Sup Guys.

Please give me some input on what you think.
This time, I am really confused about what is WRONG with my engine!

I just did a compression test again today after I put everything back (without turbo) (so now I am N/A)

Anyway, my compression test came out 223-212-215-223
Seems like VERY GOOD! but I thought in the previous post, were were discussing and thought my ring is fxxked for #2 cylinder!

this is very weird. when I did the cold compression test 2 weeks ago, it was 200-160-200-200. what's sup with that?

Please give any input!
I need some explanation guys!
Gil

Strange. From those compression numbers it sounds like you just need to rebuild the turbo(as you found out in prior post it was dead), not the whole engine. I can tell you this gil, you will need to eventually get a rebuild with forged if you want to get some life out of that car.

Originally posted by RxR_Eclipse
Strange. From those compression numbers it sounds like you just need to rebuild the turbo(as you found out in prior post it was dead), not the whole engine. I can tell you this gil, you will need to eventually get a rebuild with forged if you want to get some life out of that car.

This is my sentiments. Your turbo is dead. Not the engine. Get the turbo rebuilt and start saving for a bottom end this spring sometime, Gil. You seem to have averted disaster once again. :thumbsup

Hahaa.. Thanks.

BTW guys.
Some more update.
Now that I have to put my turbo on but not connected to INTAKE, since I see the TURBINE spins as the car start (I assume when RPM is higher then IDLE)

Well, can my turbo still be DEAD?
can it be leaking OIL like CRAZY!!! and still spins? (not as smooth as 6 months ago) but still can spin.

Thanks again!
Gil

I would do a wet test just to be sure, then you know its the turbo for sure.

Originally posted by gilee_8
Hahaa.. Thanks. BTW guys. Some more update. Now that I have to put my turbo on but not connected to INTAKE, since I see the TURBINE spins as the car start (I assume when RPM is higher then IDLE) Well, can my turbo still be DEAD? can it be leaking OIL like CRAZY!!! and still spins? (not as smooth as 6 months ago) but still can spin. Thanks again! Gil

If the intake is off you're looking at the compressor wheel not the turbine wheel (unless you left the downpipe off too). Just because your turbo still spins doesn't mean it's not dead. It's leaking oil because the seals are bad. No one said the bearing was bad.

Also, please don't say that you are planning to run the turbo without it hooked up in the intake path. If the turbo is blown you need to remove the turbo.

But Why do I have to remove the turbo?

The reason I asked this and the reason I put it back on, because if I don't do that, I will have NO WAY to reconnect my DP to my exhaust Manifold (I threw away all my stock mani and exhaust pipe)

So give advise on WHY I shouldn't leave my Turbo on if it's DEAD?

I know it will leak oil, but I didn't put back my wastegate, or IC pipe, so it won't build pressure, correct? so I assume it won't lose too many of an oil in a short time?

Thanks!
Gil

<bangs head on wall>

Without any resistance (such as compressing an intake stream), the turbo will spin as fast as it can, and then some. If you think it is blowing oil now, just wait until you spin it up to a half of a million RPM.

<bang>
<bang>
<bang>
<bang>

Maybe you'll even get it up to a million RPM. THAT would be fun. Until it seized in place and formed an enormous clog in your exhaust system. It would be like driving around with a clogged catalytic converter (which all that burning oil might wind up doing anyways).

<bang>
<bang>
<bang>

Originally posted by Ducking_Fumbass
<bangs head on wall> Without any resistance (such as compressing an intake stream), the turbo will spin as fast as it can, and then some. If you think it is blowing oil now, just wait until you spin it up to a half of a million RPM. <bang> <bang> <bang> <bang> Maybe you'll even get it up to a million RPM. THAT would be fun. Until it seized in place and formed an enormous clog in your exhaust system. It would be like driving around with a clogged catalytic converter (which all that burning oil might wind up doing anyways). <bang> <bang> <bang>

i wouldn't do that :shrug /\/\/\

Damn.... I never thought of that!
Thanks man!
THanks!

So I have to take off the turbo?
anyway of avoiding what the ^^^^ said?

Coz I have no stock mani, or exhaust to put back on.
and I need a car to drive.
So what can I do?
Thanks in advance!
Gil

Buy a cheap Ebay header, just to get you by for now. Or see if any members are tring to get rid of there old stock manifold.

Originally posted by gilee_8
Damn.... I never thought of that! Thanks man! THanks! So I have to take off the turbo? anyway of avoiding what the ^^^^ said?

No. I just typed it because my keyboard was lonely. OF COURSE YOU NEED TO TAKE OFF THE FUCKING TURBO!

So wait, let me get this straight, does he need to remove the turbo?




BTW, I have a flat tire. The wheel still spins and I can drive on it. So would there be any problem with driving around on a flat tire until I can buy a new one? I sold the spare tire that came with my car.... so....

Originally posted by thedawg
So wait, let me get this straight, does he need to remove the turbo? BTW, I have a flat tire. The wheel still spins and I can drive on it. So would there be any problem with driving around on a flat tire until I can buy a new one? I sold the spare tire that came with my car.... so....

Sparks are cool! :)

It sounds like your turbo is definetally shot, and there is likely(not 100% sure) a problem with a ring or ring land on that #2 cylinder probably due to oil starvation when the turbo ate all the oil up. If there is a slight crack in one of the pistons it would likely expand and seal once the motor is warmed up... hence the good compression numbers. I would take the turbo off and stick with N/A until you can afford a new set of forged pistons and a new/rebuilt turbo. With those compression numbers it should run fine for the time being, I would take it easy on the motor until you get the chance to peak in there and fix things. If you do a cold compression test, i'd bet the results would be similar to your first test with the #2 cylinder being reasonabily lower than the rest of the cylinders. BTW, your engine bay looks great. Take it easy on her!

Thanks alot.

I will do so!