I was wondering if the one-piece main bearing cap for the crank required any type of silicone gasket sealant before install. The reason i'm asking is when I took it off, it was quite clean. No residue or anything from left over gasket sealant.

Thanks!

Main bearings should go in dry...before you set the crank on... where the crank journals ride on the bearings lube the bearings with some clevite 77 lube.

Originally posted by dizzastic
Main bearings should go in dry...before you set the crank on... where the crank journals ride on the bearings lube the bearings with some clevite 77 lube.

Yeah I understand that part, but concerning the large main bearing "cap." Some call it a "bra." Do I put any gasket sealant on this surface when reinstalling it?



^that thing!

im not a 100% positve on that but i wouldn't put any sealant on just cuz it came off clean, and i have never put and sealant on when rebuilding a 350(i know different engine but still) just make sure your seals are put in the right way and you should be fine. sorry if this dosent help :(

you need to put on some anaerobic sealent there. it is a red jelly, that never dries. i thought the same thing when i pulled mine apart about not putting anything in there. but, i'm glad i checked on here and found out different. you will also use the same stuff on your cam caps.

Originally posted by nosdeclipse
you need to put on some anaerobic sealent there. it is a red jelly, that never dries. i thought the same thing when i pulled mine apart about not putting anything in there. but, i'm glad i checked on here and found out different. you will also use the same stuff on your cam caps.

OK awesome!

For the cam caps, I put it ON them? or between them and the cams and the head?

Yes you need anaerobic sealant there.
Loctite 518 or even the permatex. Napa has the permatex for 11-13 bucks. The dealers want 30for the loctite.

YEs IT DOES dry, it just needs to be extremely thin to do so and it will not dry while it is exposed to air.

You dont see it because it gets put on so thinly.
Read the hanes or the mitsu manuals. YOu have to do a continous bead around it.

Originally posted by Chamuko
Yes you need anaerobic sealant there. Loctite 518 or even the permatex. Napa has the permatex for 11-13 bucks. The dealers want 30for the loctite. YEs IT DOES dry, it just needs to be extremely thin to do so and it will not dry while it is exposed to air. You dont see it because it gets put on so thinly. Read the hanes or the mitsu manuals. YOu have to do a continous bead around it.

This guy at the local autoplace recommended LMX The "RED" Grease.

This doesnt sound at all like what I need.

Why the F would you put grease between the betplate and block as a sealant?

Permatex makes some sealant that is called HPV i think, its blue, i have used it many times. if you look on the back of the package it states for bearing caps ect. Autozone carries it and it is like 7 bucks. Only use anaerobic sealant on the outer 4 cam bearing caps.

Terry

You need Loctite 518, or Mopar Gasket Maker (can't remember the part #, get it at the dealer).

Read the 420A Rebuild Manual, it's an FSM excert and its linked in my signature. if you install the BEDPLATE dry, you will leak oil like you wouldn't believe.

The sealant specified is used because it's torque-cure anaerobic, which menas it only dries under a pressurized torque load without oxygen. You can leave the tube open until Doomsday and it'll never harden, but up it under pressure and remove the air and it's dry. It's specified for this application because it dries super thin and in a specified thickness - your main bearing clearance dpends on how thick that seal is! Any thicker, and your main bearings are out-of-round. Any thinner, and they're gonna bind on the crank.

it is beyond important that you use the correct stuff on the bedplate. Any less could have disasterous results down the line.

For the rest of you that didn't know this: If you don't know, don't offer advice. You may cause more harm than good.

lol, i was surprised how many people replyed to this thread, with no knowledge of how a "bedplate" to block works, and how to seal it. lol

Originally posted by grain
lol, i was surprised how many people replyed to this thread, with no knowledge of how a "bedplate" to block works, and how to seal it. lol

Tell me about it. Kinda Scary.

Davo: do a little searching. We covered all the assembly sealants a while back.

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=set_threaded_mode&forum=5&page=&topic_id=74726&prev_page=show_topic#74731

Originally posted by DarkOne
You need Loctite 518, or Mopar Gasket Maker (can't remember the part #, get it at the dealer). Read the 420A Rebuild Manual, it's an FSM excert and its linked in my signature. if you install the BEDPLATE dry, you will leak oil like you wouldn't believe. The sealant specified is used because it's torque-cure anaerobic, which menas it only dries under a pressurized torque load without oxygen. You can leave the tube open until Doomsday and it'll never harden, but up it under pressure and remove the air and it's dry. It's specified for this application because it dries super thin and in a specified thickness - your main bearing clearance dpends on how thick that seal is! Any thicker, and your main bearings are out-of-round. Any thinner, and they're gonna bind on the crank. it is beyond important that you use the correct stuff on the bedplate. Any less could have disasterous results down the line. For the rest of you that didn't know this: If you don't know, don't offer advice. You may cause more harm than good.

I searched advanced auto parts, pep boys, and my locall parts store, and none of them carried loctite 518. Where can I find this stuff?

I am glad you posted this bc I was going to use the high temp red gasket maker for the sealant. I guess i was lucky I recieved the wrong bearings.

Davo: look at the link I posted above. I have a full list of the sealants and the links for them. Permatex Anaerobic can be used instead of the loctite product.

Here is the link since you did not check it... :wary

http://permatex.com/auto/autouh.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no=51813

Originally posted by CODE4
Davo: look at the link I posted above. I have a full list of the sealants and the links for them. Permatex Anaerobic can be used instead of the loctite product. Here is the link since you did not check it... :wary http://permatex.com/auto/autouh.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no=51813

I was actually printing that whole list as you were posting ;).

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Permatex makes some sealant that is called HPV i think, its blue, i have used it many times. if you look on the back of the package it states for bearing caps ect. Autozone carries it and it is like 7 bucks. Only use anaerobic sealant on the outer 4 cam bearing caps. Terry

I found this sealant. WHEW! It only took 3 stores and 2 hours.

And I've also found that NOONE keeps our bearings in stock.

Yes thats the stuff i have used. Interesting how it is listed differently on the web site code4 posted. Doesnt mention bearing caps but on the package it tell you thats what its used for.

Code4....where did you get the avitar...i must have it!!!!!

Terry

Originally posted by Star Turbo Talon
Yes thats the stuff i have used. Interesting how it is listed differently on the web site code4 posted. Doesnt mention bearing caps but on the package it tell you thats what its used for. Code4....where did you get the avitar...i must have it!!!!! Terry

FYI, NAPA has everything you could every need as far as sealants are concerned. I found the Permatex blue anaerobic sealant there after i bought the other stuff.