OK here goes...I've recently been having problems with the car jerking at above 5000rpm. It would throw code 11 for Intermittent loss of Camshaft Position Sensor or Crankshaft Position Sensor. Today when I was driving it all of a sudden code 11 came up twice and code 43 and the tach would violently jerk all over the place. So, I finally got around to changing the crank sensor today and now immediately when I start the car up, it throws code 54 for No cam signal at PCM. The car idles fine and it drives in and out of my garage fine. What's the deal? I thought that the car wouldn't start without a signal from the cam position sensor. Please help!

Originally posted by sonikbewm
I thought that the car wouldn't start without a signal from the cam position sensor. Please help!

97+ supposedly will. It falls back to batch firing the injectors and limits timing, but it'll idle. How's the cam sensor look? How's that harness?

Originally posted by DarkOne
97+ supposedly will. It falls back to batch firing the injectors and limits timing, but it'll idle. How's the cam sensor look? How's that harness?

Well...my car is a '95. The sensor looks fine. One thing that I noticed was that it was taking a couple times cranking the car to get it to start. I unplugged the cam sensor and then plugged it back in and it started right up without any problems. It's still throwing the code though. I'm tempted to take it out for a drive but I know the stupid thing will leave me stranded if I do.

OK here's something interesting. I just put my old crank sensor back in and I don't get "No cam signal to PCM" code. If the crank sensor is bad, would that throw a code for the cam sensor? I'm completely confused here since with that other crank sensor I was getting no signal from the cam sensor.

Anyone? I really need help so I can get this stupid thing running right soon!

Originally posted by sonikbewm
OK here's something interesting. I just put my old crank sensor back in and I don't get "No cam signal to PCM" code. If the crank sensor is bad, would that throw a code for the cam sensor? I'm completely confused here since with that other crank sensor I was getting no signal from the cam sensor.

Well, do you have any lights after putting the old crank sensor in? How does it run?

I thought the cam/crank sensor CEL light code was the same. So in other words, it could be either.

Off the wall possiblity, but I'll give it a shot. Maybe the old crank sensor wasn't the problem. Maybe the cam sensor is. Maybe you put a bad crank sensor in and that threw it the light.

What about changing the cam sensor, leaving the old crank sensor in?

I dunno, I'm just trying to brainstorm with you.

Brian

Originally posted by ForceFed420a
Well, do you have any lights after putting the old crank sensor in? How does it run? I thought the cam/crank sensor CEL light code was the same. So in other words, it could be either.

No CEL's when I put my old crank sensor back in. The cam/crank sensor CEL is the same for intermittent loss but when I had the other crank sensor in, I would immediately get a "No cam signal to the PCM" CEL. With my old crank sensor in, I wouldn't get the CEL. I'm picking up a brand new crank sensor and the new wiring for it tomorrow so I guess we'll see if that fixes it or not.

i had this same exact prob before. Wanna know what it was, craziest thing. One of the prongs inside the connector on the cam sensor was bent down and not making contact and that was it. Sounds too simple but worth a look.

Originally posted by Onnoffplayer
i had this same exact prob before. Wanna know what it was, craziest thing. One of the prongs inside the connector on the cam sensor was bent down and not making contact and that was it. Sounds too simple but worth a look.

I'll go check that out. Thanks for the suggestion.

Alright...it was the crank sensor. The car is running like a crazy bastard again.

Originally posted by sonikbewm
Alright...it was the crank sensor. The car is running like a crazy bastard again.

Is that "crazy bastard" in a good way? Or bad? Did you follow the harness to check for any fraying or melted insulation? The Neon had some melted insulation on that harness and, upon making right turns under power, it would contact the block, short the system, and the engine would die. You could slip it in neutral and restart without losing too much speed, but it sucked. Just some more info if you're still fuckered up.

Running like a crazy bastard means that I keep losing traction at 60mph now. :P Soldering in the new wire pigtail was the gayest thing that I have ever done.