Ok Im hooking up my techedge today. I would like to at the very least have RPM as well as the wideband. Do I just tap(solder) into the PCM wire for RPM? And what else should I go for on this,it can read 4 things I believe.

Which one did you get?

the WB02A, I got it from James (suieclipse)

ask him? :shrug

Originally posted by RxR_Eclipse
Ok Im hooking up my techedge today. I would like to at the very least have RPM as well as the wideband. Do I just tap(solder) into the PCM wire for RPM? And what else should I go for on this,it can read 4 things I believe.

you can simply tap into your ecu's rpm wire and run it to the spot on your techedge that says rpm. you need to hook up the "error pointing down input" to a ground for the rpm and any other signal to work.

There are 3 user inputs and 3 temp inputs run by thermalcouplers. To use the termal couplers, youll have to get thermal coupler wire. The user inputs are a 0 to 5 volt signal. I bought a GM 3bar map sensor which has a 0 to 5 volt output on it so I could log boost. An autometer fuel pressure guage (purple wire) is a 0 to 5 volt signal from the sending unit, you can hook that directly up to the techedge as well. The oil pressure works in the same fashion as the fuel pressure gauge.

Youll need to get the software from techedge's website along with the modules for the whatever 0 to 5 volt inputs you have. You can download the modules from their website also.

Thanks James, Looks like I have to wait anyway, no one around here has a o2 bung/18m nut for me to hook it up. :( O well Im on vacation for the next week anyway.

Well hooked it up, but still can't get it to log :(. Keep getting an error saying it cannot connect to the unit. Im going to try to someother configerations tomorrow.

Originally posted by RxR_Eclipse
Thanks James, Looks like I have to wait anyway, no one around here has a o2 bung/18m nut for me to hook it up. :( O well Im on vacation for the next week anyway.

go to a local muffler shop...they should have one for a coupel bucks or try NAPA, they carry them also.

Edit: junk yard pipe will have one too...take a hacksaw with you.

Terry

I ended up getting one for $2.50 from a nut and bolt supplier out in the middle of nowhere. Napa couldn't even find the part # for an o2 bung. I think when I asked them they thought I was kidding, I then showed them the sensor they the guy was like 'ohhhh I see'. He then proceded to looke thru like 10 books, aftermarket and thier brand, and could not find what I wanted. Losers.

Anyway, I still can't get this thing to connect to the unit. I tried to recalibrate the sensor (free air) and it asks me if I have it plugged in. Yet the LED's are showing normal operation. *shrug* if my luck was not bad, then I would have no luck at all.

Napa seems like a hit or miss when it comes to common sense or knowledge. You shouldnot have to calibrate the sensor if you have the 7057 or 6066 type. You can see the larger conn on the sensor itself...that has a calibration resistor in it. try reloading the software into your laptop. Since this is James old one then it should be good. If no communication then email Techedge. remember they are almost 16hour difference so you wil have to wait for a response. If you wait till 9pm at night you can call Aussieland but be prepared for a phone bill.

terry

If I were you, i would check the cable going from the techedge to the sensor. Get a ohm meter and ensure that there is a signal on each end to ensure the signal is making it through. Did you yank on the cable at all?

9 times out of 10, it ends up being a bad cable. The unit worked the day I took it out of the car and I also packaged it nicely.

I have no doubts the unit is working. The red/green/amber led's all indicate that they are working correctly. I just got your cable yestday james, and it give me the same error on the cable that a guy built for me a couple of day's ago. (I did not ask him to, he is what I would call a 'super nerd' and did it for fun). Either way I tried with both cables and get the same message.
The message is
"Cannot disable Trace Mode"

cannot disable trace mode? wtf does that mean. ive never seen that error before.

i ment the cable going from the techedge to the wideband sensor. not the techedge to the computer.

yea i couln't even find it on the yahoo groups. It now looks like the laptop is connecting but still get this weird freaking message.

ummm

id send an email to peter and ask him.

the software you are using is software you downlaoded from their website?

Yea I got the software off the techedge site. I actualy downloaded the old version and tried it too. Same message.

I'll check the cable frome th unit to the sensor now. See if one wire came loose or something. The unit is warming up just fine though. So I think it connecting ok.

I also get this from the calibration software.

the unit was already calbrated.

does the sensor heat up? it should if its working properly.

touch the sensor and see if its hot. if its not, then there is something wrong with the cable

Im checking the cable right now to see if its bad.

ok found the problem I hope. The red wire to the harness was loose.

which red wire?

well repaired the wire and still get the message :(. Im going email techedge. Like I said before, if I did not have bad luck then I would not have any luck at all.

Here is a picture of the wire.

test each wire for connectivity

They all check out now. Still getting the error. I did find some info on 'trace mode' in the readme.txt that comes with the logger.

Version 2.0d (8/23/04)
- Fixed a problem where the Ignore EEPROM logging option was not correctly
re-enabling trace mode after clicking the "Review" data button.

Ive never seen that stuff so i have no idea what you are talking about.

is the sensor heating up?

the sensor is heating uphe stated it like 5 posts ago. sounds liek the error is from the logging portion of the board. the little black button in the main unit is not stuck down is it?

Almost sounds like the Te is stuck in "review log mode" look at the logging instruction for how to cancel logging mode.

Terry

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
the sensor is heating uphe stated it like 5 posts ago. sounds liek the error is from the logging portion of the board. the little black button in the main unit is not stuck down is it? Almost sounds like the Te is stuck in "review log mode" look at the logging instruction for how to cancel logging mode. Terry

he said the unit was warming up. not specifically the sensor which is why i asked again.

there is no black button installed on the board because i never installed because i run a car computer and didn't need the onboard logging.

Yes the sensor is heating up. The unit seems to be working normaly. The LED's indicate this. Although I still cannot get it to communicate with my laptop. Im going to run a line into my desktop and see if it can see the unit and log. This will tell me if its the serial card I got.

might I suggest you go out and get a serial to usb adapter.

thats what i used on it. I never tried the straight serial connection with that thing.

I went and got the usb ot serial. Seems to be working fine now. Although Im getting a message that say's "heater PID" in the a/f window? Any ideas here? @ Idle im getting a a/f of 14.7x-14.8x. I have not had a chance to get her on the road. Still hooking up the RPM wire. Anyway wanted to give an update. Pics to come.

Well I think somethign is for sure wrong here. Take a look at this reading I just took.
I see an status of 'heater pid' and the a/f is really not moving at all when i know it is runnign rich/lean. :(

I have no idea what heater pid is.

However, the wideband units don't move like a narrow band does. Thats why its more acurate bud. Looks like you got it work, great job!

The techedge unit is very accurate and doesn't go high and low as fast as an idiot light gauge. trust me

take it for a drive, youll see it work :)

Yeah the WB will not lean cycle like a normal narrow band o2..Looking at your graph, were you actually driving, or just reving the motor? If you were just reving, then everthing is just fine. If you were just driving normal, in closed loop, then still everything is fine. Now if you were going WOT, then something is wrong hehe..But as far as I can tell, your normal o2 sensor is doing it's job rather well at keeping a stoich A/F mix in closed loop.

That log was a quick jog around the block after the unit warmed up. If this looks right to you guys then I'll trust you all! This will def rock for when my MS gets here. Hopefully soon ;). I have all the parts to put that together now.

Well looks like this sensor has crapped out, I tried some logs with long pulls in 3rd/4th and it only moved from like 14.87 - 14.81 Egts were approching 1600 so I know it is not working correctly. I contacted Peter @ techedge and he said the errors Im getting are from a sensor that is on the brink of dying. Not a big deal since a new sensor is only $38.11 + $6.95 s&h.

Here is a log. See where it is not moving at all thru the wot runs. ;(

Bummer. You bought this unit new? They should replace the Sensor for you. If you bought it used then it sounds like you got screwed.

Not really, I got it from suieclipse, either way it was a hell of a deal so I'm not complaining.

Did they explain to you what the "heater PID" light meant? I'm wondering if the heater in the sensor burned out, and is giving false readings..just a thought..seems like you got it all taken care of though..Once you get it working, you will love having a wideband :)

I think it means the heater is not heating enough. He did not explaine what it exactly means (if you have read the techedge site you would see that the error is rather generic). I read for what seemed like a lifetime on the techedge yahoo groups(which sucks) and found quite a few other people who had bad/dying sensors and these same errors.

Im not in a real hurry right now for it anyway, MrSlick still has not sent my MS yet. *paitently waiting :)*.