Ok well im in the midst of installing crane #14's, crane cam gears, already have ss valves and crane springs installed, along with pt lashers/lifters. got some problems though.

1.) i got a 3/8" drive 6" socket extension JAMMED in the crank bolt hole (i used it instead of something smarter while pulling the old pulley off) stupid, yes. anyway i'm doing it in the parking lot at school just because. stupid, yes again. i ended up going and buying a hacksaw and cutting off the tapered part so i could slip off the pulley. so i still have like 3-4" of extension sticking out. im going to have my parents bring me the sawzall and a drill this weekend, cut it down and then drill it out. let me tell u, those goddamn craftsman tools are strong as shit, took a torch to it to no avail, hacksaw took me 3 hours to get 2/3 of the way through, then i hammered it. anyway, anyone have any suggestions on how to get it out other than drilling it out and re-tapping the hole? anyone think i could just leave it in there and the unorthodox udp will stay on? im thinking thats a bad idea, but then again, that stock pulley was a bitch and a half to get off, so maybe it will hold?

2.) the damn thing wont start up. the timing is DAMN close, it may not be perfect but if it isnt its only a tooth or so off. the motor cranks over, it doesnt quite sound the same as it used to though. i have spark, i have fuel, but it doesnt fire up. i dont get it. i thought i may have had the cam magnet backwards but it only goes on one way. im stumped. i'm going to go double check the timing in a little bit.

3.) the timing belt doesnt sit on the new cam gears right. it hangs over like 1/4" on the motor side. now i know that isn't good for the timing belt. anyone know what the problem is with that?

4.) this has nothing to do with the above problems, but i think my hub might be fucked up. little less than a month ago i replaced 3 wheel studs on the passenger front. after that i think the hub may be bent. i got the whole front end up in the air, put it in gear and let the wheels spin in 3rd gear. the whole wheel wobbles (i know the tire is balanced, rim not bent) as well as the rotor rubbing against the caliper. is it possible that while beating the old studs out i bent the hub all up? i dont wanna go replacing the hub until im sure thats the problem.


any help is really appreciated, been workin on this damn thing for 2 weeks now, finally have it half way together and im at a stand-still until i can figure some shit out. i miss driving my little econo-turd.



edit: yes i searched

It sounds like you bent the hub when you beat out the wheel studs.

When you bought the Crame Cams cam gears did they send you ones for the Eclipse 420a or the Neon 420a? If they sent you Neon cam gears the timing may be way off depending how they are indexed from the 2gnt ones.

Alright lets go by the numbers.

Originally posted by willmayo
1.) i got a 3/8" drive 6" socket extension JAMMED in the crank bolt hole (i used it instead of something smarter while pulling the old pulley off) stupid, yes. anyway i'm doing it in the parking lot at school just because. stupid, yes again. i ended up going and buying a hacksaw and cutting off the tapered part so i could slip off the pulley. so i still have like 3-4" of extension sticking out. im going to have my parents bring me the sawzall and a drill this weekend, cut it down and then drill it out. let me tell u, those goddamn craftsman tools are strong as shit, took a torch to it to no avail, hacksaw took me 3 hours to get 2/3 of the way through, then i hammered it. anyway, anyone have any suggestions on how to get it out other than drilling it out and re-tapping the hole? anyone think i could just leave it in there and the unorthodox udp will stay on? im thinking thats a bad idea, but then again, that stock pulley was a bitch and a half to get off, so maybe it will hold?

I would get the extension out. Some have drive around for a little while because they messed up theirs too. Hopefully you didn’t mess of the threads inside the crank. Next time go buy a longer bolt to use the puller on.

Originally posted by willmayo
2.) the damn thing wont start up. the timing is DAMN close, it may not be perfect but if it isnt its only a tooth or so off. the motor cranks over, it doesnt quite sound the same as it used to though. i have spark, i have fuel, but it doesnt fire up. i dont get it. i thought i may have had the cam magnet backwards but it only goes on one way. im stumped. i'm going to go double check the timing in a little bit.

Timing has to be DEAD ON. You’re going to have to pull the Unorthodox back off and reset timing.

The timing marks on the Crane gears are also off, because they are not intended for the 2.0L.

Your best bet now is to put on your stock gears with stock timing, and retime the motor, dead on.

Originally posted by willmayo
3.) the timing belt doesnt sit on the new cam gears right. it hangs over like 1/4" on the motor side. now i know that isn't good for the timing belt. anyone know what the problem is with that?

When Crane produced the cam gears they screwed up. They basically made 2.4L cam gears and called them 2.0L gears.

You DO NOT want you timing belt riding half off the gear, it’s going to get chewed up and break, then you’ll be in a world of hurt. Both your engine and your wallet.

Originally posted by willmayo
4.) this has nothing to do with the above problems, but i think my hub might be fucked up. little less than a month ago i replaced 3 wheel studs on the passenger front. after that i think the hub may be bent. i got the whole front end up in the air, put it in gear and let the wheels spin in 3rd gear. the whole wheel wobbles (i know the tire is balanced, rim not bent) as well as the rotor rubbing against the caliper. is it possible that while beating the old studs out i bent the hub all up? i dont wanna go replacing the hub until im sure thats the problem.

Sounds like you could have messed up the hub.

Originally posted by Scandelous
It sounds like you bent the hub when you beat out the wheel studs. When you bought the Crame Cams cam gears did they send you ones for the Eclipse 420a or the Neon 420a? If they sent you Neon cam gears the timing may be way off depending how they are indexed from the 2gnt ones.

The Neon and Eclipse 420A cam gears are the same. Same timing marks and everything. Crane’s are just wrong.






Exile Racing Technologies: http://www.exileracing.com
Assasin of Joy

Originally posted by Michael_97RS
Timing has to be DEAD ON. You’re going to have to pull the Unorthodox back off and reset timing. The timing marks on the Crane gears are also off, because they are not intended for the 2.0L. Your best bet now is to put on your stock gears with stock timing, and retime the motor, dead on.

ok so what about the crane gears? cant use them?

hahahaha. i hope you have your stock cam gears. cause those are for the 2.4. wont even work for you. better send those back and get some aem's or something, i had the same problem.

Originally posted by grain
hahahaha. i hope you have your stock cam gears. cause those are for the 2.4. wont even work for you. better send those back and get some aem's or something, i had the same problem.

i still have them, its running now. but idles REALLY high. every time u rev it up, it holds its rpm for a bit then slowly approaches idle but still never goes under 1200 rpm. any suggestions?

anyone have any suggestions on how to get out the socket extension? it wiggles around a little bit but thats about it. i wanna put my accessories back on but cant cuz im not puttin the crank pulley on with that damn thing in there.

I did the same thing once, (extension in crankshaft) i used two pipe wrenches to get it out. put a large one on the crankshaft right where the udp sits, and put a smaller one on the extension. hold the crank wrench steady and turn the one on the extension as if to be unscrewing it and it should work itself outta there. you may want to heat the end of the crankshaft a bit also with a small butane torch or equivalent but make sure you don't get near the oil pump seal. i pointed the torch straight up from the bottom, right onto the crankshaft. its safer that way. i can almost guarantee you killed the threads inside the crank though. you'll have to tap them. the tap size is "1.75 metric" hope that helps you out. laterzzz...chris

The socket extention actually worked well for me, except I think I used a 1/4" extension, not a 3/8". If the belt's hanging off the cam gears, I wouldnt run the engine at all. Last thing you want is some bent valves from a broken timing belt. Sounds like the 2.4 style gears to me.


1996 Eclipse RS / 5-Speed / Aerogear Body / Coated in Magnetic Red Metallic rev.2 / T3 Turbo Intercooled @ 8 psi / http://www.team2nr.com
Mark Galyan - Indianapolis, Indiana

Originally posted by willmayo

Originally posted by grain hahahaha. i hope you have your stock cam gears. cause those are for the 2.4. wont even work for you. better send those back and get some aem's or something, i had the same problem.

i still have them, its running now. but idles REALLY high. every time u rev it up, it holds its rpm for a bit then slowly approaches idle but still never goes under 1200 rpm. any suggestions? anyone have any suggestions on how to get out the socket extension? it wiggles around a little bit but thats about it. i wanna put my accessories back on but cant cuz im not puttin the crank pulley on with that damn thing in there.

It idles that high because your timing is way off.

Good luck getting the pulley back on with the extension stuck in there, you need the stock crank bolt to pull the pulley back on the crank.



Exile Racing Technologies: http://www.exileracing.com
Assasin of Joy

looks like crane fucked another person over!! thanks to crane it took another week to get the right part. and crane said it was my fault until i straight up told them to shove it up their ass. If you need a set of stockers let me know. i have a set. buy unorthodox or fidanza they are damn good.

my car will sound like, bumbabumbubavrooooooooooooooomrooooooooahhhhhhhhhhhhh, kishhhhhh
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VW= The joy of driving
DSM= The frustration of fixing

Originally posted by Michael_97RS

Originally posted by willmayo

Originally posted by grain hahahaha. i hope you have your stock cam gears. cause those are for the 2.4. wont even work for you. better send those back and get some aem's or something, i had the same problem.

i still have them, its running now. but idles REALLY high. every time u rev it up, it holds its rpm for a bit then slowly approaches idle but still never goes under 1200 rpm. any suggestions? anyone have any suggestions on how to get out the socket extension? it wiggles around a little bit but thats about it. i wanna put my accessories back on but cant cuz im not puttin the crank pulley on with that damn thing in there.

It idles that high because your timing is way off. Good luck getting the pulley back on with the extension stuck in there, you need the stock crank bolt to pull the pulley back on the crank. Exile Racing Technologies: http://www.exileracing.com Assasin of Joy

are you sure the timing is off? i did it by the book, all the marks line up and everything. i was thinking the idle problem was because of a vacuum leak. i broke one of the cheap hard plastic vacuum lines running from the egr to the intake plenum.

The timing marks on the Crane gears are incorrect. So even if you are lined up on those, your timing is off.

The broken vacuum line does not help, and is causing it's own problems. You'll need to fix both.



Exile Racing Technologies: http://www.exileracing.com
Assasin of Joy

Originally posted by Michael_97RS
The timing marks on the Crane gears are incorrect. So even if you are lined up on those, your timing is off. The broken vacuum line does not help, and is causing it's own problems. You'll need to fix both. Exile Racing Technologies: http://www.exileracing.com Assasin of Joy

sorry i may not have mentioned, but i swapped the stockers back on and aligned those perfectly. i need to concentrate on getting the damn extension out because it makes turning the crank a PITA.

bizump, anyone have any idea whats goin on with my idle? checked all the vaccum lines and they're good. car idled fine before i ripped her apart so i doubt if its the AIC. think it could be the intake manifold not tight enough or something? i gotta get this thing runnin good soon. i wanna go home saturday night (im at school). its wierd i can cover up the throttle body with my hand and it keeps idling just as high. i dont get it!

Check for vacuum leaks at all the gaskets.

If you don't have the crank pulley back on the engine could be trying to use a higher idle to spin the alternator faster to get a better charge in the system.

Get it all back together if you haven't and start diagnosing from there.



Exile Racing Technologies: http://www.exileracing.com
Assasin of Joy

Originally posted by Michael_97RS
Check for vacuum leaks at all the gaskets. If you don't have the crank pulley back on the engine could be trying to use a higher idle to spin the alternator faster to get a better charge in the system. Get it all back together if you haven't and start diagnosing from there. Exile Racing Technologies: http://www.exileracing.com Assasin of Joy

i'll do that, thats an interesting idea. i never really thought of it but it makes sense, i'll let you know what happens. im just gonna have to concentrate on getting that damn extension out now.

Originally posted by willmayo

Originally posted by Michael_97RS The timing marks on the Crane gears are incorrect. So even if you are lined up on those, your timing is off. The broken vacuum line does not help, and is causing it's own problems. You'll need to fix both. Exile Racing Technologies: http://www.exileracing.com Assasin of Joy

sorry i may not have mentioned, but i swapped the stockers back on and aligned those perfectly. i need to concentrate on getting the damn extension out because it makes turning the crank a PITA.

I did the same thing a while back...and learned my lesson. What I did to get it out was used a manual spring compressor to somehow hook the extension and then expand the compressor. It worked well. It was basically the same way a jaw puller worked.

In the HG set, there was only one new gasket for the egr. so i replaced the one that goes on the egr valve, not on the intake. i just reused the intake one which was in, eh, not so good condition, prolly my leak huh? i ordered an set of egr blockoff plates, that damn pipe is gonna melt all my wiring that is strewn all over the place now. sound like a plausible cause of my whack idle?