I am planning( still debating turbo though )on all motor. I would just go threw archives about this but they are no longer available.

But I am wondering what would need to be done for an all motor project. Milling the head, what specs are the min & max? Head Gaskets, type and size to raise compression? What type of springs and retainers, rockers, etc,are available? Should I just get the High Performance Top End Kit that Howell has or what? What could or should I do to the bottom end. This is still going to be my daily driver and weakend track runner, just to keep that in mind. So any help would be great guys, Thanks.


Mod List:
-NGK BKR5E-11 Plugs
-Magnecore 8.5 Wires
-AEM CAI(thanx to endless73)
-GS-T Muffler
-Upper Front Strut Bar

Hmm I just wanted to add that it's not a very cost-effective plan, but if you want to do it just to say you're going all motor, then it's cool...a neon at cali speedway bulit all motor ran 14.3 but they are a lot lighter than us (he said it was 2200 pounds, with drag radials). He had cams, ported milled head, msd dis-2, racing headers, intake, full top end built, and some sort of aftermarket computer in his car, plus more I can't think of right now...it made 170 hp to the wheels, but it only made 150 hp before he properly tuned his cam gears on a dyno. It idled crazy though with those cams, and sounded cool, but I'm sure he spent a lot more than the 2 grand you would need to turbo your car stage 1 and get the same power...but that brings up another question of reliability with a turbo kit on stock internals...

eclipse804@hotmail.com
http://www.importvenom.com
Import Venom - Parts and Performance

Thats exactly my reason for the question. For turbo say Stage 1 its about 2000 bucks. But to go stage 2 its about 3000 bucks. But there is alot of goodies to get to go along with the turbo to help it run smooth. If you got a heavy foot like me, you want to think about upgrading your internals. So you figure for a stage 2 + internals your looking at ruffly 3-4k or more. So I am trying to way my opptions on the turbo kit compared to having a friend willing to give me a break in cost on this project, that has years of experience in building and racing cars. So I am trying to gather enuf info on all motor to better prepare a project. So help me out guys. Thanks!!!!!

Mod List:
-NGK BKR5E-11 Plugs
-Magnecore 8.5 Wires
-AEM CAI(thanx to endless73)
-GS-T Muffler
-Upper Front Strut Bar

Okay, A lot of stuff can be done. You need High Compression for all motor power. You can do that 2 different ways.
1. High Compression Pistons.
2. Milling the head.

I am going to be using pistons to raise the compression to 12:1. If you mill the head past .050 the cam gear teeth are not going to line up correctly with the timing belt. If you use pistons to raise the comp, then you don't have this problem. You can get a thinner (.022) copper headgasket from www.headgasket.com that will increase the compression of the motor.

If you want all motor power you need compression, cams, and porting for the best power increase.

There is a lot of info that Michael, Adel and I can give you, plus some other guys on the board that are planning on all motor.
As far as the valve train goes, you can get the Crane Valvesprings and Titanium retainers for $299. These are needed if you spend a lot of time near the redline, like me. Also these are going to lighten the valvetrain, which makes more power. If you have high lift cams then you will need these so you don't break the stock springs. Get cam gears to tune the cams for the most power. The rockers and lifters that we have will be okay but they HAVE been replaced by 3rd Generation lifters and rockers. These will be needed if you plan on using a stand alone engine managment system and raising the redline to 8000+. Take the head to a shop that can do good head work. Get the ports of the head opened up, 5 angle valve job, and the valves replaced with oversized undercut valves. This will raise the compression about 0.4 points and increase the airflow to the engine. With all these upgrades you are going to need all the bolt ons, (I/H/E), you are going to probably need an ignition system to retard the timing a little. You may even want to upsize the injectors so you deliver enough fuel.

If you have anymore questions let us know.








http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

Thanks Bro, thats good info. How much have you spent thus far on your car? And how much HP do you think you have?
Anybody else to add to the subject?

Mod List:
-NGK BKR5E-11 Plugs
-Magnecore 8.5 Wires
-AEM CAI(thanx to endless73)
-GS-T Muffler
-Upper Front Strut Bar

$2100 on the suspension including rims

$390 on cams,intake,exhaust,motor mounts

$750 Clutch

$75 on short shifter and shift kit

Labor done by myself. . . .Priceless!!!!!




http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

Yeah Fast420A pretty much covered it, as far as All Motor. It's not cheap, but no modifications are, at least not the ones worth while. Where do you live? Emissions may come into play... like they do for me. You'll have to either make sure to not get radivcal enough to pass emission or keep some stock parts around to bolt back on when testing time comes(like me :-)) If you do go with milling the head to raise compression(Like I am at first) then you will NEED adjustable cams gears because you'll need to be able to bring the cams back to where they belong. The timing will be slightly off by the time you shave material back off.

And like Kyle said, any more questions just ask.

"Character is doing the right thing when no one is looking."
Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads

Sounds good anybody else?

Mod List:
-NGK BKR5E-11 Plugs
-Magnecore 8.5 Wires
-AEM CAI(thanx to endless73)
-GS-T Muffler
-Upper Front Strut Bar

don't think anyone has tried this, but overobore the cylinders by one or two thousandths and put in dykes rings instead of normal compression rings.

You would NEVER be able to pass emissions, but it should reduce the major source of friction in the engine and give alot more power.

"Keep on charging the enemy, so long as there is life."

Todd Scungio
98 RS
15.711 @ 87.43 MPH
2001 DSM Shootout Winner - NT Class

Modifications: GS-T muffler, Iceman cold air intake, AFX underdrive pulley, Brospeed header, Apexi Super AFC, Extrude Honed intake manifold, KYB AGX shocks, Powerslot front rotors, Porterfield R4S front brake pads, and occationally Mazda RX-7 rims with 225/50VR16 Michelin Pilot SX-GT tires

Well Todd... if I knew what a dykes ring was, the idea may have occured to me???

"Character is doing the right thing when no one is looking."
Michael J. Kulaga e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com
aol IM: MJKulga Website: http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads

dykes ring: A compression piston ring which is L-shaped when viewed from the end. When installed in the piston, the horizontal part fits more deeply in the piston groove while the vertical side rubs against the cylinder wall. This style of ring gives good sealing and prevents piston-ring flutter during acceleration and deceleration of the piston.

"Keep on charging the enemy, so long as there is life."

Todd Scungio
98 RS
15.711 @ 87.43 MPH
2001 DSM Shootout Winner - NT Class

Modifications: GS-T muffler, Iceman cold air intake, AFX underdrive pulley, Brospeed header, Apexi Super AFC, Extrude Honed intake manifold, KYB AGX shocks, Powerslot front rotors, Porterfield R4S front brake pads, and occationally Mazda RX-7 rims with 225/50VR16 Michelin Pilot SX-GT tires

Why would you not pass emissions and what companies make dyke rings?




http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

I don't know which company makes them, but you should be able to find them if you look.

It's NOT the Dykes rings which will cause you to fail emissions, it's overboring the cylinders one or two thousandths.

The reason why you'd overbore the cylinder just a hair is to reduce the friction in the cylinders. Most of the power lost in an engine is due to piston and cylinder wall friction. The overbore will reduce that friction and give you more power.

You would use Dykes rings since they seal well (and help to counter the sealing problem overboring would cause) and because they don't "flutter" at high piston speeds.

The problem with doing this is you'd probably have a real hard time passing emissions (it would seal well enough for the engine to run but you'd almost certainly burn oil which would hurt emssions) and maybe after 10K miles you'd need to replace all the rings again. But, as one person I know said, big deal, do you want to go fast or not? :)

"Keep on charging the enemy, so long as there is life."

Todd Scungio
98 RS
15.711 @ 87.43 MPH
2001 DSM Shootout Winner - NT Class

Modifications: GS-T muffler, Iceman cold air intake, AFX underdrive pulley, Brospeed header, Apexi Super AFC, Extrude Honed intake manifold, KYB AGX shocks, Powerslot front rotors, Porterfield R4S front brake pads, and occationally Mazda RX-7 rims with 225/50VR16 Michelin Pilot SX-GT tires