Awhile back my car started throwing a cel so I got it checked and it was the egr so I removed it and blocked up the holes. Now when I start my car in the morning and try to let it warm up the cel is on and it will run for about 30 sec and then die(Just as if I turned off the key). When I start it up again the cell is gone but when I start going and shift from 1st to 2nd the cel comes on again. When I accelerate or decelerate the cel stays on but if I level out the car jerks and the cel goes off. It will come on again in another couple of seconds if I keep driving. If I kill the car while the cel is off and start it the revs go up and take a long time to come down. What I was wondering with this crazy problem is why would it do this after I removed the EGR system(It was also doing this before the removal). Could it be a leak in one of the EGR ports or could it be a Idle Air Control Sensor or something else. I have no idea what this could be and sorry for the sketchy details, but any help would be extremely useful. Ask all the questions you need cause I will be on for a good while. Thanks in advance.

Originally posted by LeJeune123
What I was wondering with this crazy problem is why would it do this after I removed the EGR system(It was also doing this before the removal).

Are you seriously asking this? Let me put it this way. You basically just asked this:

I'm missing my right front tire. There is a scraping sound when I try to drive the car. Why would it do this after I replaced the wiper blades?

Catching the drift here? It might just be that THE EGR HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH YOUR PROBLEM AT ALL! :bash If you really suspect EGR system, revert it back to stock. Troubleshoot. Report your findings.

Get to work!

Originally posted by DR1665v2

Originally posted by LeJeune123 What I was wondering with this crazy problem is why would it do this after I removed the EGR system(It was also doing this before the removal).

Are you seriously asking this? Let me put it this way. You basically just asked this: I'm missing my right front tire. There is a scraping sound when I try to drive the car. Why would it do this after I replaced the wiper blades? Catching the drift here? It might just be that THE EGR HAS NOTHING TO DO WITH YOUR PROBLEM AT ALL! :bash If you really suspect EGR system, revert it back to stock. Troubleshoot. Report your findings. Get to work!

damn, you're a huge dick, but it's so funny.

dude, if you think it's egr valve related check the back of your manifold when the car is running and see if the plate is leaking. if it is you will have a vacume leak. removing the egr system will trow two a code. if they cell was on b4 you did this you may have more. have someplace scan your car and see what it is. eh

Sounds like you my have brushed a the cam angle sensor wire against something and worn it out and it's randomly grounding onto something.
Mine did it for a while and it'd die just like that after about a minute or so after it heated up and allowed the wires to ground on the EGR hot pipe.

May be it, look into it.

joseph

Finally some help!!!!! I will check into that tonight when I readjust my headlights. The cel comes on every now and then just how it did before I took it off but I got it checked before and after I took off the EGR and it comes out to the same result, EGR Failure.

The ECU tests EGR functionality in different ways depending on year. 95's, it doesn't check anything but the actuator circuit. If the actuator is there, then it's happy. EGR flow wasn't a diagnostic check or requirement until full OBD2 compliance, which was mandated for the 96 model year but likely didn't happen until the 97 model ECU and code were released (from what I have seen).

Sometime after the car is started and a certain coolant temp and operational parameter is met (run time, rev range, engine temp, etc, etc, etc) the ECU checks the EGR system's functionality. it does this by commanding the EGR open, and the IAC shut. If all is right and good in its world, the incomming air from the EGR will keep the car idling even though the IAC needle valve is closed. If the idle drops and the engine almost stalls, or stalls completely, it flags an EGR flow code. If the idle drops a few tens of RPM but stays fairly normal, it considers everything well and moves on.

You're having idle issues because it's trying to test the EGR at the least, and maybe you have vacuum leaks on top of that. Check for vacuum leaks first and fix them if you find them, and just live with the odd idle issues the EGR removal creates... or hook the actuator back up to both the harness and a vacuum souce, so that it CREATES a vacuum leak when the actuator is commanded open.

Or i'm completely fuckin wrong, in which case you should ignore me.