Can I pull out a stud and replace it with a new one with the head still on?

TIA!

Nick
97RS

turbo8u> shut your SUCK
ZAO684: NIPPLE warning...maybe>?
turbo8u> yea i was a window licker on the short bus in junior high

Dude?! What size studs are you using? I've got a post in the general section trying to figure out the size. Read my thread and see my dilema.

So I think I have it figured out. The reason why I was curious was because ARP said that they were different thread pitch for the bottom and top part of the stud. Well if stock uses bolts then the thread pitch has to be the same. I assume that the thread pitch for the top of the stud must be smaller if it at all different. So I should just be able to take out that one stud and replace it.

EDIT: Check your thread.

Nick
97RS

turbo8u> shut your SUCK
ZAO684: NIPPLE warning...maybe>?
turbo8u> yea i was a window licker on the short bus in junior high

Yes, the arp studs use different threads on each end. Its easy to tell, because the nut end has the allen head slot in it. Its not best to replace one stud with the rest of the head torqued down, because you will be relieving torque on a certain spot on the head. It can be done, but its prob not the best way to do it..

So would you reccomend, removing all the tension first and then replacing? By this I mean, un screwing all of the nuts in sequence and then replacing the stud?



Nick
97RS

turbo8u> shut your SUCK
ZAO684: NIPPLE warning...maybe>?
turbo8u> yea i was a window licker on the short bus in junior high

Originally posted by Collente
So would you reccomend, removing all the tension first and then replacing? By this I mean, un screwing all of the nuts in sequence and then replacing the stud?

fuck that dude, just throw in the new one. no need to loosen all of em and then re-torque..thats just to much useless work imo

what do you need to swap a stud out for anyway? what's up? leaky hg or something?

dude. You DEFINTELY want to loosen all the studs before replacing just one.

If you think it's unnessacary work, then you didn't build your engine, and if you did, I wouldn't race your car, it's going to blow if you don't torgue good.
A friend of mine had a 68 camaro, and didn't torque the heads down right, got 200ft down the track and detenated. Blow all the oil out of the engine and sent the car into the wall. He almost didn't make it.

TORQUING BOLTS IS VERY IMPORTANT!!!!

Originally posted by turbo8u
fuck that dude, just throw in the new one. no need to loosen all of em and then re-torque..thats just to much useless work imo what do you need to swap a stud out for anyway? what's up? leaky hg or something?

you have GOT to be kidding me....

useless work?!?! No need to loosen and re-torque all of them?!?!?? You DO realise you are talking about HEAD BOLTS and not bolts to a body kit or new spoiler.

:wallbash

Have you EVER put on a cylinder head before? imo I'd say...ummm...NO and the lousy advice you've given proves it.

If you did then you would know if you took out ONE head bolt/stud and put a new one in or a single stud, the head would then be torued down improperly and the headgasket would be practically gauranteed to fail.

There is a reason WHY the torque specs are so specific for a cylinder head, because if it is not torqued properly the headgasket will fail. The next time your cylinder head needs work, (or if you feel like doing a science experiment) go ahead and try loosening one bolt and then torqing it back down and let us all know what happens :rolleyes

It's one thing to give bad information about, say, a header or CAI, but for something as critical as torquing down head bolts, please don't tell people this kind of crap if you don't know what you are talking about and have never done it yourself. We don't want people blowing out their head gaskets for no good reason.