Well it looks like my valve cover gasket is leaking a little bit on the corner where the timing belt is. I guess I am going to have to change the gasket out. Can anyone give me some info on valve cover gaskets. Maybe someone who has had the same problem?

DAVE_FL
97 T-GS
HRC stage 2

Orlando DSM www.orl.dsm.org
DAVE99@cfl.rr.com

I think mine is doing the same thing (just opposite side)

Star Stage II (BB)
HKS Type-1 BOV
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Apexi-N1 Catback
Test pipe
Autometer Boost Gauge
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Full body graphics
Brembo d/s rotors

Sitting in my house!!
CFDF Clutch



"Thats not an FMIC, it's um... my alum radiator"
http://www.ichibanracing.com

Easy fix... unbolt the valve cover(unhook the coil pack connector and anythign else in the way) take off the old gasket scape clean the head and valve cover matting surfaces. Put some RTV on the head, put the gasket down, ut some more RTV on top of the gasket. Put the valve cover down and tighten slightly. Let the car sit for 24 hours(idealy) then tighten down the valve cover bolt hand tight. You do NOT want to over tighten these.

"The fastest draw is when the sword never leaves the scabbard,
The strongest way to block, is never to provoke a blow,
And the cleanest cut is the one withheld."

Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All Motor Beast in the Making

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads

I have oil coming out of my breather. My buddy who used to have the HRC Stage 2 had the same problem. He told me to just replace the breather valve because thats what he did. He said that after the replacement, it never leaked again. Has anyone else had this happen and replace the breather valve?


Star Stage 1 E-trim and stock exhaust
14.91 @ 93.94 with 3psi of boost
60ft-2.21
330ft-6.27
1/8-9.62
Best 60ft ever- 2.21

dont forget to replace the spark plug grommets too! AND, make sure your careful when putting valve cover back on...cause those grommets move just a lil' bit and u will have leaky leaky oil in your plugs!

The whole gasket set is $35-$40 at tha ####n dealersh#t, btw.


"Kaptain Mike"
http://www.heavenz-not-0verflowing.com/KaptainKillgore/index.htm
theblueghost@hotmail.com
1997 RS

LAST EDITED ON 11-Oct-01 AT 04:16 PM (PST)

Hey Michael, how come you do not want to overtighten the valve cover bolts? I just tightened them with a socket cus I thought I had a leak, but it ended up not being from the valve cover gasket...

OH and should I loosen them and then retighten by hand??

eclipse804@hotmail.com
http://www.importvenom.com
Import Venom - Parts and Performance

If you over tighten them they will snap off in the head, trust me. Just go until they stop and then a little bit more.




http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

All Motor Beast in need of MAJOR TUNING

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3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

But I tighten with a socket, not by hand right?

eclipse804@hotmail.com
http://www.importvenom.com
Import Venom - Parts and Performance

BUY A TORQUE WRENCH!

There is no reason not to torque down those bolts to their proper spec. It is just common sense.

And as for the leak....I have never seen a 420a that doesn't leak there. It isn't that bad, so its not really worth the hassle. If you really want to fix it, it will cost some $$ for the gasket set, but it isn't a hard job.
Mine has been doing it since I bought the car in '99.


-Jeff
1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T'd

http://gs.dsmpower.com

I do have a torque wrench but what do I torque them to?

eclipse804@hotmail.com
http://www.importvenom.com
Import Venom - Parts and Performance

Sorry, I didn't actually mean to tighten with yoru fingers. I always use hand tight to mean not a lot of torque. on the wrench. Those bolts aren't that strong, like 420A said you can snap them off... believe me this SUCKS!!!!!! But it's more a matter of preserving the gasket. Not as much of a big deal with a good rubber gasket, but if you are working with a cork gasket, and over tighten... say bye bye and start over. But if you crush the gasket and split it, you will get a leak a lot sooner than you would have otherwise. I have a torque wrench and the torquw specs on the valve cover and oil pan have been too high and I over tightened going to the proper torque spec. Just feelit out. Tight enough but not too tight... (Sorry I know that sounds like a Grandma's descriptiuon of her secret recipe)

"The fastest draw is when the sword never leaves the scabbard,
The strongest way to block, is never to provoke a blow,
And the cleanest cut is the one withheld."

Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All Motor Beast in the Making

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads

I don't have my shop manual in front of me, but it is in there in the engine section (duh:P)

Or check out Darkone's website for the downloadable version and check the specs there. Always torque down to the shop specs. That is what techs and mechanics do, and that is what you should do as well. Head over to Autozone or something and pick up a Chiltons if you have to. 16 bucks and well worth it.


-Jeff
1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-T'd

http://gs.dsmpower.com