http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/cm_clutchkitsmitsu.html

the stage 4 clutchmasters is listed for $446. no one else sells it for anything near that price. whats the deal?

89-99 2.0 non-turbo??? the clutch is the same as the 4g63's???

Evan B
97 GS
90 GSX
Stamford CT
EvMan2345@aol.com

yeah that's strange. i also found this:
http://www.hopupracing.com/clfxstbahedu4.html
on sale, the steage 3 only, no stage 4...but still is this legit for a stage 3 at only $499?

Sounds funky to me, I don't think that shit is right. But I know 3 and 4 is not far apart in price. Cyan my advice is do it right and save money. Go for the non mod set up. My CM4 only lasted about 10k miles. Find yourself a neon flywheel, turn it over .33iirc and call Dan at clutch dyanmics. Should cost you somewhere around 300 for everything, and from what Jason tells me, it should last you a lot longer.

yeah i thought about it but $300 for everything doesnt include a new pressure plate though. the CM plate holds 60% more than stock. so it's either 300 for the non mod. and also, 10K miles on a CM is low...alot of people have abused them and gotten over 30K out of them. considering i haven't put 30k on my car in over 6 years i'm not really worried about clutch life as much as i am about holding capacity.

Dude I pushed 15psi daily. Super20g got about the same amount of life out of the CM4 as I did. I highly recommend going with non mod setup, so that it would be cheaper in the long run.

Well, I put a new rear main seal in... HOPEFULLY that is what was causing mine to slip? I dont know, but the rear main looked like it was leaking a little and when I removed it, it was the OEM one, and didnt have a spring around the lip of the seal. when I get the motor running I am gonna see if the clutch will hold again.. (crosses fu#$in' fingers cause tranny removal/install = pita day).

BTW, I got my CM4 for ~500-550 bucks... but they quoted me wrong and had to eat their ass on the deal when it came in, eh.. If the clutch IS bad, (again, crosses cut up fingers from last tranny install), I am gonna send the modualr setup to CM or SPEC or somewhere and just have them drill out the rivits, clean it up, install new disk, and rivit it back together...

Originally posted by DSMRoadster
Dude I pushed 15psi daily. Super20g got about the same amount of life out of the CM4 as I did. I highly recommend going with non mod setup, so that it would be cheaper in the long run.

Okay, so neither one of you can drive. I have 20K on mine, all daily driven, and i make more power than you. You either got a bunk clutch or you enjoy slipping the clutch from 5000RPM for the first 60' of the track.

yeah i may go to the track once in the next 4 years...probably never though, so my clutch won't see the amount of wear that any of yours has. ive also never dropped it higher than 3000rpm and dont see any reason to in the future. being that all my fast driving and racing will be on the street, where there arent many cars here that can run against our cars with 15psi anyway, i shouldnt ever need to abuse the clutch to win a race.

however, if a modular clutch fails on me in a short time, i would then most definately switch to a non mod setup

The link you guys are looking at is for the 1G 4g63 non-turbo GS.

That site apparently doesn't carry a clutch for the 2.0 420a http://www.importperformanceparts.net/imports/cm_clutchkitschrysler.html