I am wondering if there is a specific way to torque down ARP head studs.

The way I did it was I torqued all of the head stud nuts down to 70 lbs per the pattern outlined in the repair manual (start in middle and spiral outward). And then to 90 lbs after that.

Is this corrct? I ask because when I looked at the gasket used, the gasket did not seal properly in one place, specifically the passengerside intake side portion of the gasket. I am getting the head magnifluxed, pressure tested, and milled next week to make sure it isnt warped or cracked.

So how is that torque pattern?

Same torque pattern as stock - start at the inside and work out.

How are my torque settings?

I torqued mine to 75ft lbs with the Molylube. Why do some of yall torque it to 90ft lbs? Is that with motor oil?

Also...I used an allen key to tighten the studs as far as it can go then screwed down the nuts on and toqrued em. But it seems like one of my studs is just a tad longer than the others....did I fug up putting it in?

I use an allen wrench and tighten them hand-tight into the block, and use the ARP moly lube on the studs in the block and the nuts on the studs. My final torque is 100 ft/lbs. I do the same three step process, but do 50, 80, 100 as the settings. At 100ft/lbs, i go over them once more before I call it good. It is also a good idea to recheck them after three heat cycles. Failing that, check them a few days later when it is convenient. I've never had one loosen up on my, but YMMV.

yea same bolt pattern as stock, if you plan to run high boost torque them at about 90-100. start with 20 ft lbs first, then 50, then 80, then 90-100. i usually just hand tighten the bolts flush with the head with no torque, and then begin the process

edit: mine are at about 90 + 1/4 turn right now, dont use a torque wrench for the 1/4 turn part