Well, some of you MIGHT remember my post in the noob/general forum... basically I heard some nasty sounds... turned out to just be my valvetrain, not a melted piston or two. (oh great, right?)

One of my problems was that the coil-side terminal on one of my plug wires had completely disappeared, and was obviously making the car stumble/giving it a very uneven idle. The shop did not spot this, concluded that it must be my coil or coil harness.

I went with the MSD coil (for reasons unknown... red = type r.. type r=faster!!) maybe just out of sheer simplicity... Discovered my wire problem when installing it. Got it in, car fired up right away. Drove to aunts house to housesit on Friday, parked it until today. Car would not start. First I replaced my NGK's with some bosch pos'es, no help. Wires are all in place, no compromised hoses as far as I can see..

Then I checked the coil/fuel relays... The connectors coming off of the harnesses are caked up with white crap.. corrosion... whatever you want to call it.. I didnt have my contact cleaner or any of my tools so I just tried plugging/unplugging repeatedly. Eventually this worked and before it finally did start, I heard the fuel pump turn on (I hadnt noticed its absence before)

So whats my next step? Blast harness with contact cleaner and call it a day? Should I replace both relays? Is there a way to purchase this segment of the wiring harness so I can get new connectors? Or should that not be necessary? They dont appear damaged just caked up with white crap.

((Also, I dont know if anyone would know... but.. following a reset(+reprogramming to .1bar), my HKS EVC4 doesnt control boost at all... Don't think there are any pinched hoses but I didnt get a chance to check.. is there some kind of a dead period where it lets my wastegate spring make all the decisions?))

am i like... blacklisted/invisible/banned or something?

bleh

after cleaning/regreasing no help... still wont start... battery is only putting out 12.5, little low... but I dont think thatd be the end to my problems

fuel pump/mfi relays are fine... :o

I dont know what else to try... think I just have to find a good shop

ok my fuel pump definitely isnt turning on... I havent heard it since yesterday when it finally did start... I didnt do the "second half" of relay testing (connecting +12v to blades 4 and 6 and checking for 0 continuity in 2 and 8)... but are there any other electrical choke points between fuel pump and front rats nest? a fuse somewhere?

ok if I do the Corbins' Fuel Pump Rewire... it still requires that the stock wiring be in good shape, to activate the 30a relay.. right?

Or.... I could just add a switched ##v to that blade to turn it on manually, bypass the stock bs?

If I pull my back seats... remove access panel... is there a harness I can just pop off and check with multimeter? This would tell me pretty much 100% whether its a wiring/fuse/relay/miscellaneous impossible gremlin issue, or just a dead/dying fuel pump...

Originally posted by GhEttOrAiD
If I pull my back seats... remove access panel... is there a harness I can just pop off and check with multimeter? This would tell me pretty much 100% whether its a wiring/fuse/relay/miscellaneous impossible gremlin issue, or just a dead/dying fuel pump...

Once your seat is out, you will see a squarish metal cover with a wire harness going through it. Thats where your fuel pump is. You can test to see if the pump is getting power, just by using a simple 12v test light, or a multimeter if you wish. The positive wire for the fuel pump is a black wire with blue stripe. The other wire is a ground. If you are getting power back there, then it could be a bad fuel pump. Just be aware, that when you turn the key to the "on" position, it will only "prime" the fuel pump, and hence give it power, for ONLY a few seconds, so be sure to test it quick enough. You may also want to test it in the "crank" position also. I actually had my ignition relay go bad on me...car would not start every once in a while. Put a spark tester on the plug, and wanst getting spark. Put in a new relay and it fired right up..You may want to replace the both relays, and also, that white stuff is anti corrosion greese, its supposed to be there. Its like a di-electric greese.

Originally posted by XtremeRS

Originally posted by GhEttOrAiD If I pull my back seats... remove access panel... is there a harness I can just pop off and check with multimeter? This would tell me pretty much 100% whether its a wiring/fuse/relay/miscellaneous impossible gremlin issue, or just a dead/dying fuel pump...

Once your seat is out, you will see a squarish metal cover with a wire harness going through it. Thats where your fuel pump is. You can test to see if the pump is getting power, just by using a simple 12v test light, or a multimeter if you wish. The positive wire for the fuel pump is a black wire with blue stripe. The other wire is a ground. If you are getting power back there, then it could be a bad fuel pump. Just be aware, that when you turn the key to the "on" position, it will only "prime" the fuel pump, and hence give it power, for ONLY a few seconds, so be sure to test it quick enough. You may also want to test it in the "crank" position also. I actually had my ignition relay go bad on me...car would not start every once in a while. Put a spark tester on the plug, and wanst getting spark. Put in a new relay and it fired right up..You may want to replace the both relays, and also, that white stuff is anti corrosion greese, its supposed to be there. Its like a di-electric greese.

Yeah I noticed that when cleaning them it, wish it had been corrosion!

Definitely need a test light and a spark tester... I'm tired of having shops handle my messes... Thanks!!!!!

Ok the fuel pump is definitely receiving power...at least up to the very last connector... circuit tester pulsed just as you described

Also used a universal ignition test light, its all fine up to the coil. (not sure about timing though..)

What I couldnt find at kragen = noid light tester... so I could slip into the injector connectors and check for power... I mean I could just ghetto rig one of these two test lights to work... or just put a long tail+resistors on a couple of led's but thats ghetto, too many extra variables.

I should just pull the fuel rail+check my injectors out, but I figure if I just throw a Walbro in there, hopefully putt over to the shop in Hayward, I can leave my car there while im on vacation....

Based on this information, should I overnight a Walbro in-tank? I love being hasty/impatient but can't necessarily afford it.. If I don't get the car running then I have to pay ~100 to tow it...

Sweeeeeeeeeeet...for everyones' future reference... replacing the mfi/fuel relays part number: 4671047

it was impossible to order from the Mitsubishi parts desk... guy just couldnt understand what I needed (should have just brought the part in) so I went down the hill to the dodge parts dept and they ordered it right up.

Pump primed/car started on the first try. So relieved that its not something more major! Now I've got to start saving for a nicer pump, sfmu, probably do the fuel pump rewire to bide my time.