ok, so i got the bolt off the stock dampner pulley, and cut off the old belts cuz i couldnt figure out how to loosen the a/c, alternator and p/s. so now i go to drop the engine by removing the motor mount thats on the passenger side.

i took off the one bolt, and the two nuts that are next to it, and it didnt drop for me??

what do i need to do to get the engine to drop. im sure i am forgettin a bolt, but help would be cool.

well, i hit it with a hammer a couple of times, and it dropped like an inch or so, but not enough. the two bolts that stik up and connect to the nuts are flush with the motor mount right now, so hitting them with a hammer wont work, please help...

also, after i got the stock bolt off, i went to home depot, lowes, and checker to get a similar bolt but longer.

i found a 7/16 bolt, and a 1/2 bolt that seem to match up pretty nice. any insight as to which one i should use cuz i dont wann mess up the threads inside. i also got washers for the 7/16 cuz they fit right on the stock bolt. im leanin towards the 7/16, but cant think that far ahead.

also, the threads on the new bolt are not as long as the threads on the stock bolt, is that gunna be a problem?? there was sum left over residue on the stock bolt, and i tried to get a bolt that had a decent amount of threads, but none of them had the same amount.

tia, and gracias

so i cant edit the message anymore i guess.

anyways, i figured out i gotta get out the motor mount, but im strugglin. the coolant resevoir is right above it, and i dont wanna bust that off. also, i cant get a good grip on the mount and i need to get those bolts perfectly in the center of the holes to get the mount off, and it aint workin for me. im usin a floor jack, and a peice-a-wood under the oil pan.

are there any other places i should try to jack the engine up??

take off the coolent overflow tank. take off the 2 bolts that hold the tank mount in place. Take the whole motor mount out of the car. there should be 2 bolts and 2 nuts removed from the mount.

Missing Car. . .
Contemplating Turbo. . . . .

http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

ok, thats what im tryin to do, but i cant see anything. i feel that the coolant resevoir is connected at teh bottom of it, but how do i go about gettin to it.

like, where are the bolts that hold it on??

thanks fast420, if your on aim, hit me up. ill be in a nd out, but ill check

i went through chiltons, and it doenst have anything about the removal of it, just fillen her up.

dude what are you doing?!!!!

No need to hammer your car! she's gonna be hurt! =)

Just pull up on the coolant reservoir bottle thing..it slides off vertically off the bracket. You can leave the bracket there. Then support your engine with a jack and loosen the one bolt and 2 nuts that hold the engine side bracket to the side motor mount. Remove them.

Then rmeove the one long bolt that holds the side motor mount to the engine bay. Remove the side motor mount.

Now drop the engine all the way down. you *may* have to remove the front motor mount bolt.

You will need to use a blow torch to expand the stock pulley and then use a 3-jaw 5ton pulley remover to pull it out.

Then to put the UDP you'll need to use the blow torch to expand it and it will easily slide onto the crank in which you should then just torque downt he crank pulley bolt. (blow torch can be bought from home depot for 10 bucks).

Also, you will need to know how to tighten/loosen the alternator and accessories belt puley tensioner to put the new belts on.

If you cant loosen the alternator and acc. belt pulley tensioner, you shouldnt be doing this.

ok, motor mount out, and she didnt drop any further down. where is this front motor mount bolt?? im gunna check the chiltons when i go back outside

so how do i tighten/loosen the p/s and a/c belt tensioner??

dont hate, im tryin, just askina cuple questions. i got 2 more days til i gotta go anywhere, so i got time foo.

Hey vegas check the link on my sig to help you out. You don't have to clear the whole entire crank pulley of the frame, just the smaller pulley of the two. The whole pulley isn't going to drop anymore than that. I got my puller from autozone for 42 bucks- 3 jaw 5 ton. You can return it when your done. The bolt needs to be about 1" LONGER thatn the stock one. You want a longer one to keep as many threads in the crank so you don't mess em up, and you need it also to have some room for the pulley to come off when your pullin it. I heated up the pulley with a torch, but it still was tight as hell. Just check out my timing belt how-to link below dude! Oh yeah, i found an exact match for the bolt in my shop. I install truck acc at my shop, and believe it or not, the bolts that come off of a chevy truck's body mounts when installing step bars, is identical and an inch longer! I have like 10 or so of these bolts, so if anyone needs a hook up, let me know, or if anyone is having probs finding the right one, just go to your local junk yard and take one off of a chevy truck, preferably an extended cab newer models.

Am I the only person who dropped the XMember to do this? It allowed the engine to drop even more. It was 4 bolts. Don't even need to disconnect the F+R motor mounts. Just a hint, though, might as well remove the motor mounts and throw some motor mount inserts in... almost no extra work. Anywasy, to recap, dropping the crossmember will alow the engine to drop as far as the driver side motor mount will allow (just keep the jack under dat oil pan). It's all good.
-=B-=

Yeah I would think you are the only one to drop crossmember.

Try jacking up on the transmission to lower the passenger side of the motor. Just make sure you have a block of wood between your jack and the oil pan. And I didn't need to heat the stock pulley, I just used tyhe 5 ton 3 arm pulley from autozone and she came off easy as pie.

"The fastest draw is when the sword never leaves the scabbard,
The strongest way to block, is never to provoke a blow,
And the cleanest cut is the one withheld."

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All Motor Beast in the Making

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Ported/Polished Intake Manifold, Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads

The instructions that Howell sent explicitly told me to drop the crossmember. Well, not drop, just unbolt. Since I did motor mount inserts at the same time, I actually did pull the crossmember. Not much extra work, and the engine was dropped enough for me to do all that I wanted to do.
-=B-=