like the rev limiter at 4k rpm. Now, let me tell you the shit I went through.

I couldn't drive the car at all it was so bad. So I just started replacing shit hoping to fix the problem (I live out in the middle of fucking nowhere). I replaced the MAP, IAC, TPS, ITS, O2, Spark plugs, Plug wires, Ignition, Fuel Injectors, and FPR.....none of it worked. So after $500 worth of blood, sweat, tears, and parts I finally just limped it to a shop about 20 miles away. Fucking Coolant Temp Sensor. $50 part.


Get that checked before you go nuts and don't waste your money and time like I did.

Thanks Guys! I will check the coolant temp sensor this afternoon.

Originally posted by a_miller_76
Actually I had this problem once and I'm still non-turbo. You're gonna think I'm crazy but stick with me here. Coolant Temp Sensor. Not your thermometer, but your actual coolant temp sensor. There are 2 sensors directly under your thermostat housing, one is the thermometer (small plug) which tells your temp gauge what to read, the larger plug is your coolant temp sensor which tells your ECU that your car is warmed up. Why would this screw up your car? If your coolant temp sensor has gone out your computer will think your car is still cold (as in extremely cold) and keep the idle high and pour gas into the engine. My car would barely idle and felt just like the rev limiter at 4k rpm. Now, let me tell you the shit I went through. I couldn't drive the car at all it was so bad. So I just started replacing shit hoping to fix the problem (I live out in the middle of fucking nowhere). I replaced the MAP, IAC, TPS, ITS, O2, Spark plugs, Plug wires, Ignition, Fuel Injectors, and FPR.....none of it worked. So after $500 worth of blood, sweat, tears, and parts I finally just limped it to a shop about 20 miles away. Fucking Coolant Temp Sensor. $50 part. Get that checked before you go nuts and don't waste your money and time like I did.

would there be a cel code for this?

Originally posted by a_miller_76
Actually I had this problem once and I'm still non-turbo. You're gonna think I'm crazy but stick with me here. Coolant Temp Sensor. Not your thermometer, but your actual coolant temp sensor. There are 2 sensors directly under your thermostat housing, one is the thermometer (small plug) which tells your temp gauge what to read, the larger plug is your coolant temp sensor which tells your ECU that your car is warmed up. Why would this screw up your car? If your coolant temp sensor has gone out your computer will think your car is still cold (as in extremely cold) and keep the idle high and pour gas into the engine. My car would barely idle and felt just like the rev limiter at 4k rpm. Now, let me tell you the shit I went through. I couldn't drive the car at all it was so bad. So I just started replacing shit hoping to fix the problem (I live out in the middle of fucking nowhere). I replaced the MAP, IAC, TPS, ITS, O2, Spark plugs, Plug wires, Ignition, Fuel Injectors, and FPR.....none of it worked. So after $500 worth of blood, sweat, tears, and parts I finally just limped it to a shop about 20 miles away. Fucking Coolant Temp Sensor. $50 part. Get that checked before you go nuts and don't waste your money and time like I did.

did your cat get plugged? cuz a bad ECT sensor will make it run rich, which can melt the cat element, which will plug up and seem like a rev limit... i JUST realized this after posting in the ECT sensor thread

Originally posted by 97whitESi
the 4000rpm limit says MAP sensor.

yea thats what i was thinkin too, the ECU puts the motor in a limp mode, if i remember right.

replace the map and coolant temp sensor like miller said

if you have a datalogger, you can see if it might be the coolant temp sensor just by seeing if the values the logger put out are logical.

i dunno bout the coolant temp sensor, i could still rev above 4k rpm when mine was bad, i just got shitty gas mileage

More likely a MAP problem. The lean condition and 4000RPM revlimit would indicate such.