you know if this was summertime where I didn't have classes and just work and play with my car, it would actually be cool. But nope, first week of classes and the fucken CM4 decides to go. My advice for all of you guys who are boosting double digits, go with a non mod set up. It'll save you money in the long run, trust me. I fogot how I did it last time I installed my CM4. Don't know if I took the tranny out through the top or dropped through the bottom. But I know the last 3 times I took my engine out, I took it with the tranny and engine out together through the top. Just remember the perfect 45degrees when doing so. So let me hear from some of you guys who've taken just the tranny out, since I'm too stupid to remember. I didn't feel like searching, since I want you guys to relive this with me step by step, so you noobs better take notes. I know what I'm doing, just trying to remember how I did it the last time. I'll take any questions if any of you new guys have any. So here's your chance and no one will yell at you for not searching. Oh yeah, I plan to replace the main seal too. For those of you who've done it, did you use a special tool to put it in? Because I remember, from searching, that all you needed to do was line it up and lightly tap it in. How much do one of those fuckers go for anyways?

p.s. Again if you're boosting double digits, go for non mod set up.

absolutly-positively-with-out-a-doubt drop it out the bottom. as long as your car is up on jack stands and you remove your inner fender shield then you'll have way more than enough room to slide it out. i know you've done this before but i'm just going to say it anyways... put the clutch on the input shaft first and then put the tranny and clutch on the motor at the same time. i just did my clutch about a month ago and if i would have done that i would have saved myself about 4 hours of work. i put the clutch on the flexplate first and then tried to get the tranny on the clutch, but trying to get the input shaft and clutch splines to line up is impossible. good luck dude!

i purchased a rear main seal for my clutch job incase i saw some oil in there. i didn't so i didn't replace the rear main. i still have the dealer reciept in front of me and the rear main is part # 4621939AB at $15.20. i would be more than happy to answer any questions as well from either yourself or the noobs reading this.

Is it even possible to take it out of the top? I dont see how you could make the room.

victor reinz rear main at napa is ~$5

Somehow I managed to get the tranny on the clutch and flexplate last time I did it. A lot of cussing and swearing dude. Pulling it throught the top requited team work and patience....and cussing and swearing.

Gravity is always your friend.

It's an absolute bitch getting the trans over a modular clutch. Try having someone put a lot of weight on the motor to tilt it more downward on the driver's side when you are trying to get the trans onto the clutch.

http://www.armond30.com/adp/smartquestions.html

Scroll down to 'clutch'. I read armond's write-up every now and then the 1st time I did the job.

edit: btw, I would have replaced the rear main even if you didnt see it leaking... eh..

its funny, i put my mod clutch on the flywheel first, and it slipped right on. then, i thought my tob fell off, so i pulled it back, it was fine, then it took me 15 minutes to get it back on. and the flywheel bolted up first try also...weird. just undo all the bolts, don't forget the one in the back on the bottom, and put a floor jack under there with a wide piece of wood on it. jack it up till there is almost tension on the tranny, pull the tranny back, lower it a little, and slide it until the thing comes of. then put one hand on the tranny, stabalize it cuz its akward on the board, then lower it down. same process for putting it back. but i had to stand from the top and heave it up and jiggle it on. did it all by my self which wasn't TOO bad, but im not anxious to do it again.