I have a crack in the metal powersteering line right by the fitting that connects it to the shaft. I thinks its the shaft:shrug Its pretty much the end point for the line coming from the pump. So its been leaking out constantly, and my system will go dry after 20 minutes of driving. So I added that lucas power steering additive, which was thick as molasis, and it slowed the leak down a bit. And now I don't hear the annoying noises from a dry rack. But I decided to remove the power steering, instead of paying $100 to get the stupid line replaced. So when I remove the pump, lines, and resovoir, should I make sure that all the fluid is out of that "shaft?" I was thinking, if there is no fluid in there, will it make that stupid groaning noise? Also, if I do leave fluid in there, do I just add fluid to the "shaft", then cap it off? BTW, whats the name of that block horizontal "shaft" anyways?

It's a rack & pinion, not a "shaft." This isn't a blaxsploitation film.

The rack doesn't make those noises, the pump does.

Doesn't matter if there's fluid in the rack or not, it's still gonna be hard to turn.

umm just fix the leak repair the cracked line

I want to get rid of my power steering when I put my new engine in. I prefer the feel, plus I would like to get a little power gain. Should I fill the rack & pinion with power steering fuild, then cap it off, or let the rack be dry and not even have caps on it? To the people that have completely removed the power steering system, how did you do it?

I searched but still have not really found any good answers. Can someone answer the questions I have above? Also, will fluid in the rack make it last longer compared to being dry?

fix the line....drivin without sucks....can't make quick turns and turning around is a BITCH....fix the line cuz ur not gonna gain much from removing it....Trust me after awhile u'll miss it...

I over reved my motor today....Yeh missed second with a bad master cylinder...


My belt flew off, and let me tell you I had issues in the city with constant turning and paralel parking.


Put the belt back on plus I was using the AC and smoken a blunt....that means windows gotta go down that sucks.

If you going to remove the power assist then here are a few things to think about:

If you are going to leave the rack filled with fuild for lubrication, you will need to leave the fitting in the rack and run a rubber line from fitting to fitting so the fluid can flow back and forth in the rack itself. If you just plug up the line sockets then the rack will hydrolock basically. You have to remeber the rack has two chambers in it and a line goes to each.

If you pump all the fluid out of the rack and plug up the lines there is a change air will get trapped in these cylinders and cause problems, either blow out the seals or make turning very tough....that would be something you just would have to try i guess.

And another interesting thought.....Lee has P/S lines you can buy one for cheap or junk yards have them and would probably cost 5.00.

Terry


96 Eagle talon ESI
Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges

97 Eclipse
Greddy header - Apexi N1 3" exhaust - SFMU/return line - Apexi SAFC - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks

Waiting to be installed: HKS EVC IV, 450 Turbo injectors, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

Mitchell on Demand copies available

I wouldn't recommend removing it. The other day I was thinking about taking mine off to see what it drove like b/c my dad's truck isn't bad without it.

Anyways, the night after that, it broke and it was pouring the rain. Seriously, it's hard to back up and turn!

what do you mean it broke?

do you need a rack now?

Terry

96 Eagle talon ESI
Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges

97 Eclipse
Greddy header - Apexi N1 3" exhaust - SFMU/return line - Apexi SAFC - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks

Waiting to be installed: HKS EVC IV, 450 Turbo injectors, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

Mitchell on Demand copies available

Well, I guess I got the verdict to keep the power steering, on and patch up the line. What should I use? JB Weld, or something?

good luck with JB weld....I had a small crack in the PS line and that really didn't do a damn thing....I just replaced it and went on.....

Well, I see what I can do.

It'll wor wether there is fluid in it or not.

Best thing to do, leave it full of fluid, and route the inlet into the outlet so the fluid can move freely between the two halves.