Okay, I finally searched about this and found so many different things being said its unbelievable, lol.
I am running the 440's now, and after getting the sfmu all hooked up, i set my idle pressure at 15psi and it still idles liek shit. I am going to have to install my afc i guess now to tune the idle down some to get it semi-smooth i suppose. heres the thing im wodnering...
a couple of threads i read, people said set the fuel pressure real low at idle to like 10psi. Then they said its not good because your static pressure and while boosting is going to be low when you should be tuning on the rich side a little bit to be safe. Then I read also about setting idle pressure at 18-24psi with the 440's. even then, im going to get even more of shitty idle and always dirty balls rich hardcore. which option should i go with? tune idle pressure to 10-15psi and run about 60psi fuel pressure while boosting and use the s-afc to help get the idle smoothed out a little or tune idle to 18-24psi withe sfmu and run hardcore rich all the time without the safc??
i searched and found many good things, but not an indefinate answer on which would be better to do. since there is no real way i found out to get a smooth idle with 440's and the sfmu without an afc, what should i do? thanks in advance!

oh ya, i have oil pressure now too :)

15psi is too low.. get it up to about 20.. its rich, but better than 15.

it would be better for you to run rich, sell the afc and use the money for something else.

also.. will a mod move this? its more related to the turbo section.

This is a hot topic right now ... check the turbo forum, someone else has the same issue. Why are you guys trying to use 440's?? Is it b/c of the boost level you are trying to achieve? To me, it just makes sense to go with the 310cc injectors, it makes life a lot more simple, but of course you will be limited to about 13-15lbs of boost. If you're looking to go for higher boost I think the concensus seems to be the 8-injector setup. I know, I know, you probably don't want to hear that.

i am trying to get it running to get it tuned in for 18psi in the spring after the break in. james (siueclipse) says maybe my idle is soo jumpy is because i could have a vac leak or my TPS is shitting out on me. very possible and i am going to look at these tonight when i get home from work.

Yeah ... that's true too, you could have a vac leak. Do you have cruise control?? It's a common place to develop a leak without even really realizing it.

Mike start with 22 psi of pressure and -10% on the 1000rpm range for AFC. the rest of the range should be +/- 4%. That will get you in the ballparl once you have you vac leak fixed. Install a vac gauge or boost gauge and see what you vac is at idle. shouldbe stable and around -20. if its jumpy yo have a valve issue, low it means you have leak.

Terry

terry, i dont know if i have a vac leak or not yet. i think last year i got a CEL for my TPS, but i forget. it was making my idle real jumpy sometimes. maybe that is the reason for my shitty idle now. i will set my idle pressure tonight @ 20psi and see how it is and check for leaks everywhere. i dont have the afc installed yet because i dont know how to mess with the settings on it and before i go installing that thing, i need to research it more so i dont fuck something obviously, lol. do i need to adjsut the bleed valve or anything on the sfmu? all i did was adjust the static pressure on the top of the sfmu...
thanks guys

oh ya, and 20hg's of vac?? i have 8.6 pistons, i thought it was supposed to be around 10-12hg's of vac at idle?

well without the AFC it will be very hard to get a smooth idle and those injectors. Hook up the AFC and get it set to 0 across the board. it is very easy to set up and tune but the instructions are not really to good if you learn hands on. once you get it hooked up and powered you will have a better feel of it. (obviously dont run the car without it set up or 0'ed out. as for 20hg......I live in america man and deal with SAE measurments...lol speak in psi.... -20 psi is real good. -22psi is damn near perfect. I dont have my conversion calculators going right now otherwise i would answer that for you. the more vac you have at idle the better.

I will be off work thursday-sunday if you want to give me a ring

Terry

Okay here is a pic of the disk/ring/spring i was using in the sfmu.
The disk/spring/ring i was using is circled in YELLOW.
Now, the GREEN circled disk/spring/ring are the ones I THINK I should be using. Let me know if I am correct or incorrect please...
also, the sizes are marked if you couldnt tell.
my fuel setup is the 440's, sfmu and walbro intank also.
when i messed with my idle pressure, i ran it from 10psi to 22psi and it was shaky the whole time either way, i did a vac leak test today and found no leaks either. let me know people, thanks....

PIC:
>

woops, picture didnt show up, lets try this again...
yellow circles are what i am using now...
green circles is what i THINK i should be using...

PIC:

last try to get it bigger damnit, lol ....

here is a big pic damnit!!!!

copy and paste this shit :

when you run that low of line pressure it effects the spray pattern of the injectors

megasquirt and a wideband homie

420a's idle vac should be between -18 and -20 hg on your boost gauge, if not you have a vac leak.

ohh wow. ok
for the 440's use the second largest disk. with the largest ring. and small black spring.
then set idle to about 20psi. and lean out your low rpm settings little by little until the car runs right. then get to a dyno.
if you run it with no safc you will get crappy idle and will burn out your o2 sensors quick. i know htere is people out there that do it but the afc will help you tune it better.
as far as increasing time you will not have a problem with this unless you are leaning the injectors a ton. if you are worried about this get a datalogger.
I ran 16psi with that exact same set up with no problems.

Originally posted by whodatt1
ohh wow. ok for the 440's use the second largest disk. with the largest ring. and small black spring. then set idle to about 20psi. and lean out your low rpm settings little by little until the car runs right. then get to a dyno. if you run it with no safc you will get crappy idle and will burn out your o2 sensors quick. i know htere is people out there that do it but the afc will help you tune it better. as far as increasing time you will not have a problem with this unless you are leaning the injectors a ton. if you are worried about this get a datalogger. I ran 16psi with that exact same set up with no problems.

yup thats the way mike!

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon

Originally posted by whodatt1 ohh wow. ok for the 440's use the second largest disk. with the largest ring. and small black spring. then set idle to about 20psi. and lean out your low rpm settings little by little until the car runs right. then get to a dyno. if you run it with no safc you will get crappy idle and will burn out your o2 sensors quick. i know htere is people out there that do it but the afc will help you tune it better. as far as increasing time you will not have a problem with this unless you are leaning the injectors a ton. if you are worried about this get a datalogger. I ran 16psi with that exact same set up with no problems.

yup thats the way mike!

well holy shit balls then!
i was using the 2.75" ring with the 2.2" disk...
i did that combo because i thought the disk had to slide "into" the ring. tomorrow i guess i will use the 2nd biggest disk (2.7") and the largest ring (3.25") and then set my idle pressure around 20-22psi. then install the afc over the weekend and call TERRY and ask how to set it up for fine tuning until i get dyno time after i break in the motor :) ... so now, with that disk/ring combo, i should have a "somewhat" decent idle? and like i stated above, i found zero vac leaks. all except for the line going to my boost gauge was leaking a tad bit.

whoa...
i should be using the 2.7" disk with the 3.25" ring?
thats going to idle me good at 20psi of fuel pressure??

i did a vac leak test today and found no leaks at all...
i guess maybe using that combo of disk/ring in the sfmu (circled in yellow) gave me a shaky idle!?

when i searched, i found with using 440's, to use the disk/ring circled in GREEN. am i wrong again here, lol !?

I ran with the 440's for about 9 months with a few cel's for lean/rich conditions-datalogger is a must to do this, otherwise its guesswork at best. Short-term fuel trims were around -4 most of the time. My safc was used only for lo-throttle settings and most of the "altering" was done in the lower rpm levels-for example: 1000 rpm= -34, 1600rpm=-25, etc. These were NOT my settings! Every engine and fuel system has different needs. Again, datalogging is a must. Also, some brands idle better than others due to factory calibration and different spray patterns. With my RC's, idle f/p was 15. I have heard of some being able to idle these injectors w/out an safc-just adjusting base fuel pressure, but I had no luck here. Don't give up- get a datalogger and tune it!