We made a log of a 3rd gear pull to around 110mph the other night and got some data numbers from teh Logger. Had no speed sensor, so I'm guessing speed by my bouncing off the rev limiter that time, and not tonight when I managed to hit 105mph in 3rd a little before the limit.

So here's some observations:

* RPM range of this pull was 3300 (where I punched it) and we ran to 7800rpm where the rev limiter kicked in. We were already moving and I had shifted to third and was compression braking when I basically stood on it. So this entire log is of a single gear at WOT.

* Front O2 jumped to 0.92v under the max PocketLogger TPS reading of 76% (WOT). Gradually dropped to 0.85v at the peak rpm. Looks to be fairly stable througout the RPM range. I'm thinking a good balance of airflow at both the top and bottom of the rpms range.

* Timing varied from 24* advanced at the start (WOT) to 19* (still WOT) at the top end. With a slight blip in the middle of the pull to 16*. Timing variances do not appear to coincide with O2 readings. :shrug

* Air temp started at 144* and dropped to 135* at the top. Not a huge drop, but considering my short ram is less than a foot away from non-shielded header, and the bay is unbearably hot after driving, I think the intake temps dropping almost 10* is noteworthy.

We managed to get a couple videos tonight of both the lumpy idle and a really good pull with three, above 7000rpm shifts, where we rolled Daisy to just over 100mph on the highway. I'm waiting for FTP info from QC DSM and then I'll upload the vids I have now, and more this weekend after John and I scope out some back roads where I can really open her up. }(

Discuss.

cool.

LOL.

Maybe I ought to get a graph posted or something. Just wanted to see if anything looked out of whack to the vets here. ;)

24 degrees advance? that af/x isnt doing shit.

i see 26 sometimes at WOT, and im turbo :shrug

edit: drop your intake air temps driggs. <cough> water injection. you'll pull more timing.

edit 2: whats the 02 voltage at other rpm's? 3K? 4K? 5k? .92 is good, .85 is wack

timing is kinda weak. i bet the ecu is learning the cams, idle, etc. you should drive her as much as possible, then get some more logs. have you found the CEL clearer useful? lol.

water injection would help alot with intake temps and a kit can be made for around $110.

propane is another option and bumps your octane rating to ~110.

drive the car more IMO.

*what grade fuel are you currently running?

Who sold you the ECU and did they let you know it had a 7800rpm kit? This might not be the race unit? :shrug

actually woodley his timing is normal for a stock ecu. but he has the af/x....with supposedly advances timing...but i dont see it, at least from whati gathered from driggsy's logs

Well, this run was less than an hour after pulling the battery again to properly plug in the speedo sensor. My srewey idle is back as a result, which pretty much tells me its my IAC taking a dump on me. I'm thinking of setting idle manually while watching the logger and pulling the plug on the IAC (worthless POS imo. Why do we need it again?) So basically, the ECU is still adjusting the short and long fuel trims. When we looked at the numbers, it appeared the ECU was pulling mad fuel at the low end and then absolutley no correction throught the pull until the very last second or so when it started to add more gas to the mix. We'll see what we get imo. :thumbsup

As for the intake temps, a heat shield and ram air headlight are in the plan for the next week or two imo. Yeah. I said ram air headlight. }(

rough sketch imo.

Originally posted by DR1665
I'm thinking of setting idle manually while watching the logger and pulling the plug on the IAC (worthless POS imo. Why do we need it again?)

mind telling me how the motor would get air with the throttle plate closed? (simulating an idle situation) the IAC is what makes you idle, without it...good luck

edit: and yea, your timing advance should perk up once you get some info in your ECU.

whats the fuel trims at idle? -9ish?

Originally posted by turbo8u
mind telling me how the motor would get air with the throttle plate closed?

That's why it was a question no0b. :P

You drill out the cap over the back of the arm that the throttle cable bracket (the curved piece the cable goes into on the front) stops against at rest. Then you get access to the torx head on the set screw that the throttle rests on when the pedal is released. By adjusting this set screw in and out, you can modify where the throttle plate rests when your foot's off the gas pedal. So, leave the IAC installed, but unplugged, and then manually set your idle with the plate. It still allows you to adjust the cable bracket on the mani independently for WOT adjustment. The only problem I would see with this (other than being 100% ideal) is that there would be no way for the ECU to compensate for the AC kicking on and off at idle. So you might still get a 25 for target idle not found.

Just some thoughts on the subject. :shrug

heres a thought....keep your IAC

Originally posted by turbo8u
24 degrees advance? that af/x isnt doing shit. i see 26 sometimes at WOT, and im turbo :shrug edit: drop your intake air temps driggs. <cough> water injection. you'll pull more timing. edit 2: whats the 02 voltage at other rpm's? 3K? 4K? 5k? .92 is good, .85 is wack

24-19 degrees of advance is pretty damn good for that intake tempature. I never get that amount of timing, even when the weather is like 50 degrees out.

As for 26 degrees of advance on a turbocharged application, that seems to be a bit much, but hey, if it runs it runs.

Hey Brian, ever heard of the "FCD on a N/A" trick? If you ever desire more timing advance for any reason you can build one of those things and clamp your MAP voltage to around 4.35-4.40 volts and you'll pick up a few more degrees. Careful, though, it will lean you out a little too. You're now in that area where you might consider buying a wideband.

Originally posted by ner947
ever heard of the "FCD on a N/A" trick? If you ever desire more timing advance for any reason you can build one of those things and clamp your MAP voltage to around 4.35-4.40 volts and you'll pick up a few more degrees. Careful, though, it will lean you out a little too.

Never heard of that mod, but might look into it after she's tuned.

Originally posted by ner947
You're now in that area where you might consider buying a wideband.

Onboard Zeitonix box is in the plan for the near future. Just trying to decide if I want to get it or the SAFC2 first. Probably the wideband so I can see what they O2 is up to in general before I go fucking around with it. :P