175 140 175 160
hmmmm looks like it is the headgasket I finally had a chance to look at her. I will be pulling the motor I guess now that I have a real job and can pay to rebuild her.. I am going to have it o-ringed and maybe swap out the eagle rods for some ones that can hold a little more HP It is time to stop fucking around.

best time so far 14.3 @ 101.1mph(no traction)
fastest 2GNT with a hitch! until proven wrong...
www.cnnmotorsports.com

what exactly are you going to have "o-ringed" lol

I am going to have the head and block o-ringed so I can use a copper headgasket and not have to worry about blown headgaskets. I recently bought an 03 tacoma and I dont need my car as a daily driver anymore so it is going to be a track car...

best time so far 14.3 @ 101.1mph(no traction)
fastest 2GNT with a hitch! until proven wrong...
www.cnnmotorsports.com

i don't think that's your problem. it could be that your head needs to be checked for flatness or the block deck. you need a straightedge and feeler gauge and check to see if it's within specs. it could also mean improperly torqed head bolts or you're overheating too much which leads to a ruined head. you should take your head to a machine shop and check it out. you're not running that much power to do headgasket damage. i've boosted 20-22psi before and never had an issue on that.

Originally posted by extreme97nt
I am going to have the head and block o-ringed so I can use a copper headgasket and not have to worry about blown headgaskets. I recently bought an 03 tacoma and I dont need my car as a daily driver anymore so it is going to be a track car... best time so far 14.3 @ 101.1mph(no traction) fastest 2GNT with a hitch! until proven wrong... www.cnnmotorsports.com

Most people don't have a problem with the headgaskets on the 2gnt...
Was it the original head gasket? If so what year is the car? A lot of 95's had head gasket problems...

NO it is the second headgasket. The block and head were surfaced and built by Vt competition. The block first and then when the gasket went I put in a built head with another new gasket I am using arp studs and they are torqued correctly and I also used the mopar gasket spray shit. It either went because of 2 things I beleve. Boosting 18psi daily with a stock cooling system. Or I have some slight detionation. However I really dont have any visual signs of detionation. I will see when I pull the engine later in the fall.

best time so far 14.3 @ 101.1mph(no traction)
fastest 2GNT with a hitch! until proven wrong...
www.cnnmotorsports.com

were the valves checked for leaks of bad spots on the valve seats? either valve leak or ring leak. Try a leak down and see where the air escapes....you gotta be curious where its leaking.....

terry

96 Eagle talon ESI
Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges

97 Eclipse
Greddy header - Apexi N1 3" exhaust - SFMU/return line - Apexi SAFC - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks

Waiting to be installed: HKS EVC IV, 450 Turbo injectors, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

Mitchell on Demand copies available

I agree...do a leakdown test to see exactly where it's leaking. I think it odd that two seperated cyls. are showing lost compression. Usually for a head gasket they are in two adjacent cyls. Unless you have, as mentioned before, bad valve seats, valves, slightly bent stems... I would be curious to know what is causing the loss of compression. Please keep us posted?

I doubt it is the valves because they are 1mm oversized ferea valves I tried doing a leakdown test but my stupid leak down test gauge is fucked up. The reason I took it off the road is after driving it would push the coolent out of the overflow tank and eventually overheat.

best time so far 14.3 @ 101.1mph(no traction)
fastest 2GNT with a hitch! until proven wrong...
www.cnnmotorsports.com

Originally posted by extreme97nt
I doubt it is the valves because they are 1mm oversized ferea valves I tried doing a leakdown test but my stupid leak down test gauge is fucked up. The reason I took it off the road is after driving it would push the coolent out of the overflow tank and eventually overheat. best time so far 14.3 @ 101.1mph(no traction) fastest 2GNT with a hitch! until proven wrong... www.cnnmotorsports.com

How do you mean "push coolant out of the recovery tank"? It sounds like you have an issue with your cooling system too.

he was loosing coolant through the overfill tube. Whenever you blow a head gasket, you have a cooling problem too

Originally posted by brokenrodguy
he was loosing coolant through the overfill tube. Whenever you blow a head gasket, you have a cooling problem too

Yes you may have a cooling problem but generally you will be losing coolant through the tailpipe or into your crankcase with the blown head gasket. It normally doesn't cause an overheat without throwing some serious smoke. That is to say that most of the coolant is going out of the system and not into the recovery tank. Further his compression results aren't completely indicative of a blown head gasket. Rare that it will blow 2 cyls out to the open. They usually blow between two adjacent. Not saying it can't be just that in my experiences it hasn't been. I would be looking at rings or vlaves. Weak springs, cylinder taper, out of round, etc.. Needs to a differential pressure test (leakdown test) to be sure. No sense in ripping apart a motor if you don't need to. Unless you want to rebuild it bigger better faster... Then it's all really a moot point.
As for the coolant, I was wondering and didn't word it right, I wanted to see if it was overflowing from the recovery jug or just "dissapearing". All that leads me to think is that he is totally overpressuring his system and it becomes an issue of why. Running lean (more air from boost and same fuel delivery) can cause an engine to run hot. But it could also be thermostat, bubble in system somewhere, or any number of other reasons.
Not trying to get into a pissin' contest with anyone but I hate to see people do more than they need to because they or someone else mis-diagnosed the problem. Pet peeve of mine with other shops and dealers! Mainly because they give us a bad name and tghat isn't how I do business. I will tell you my limitations and the true extent of what is wrong. Sorry. That is just a sore spot with me.


:shrug

The coolent system is pressurizing and dumping the coolent out of the overflow of the recovery tank. I dont have any coolent coming out of the exhaust and the oil is clean. The motor runs like a champ too. I am not too worried about the compression for now. This was a dry test so that could contribute. I have been trying to figure out the coolent issue. This was the main reason I went and bought a new truck. I have a new waterpump and 160deg thermosthat in there. I have gotten all of the air out. It seems to overflow alot on hot days or if I am boosting alot or if I am on te parkway for an extended period of time. I am running an 8 injector setup and plenty of fuel and the entire motor is built from cams to oilpump. Could it be that the stock cooling system just cannot handle the HP????

best time so far 14.3 @ 101.1mph(no traction)
fastest 2GNT with a hitch! until proven wrong...
www.cnnmotorsports.com

What pressure of radiator cap do you have and what condition is it in? Stock? Are you still using the stock fan/fans? Are they coming on when they are supposed to? Is your radiator clear of debris from the front and in between if you still have the A/C condenser in front of the rad.?
The Cap is more important than people realize. For every pound of pressure that you put on a cooling system, you increase the boiling point of the coolant by 3 degrees. A 15Lb cap will net a boiling point of 257deg F. of STRAIGHT water. Throw in the Ethylene Glycol or close to it and it gives you about a 265 deg boiling point give or take some. If your cap isn't right then you will boil a whole hell of a lot quicker!
Check those things and if they are all good, I would say you have some other issue inside the block. Like a clog somewhere.

I did change the cap out wiht a 13lb cap OEM replacement. As for the compression, The car was sitting for about a month so it is probably just some shit on the valve seats. Do you think By putting a higher psi cap I can solve the problem? Also there is no shit blocking the radiator besides the ac condenser and my FMIC.

best time so far 14.3 @ 101.1mph(no traction)
fastest 2GNT with a hitch! until proven wrong...
www.cnnmotorsports.com

Could be the lower pressure cap. Could also be the FMIC slowing and slightly blocking the air. All those are is heat exchangers. So warmer air is getting to your radiator. I would be looking at your cap. The 98 spec is 11-15 for a factory turbo and 14-18 for N/T. The 97 manual for the Sebring/Avenger 420A/6G73 calls for 16Lb on the 420A (420A same as ours. 2.5L 11-15Lb). So I think that I would look at raising the pressure on the cap. The 95 has the same specs as well and they all call for a 195 Deg F thermostat. Lastly, What mix ratio are you using with the anti-freeze? 30-60% is spec and 50% seems to me to work the best. Hope that htis can help you get her back on the road.

As for your compression...On #2 you are at 20% difference with 25% being the accepted hi-split limit (not that I think it should ever be allowed to stay that far apart). So I agree with you and reccommend doing a wet test when you get a working guage.
Good luck and If I can do anything else for you More than happy to do so.