I am considering building my head and installing a set of high compression pistons(12.5:1 possibly). I have some questions for anyone who as gone this route, and since everyone goes turbo this seems like an interesting alternative.
Here is my setup idea:
-JE 12.5:1 pistons
-Copper 3layer HG
-Accel 24lb/30lb Injectors
-S-AFC
-AEM cam gears
-Crane #10 street cams (are there better cams?)
-PT lifter/lash adjusters (Howell kit)
The questions:
Will the stock rods take the upgraded pistons without problems?
Is there any other computer that will work for 1997+ cars (similar to AF/X one)
This will still be my daily driver, what else would be needed to keep reliability unaffected?

Any other comments/opinions (besides "get a turbo kit" lol) are appreciated, I would like some feedback on this.

You don't really want too thick of a head gasket because compression is your friend. Crane 0016 or 0018 would be hella better than the 0010's. You'll need some valve springs and retainers for beefier cams. You'll probably need to upgrade your cooling system too.

I haven’t seen a 3 layer copper gasket. Since Copper doesn’t compress, I’m not sure why you would. I highly suggest staying with the MLS gasket.

In addition I recommend an ignition amp, with the ability to retard timing. On 12.5:1 there’s a possibility you’ll get some knock without pulling a couple degrees of timing. At least you will want the ignition amp, with the higher cylinder pressures due to the increased compression you want as strong as spark as you can get so it doesn’t blow out. Especially if you plan on getting the AFX ECU the added timing advance is a bit much for that high of a compression, but the increased redline would be of use.

I’m a big Crower Cam fan The stage 2 is a very streetable grind. Stage 3 would get you more power but if this is a daily driver I probably wouldn’t go with the bigger cam. The Crane 10, or even Crower 1’s are a mild grind meant for a basically stock engine. Too mild for my taste.

You may want to go with a slightly lower compression of 11.5:1 for more streetability also.

If you can afford a big more I would recommend going with the e-manage over the S-AFC, I’ve used both and I much prefer the e-manage. 16x16 adjustment grids, allows for a much finer tuning. There are a few of us running it here, and there’s a timing adjustment capability that we may be able to wire in with enough research and extra parts

With higher redline (AFX ECU) and the other goodies, getting better rods is a good idea a set of Eagles would take whatever you throw at ‘em NA. The stockers “should” handle the power, but they are far more susceptible to damage if there’s a slight problem, or you are off in tuning a bit.

I prefer the Fidanza Gears or Unorthodox above the AEM’s I prefer 5 bolts over 3 holding my gears still.

I would definitely recommend a nice P&P on the head with upgraded valvetrain etc.

My biggest recommendation is plan on some dyno time to dial in the set up.

I also don’t see an underdrive pulley on your list, that would help out.




Exile Racing Technologies: http://www.exileracing.com
Assasin of Joy

I was thinking of a lightweight flywheel over a UDP, I have heard several bad things about the pully's eventually causing main/other bearing failure or other crank problems. I just realized that the AFX is 97 only, and being a 98 car that takes that off of my list. I am gonna have an Injen CAI and 55mm TB as well, and I will probly bore out the intake manifold to match the new TB. I was getting the 3 layer HG confused with the larger one for turboing, although I plan on upgrading it to the MLS to be reliable under high-comp. Thanks for the feedback everyone, I am going to do a lot to lighten my car and hopefully get some low 15 second track runs in once everything is done.

The 97-98 ECU wiring differences should be minimal and with a little bit of rewiring it should be possible to run the 97 on the 98.

Yeah port & polish on the manifold will be good too.

Most of the cars that complain of bearing damage due to UDP is because they have a keyed Harmonic balancer crank pulley and is part of the balancing on the rotating assembly. Ours is a harmonic damper pulley. My engine smoothed out when I installed mine. There are more people than I can count here running them with no reported damage.

If there's any parts we can help you out with just let me know: michael@exileracing.com



Exile Racing Technologies: http://www.exileracing.com
Assasin of Joy

What about a Megasquirt? With all the current talk recently, wouldnt that be a better mod than the afc or e-manage, or the af/x ecu altogether? Would prolly do a 2.2 stroker maybe for more torque. And if anyone ever finishes a itb setup design too, that would be a good na mod as well. (*hint* michael)

My suggestions:

1. Trust Mike up there completely. :thumbsup
2. If you're turbo, I would stay at the 10.5:1 CR. A good mix both turbo and NA.
3. Crower cams. Stage 2. Build the head to run them (lifters/rockers/springs).

You can see my setup in the NDSMR under the Arizona cars. (Look for the picture with the blinding headlights - you can't miss it.) I ran completely untuned - no cam gears, no fpr, no ignition, and no instruments - for 25k before oil starvation and poor install techinique led to Wiseco failure. I definitely suggest a build up with increased CR, but being on the moderate side will work well with turbo and not become a pure beast to tune daily.

:thumbsup

EDIT:
NDSMR = National DSM Registry

Originally posted by Michael_97RS
I prefer the Fidanza Gears or Unorthodox above the AEM’s I prefer 5 bolts over 3 holding my gears still.

AEM hass come out with a 5 bolt design!! Yayyyy! Just an FYI. I read it in a mag somewhere last month and i just checked their site. Sure enough they are available! WOO HOO!! :thumbsup