for-those-who-dont-know-i-snapped-a-rod-a-month-ago
I-rebult-ever-since
had-the-car-for-a-week-and-was-driving-today-and0got-a-cel.Was-doing-70mph-on-5th-gear-and-pulled-over.-car-slowed-down-to-a-bad-engine-knock.pulled-negetive-off-and-checked-all-wires-and-started.started-fine-but-still-had-knock.its-as-if-i-snapped-another-rod-but-no-cel.wat-else-cud-it-be-except-a-barring-or-rod?car-shakes-violently

sory-for-no-space-bar

Might of spun a rod bearing. What's with the dashes between your words? :wary

Edit: Oh, no space bar.

i-dont-understand-how-i-cud-with-full-oil-and-week-old-barrings.
i-also-saw-oil-on-one-side-of-the-valve-cover-trying-to-seep-out

after you rebuilt....what kind of oil did you put in it

10-30-conventional-castrol

Pull the oil pan and look. Don't expect anything good.

i was praying you didnt say synthetic. you Re-USED your bearings?! WHY!

my money is definately on a spun bearing.

edit: you said you got a cel. whats the code?

Originally posted by turbo8u
i was praying you didnt say synthetic. you Re-USED your bearings?! WHY! my money is definately on a spun bearing. edit: you said you got a cel. whats the code?

I think he said the bearings were new. I'd still say you spun one tough. Check for excessive rod play when you pull the oil pan.

Had the car a week, week old bearings...etc.

no,-barrings-are-new-cause-i-fryed-the-old-ones-so-these-are-only-a-week-old-since-my-rebuld.

no-cel-after-i-pulled-the-negetve-so-i-cant-tell

by-the-way-i-had-an-oil-b4-that-went-away-in-higher-rpms.only-turned-on-during-cold-start-and-then-at-idle.friend-said-it-was-sensor-so-im-having-autozone-tested.draining-oil-tonite


how cud the barring go tho?wasnt beating on it and i was babying it to break it in

Originally posted by brokenrodguy
by-the-way-i-had-an-oil-b4-that-went-away-in-higher-rpms.only-turned-on-during-cold-start-and-then-at-idle.friend-said-it-was-sensor-so-im-having-autozone-tested.

What? Do you mean CEL?

Originally posted by brokenrodguy
how cud the barring go tho?wasnt beating on it and i was babying it to break it in

Improper installation or oil starvation. Choose your poison.

oil was checked every night
extreme97nt managed install

Originally posted by Uberingram

Originally posted by brokenrodguy by-the-way-i-had-an-oil-b4-that-went-away-in-higher-rpms.only-turned-on-during-cold-start-and-then-at-idle.friend-said-it-was-sensor-so-im-having-autozone-tested.

What? Do you mean CEL?

Originally posted by brokenrodguy how cud the barring go tho?wasnt beating on it and i was babying it to break it in

Improper installation or oil starvation. Choose your poison.

yes
oil
light

The oil light comes on only under extremely low oil pressure situations.

Originally posted by Uberingram
The oil light comes on only under extremely low oil pressure situations.

5psi, you're fucked if the oil light comes on.

my money is on the fact either the rod bearings or main bearings are out of spec, and spun do to excessive clearance issues.

oil came out clean at about 4.5qt
i think i poked a rod so off comes the pan tomorrow
:( thinking of just sellin the shit as is
thinking that howell gave me std instead of oversized barring

wats next

Originally posted by brokenrodguy
wats next

pulling the motor and plastigauging the main/rod bearings :thumbsup

give me the rods....for free. ;)

Originally posted by brokenrodguy
oil came out clean at about 4.5qt i think i poked a rod so off comes the pan tomorrow :( thinking of just sellin the shit as is thinking that howell gave me std instead of oversized barring wats next

OK... so you fried your last bearings, then you rebuilt using new bearings right?
Did you do anything to the crank? Did you get the crank ground or a new crank? If your crank was messed up from your last bearings and you put in new bearings... your gonna have shit all oil pressure... because of clearances that are too big on the bearings.

you said you think howell gave you the wrong bearings? What size did you order, and what did it say on the box when they arrived? Pull out one of the bearing shells and read the numbers off the back...

Oversize bearings are used when you have the crank ground down... if you have the crank ground 10 thou, then you get 10 thou oversize bearings. If it's ground down 20 thou, you get 20 thou oversize bearings. I've ordered bearings from Howell many times now, and they got them right every time... but YOU should check them beforeyou install them!!!

i-got-a-new-crank-after-my-first-motor-but-it-was-machined-10-under-(only-main-bearing)so-i-got-oversized-main-bearings-only.
my-tapping-on-the-oil-pan-it-sounds-like-a-rod-so-im-not-in-the-mood-for-another-rebuild-after-only-a-week.

got-most-of-the-oil-pan-off-except-the-bracket-which-i-cant-do-w/o-a-metric-socket-(at-g/fs-house)

o-well-i-guess-shes-gonna-sit-for-the-summer

finally pulled the pan off and didnt find flowers. Motor isnt much salvagable and I talked to guy that sold me crank. He said that the rod bearings were machined, not the main so WTF? I have saved convos of me asking him because I didnt want to make aq stupid mistake and now he tells me its the rod not the main ? I even asked right before I put my credit card in for howell. Anyway the bottom of the rod I pulled out wasnt circular anymore but straight. Crank looks like it might be reusablebut who knows. Now I have to worry about a block and head again. WTF after only a week. Just wanted to update. In debt from last rebuild and no car to get to work now. Hows every ones elses summer?

Originally posted by brokenrodguy
Hows every ones elses summer?

Shitty thus far. :thumbsup Good luck to you, sir.

Next time you rebuild, follow the factory 420a rebuild manual, and plastigage all the bearings.

IMO just have a machine shop do all the work, and get a 30 day warranty on everything.

Sounds to me like when you blew up your last motor, pieces of metal got in the galleys and maybe the oil pump and clogged it up the second time around. Not to mention you probably had the wrong size bearings.

The guy who sold you the crank, regardless of how it was machined is not responsible. Checking clearances is the responsibility of the customer. It says that on the outside of all bearings and service manuals.

Good luck, I'm on my 3rd engine too. :)

I talked to the guy who sold the crank and compared it to my howell order and it matched fine. So I did have the right bearings on. SO now what ? On the day my motor went I stoped by autozone in the morning because 3/4 to max on my dip stick wasnt good enough for me. So I did have the oil. Had oil, bearings were fine. SO what else could it be ? Was it wrong for going 70 on a new motor ? Everything was changed including the oil pump. New rings gaskets ... everything. WTF man ? What else could it be and why did I have an oil light only after motor hitting temp and idle ? Im lost :wtf

Originally posted by brokenrodguy
I talked to the guy who sold the crank and compared it to my howell order and it matched fine. So I did have the right bearings on. SO now what ? On the day my motor went I stoped by autozone in the morning because 3/4 to max on my dip stick wasnt good enough for me. So I did have the oil. Had oil, bearings were fine. SO what else could it be ? Was it wrong for going 70 on a new motor ? Everything was changed including the oil pump. New rings gaskets ... everything. WTF man ? What else could it be and why did I have an oil light only after motor hitting temp and idle ? Im lost :wtf

Originally posted by thedawg
plastigage all the bearings.

Did you do that, though?

yuo spun a rod bearing before.....you boght a newer crank turned .010 and used that. what did you do about the rod? Did you reuse a rod that had a spun bearing?

Did you install a new oil pump?

Terry

96 Eagle talon ESI
Star Stage II - Boost/oil/EGT gauges

97 Eclipse
Greddy header/evo exhaust - SFMU/return line - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - ceramic intake - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks

Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, 450 Turbo injectors, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

Mitchell on Demand copies available

new oil pump
Couldnt reuse old rod because it looked like a stick bug on crack



Well I dont know what could be the problem. What are the chances of another rod going with a new motor. Same one too. #4
I cant think of any more reasons. Far fetched but could it be something in my trans making my crank not sit right ? IDK Man.
If you wanna know how I feel Just imagine saving all you cash on a car for a year finally buying it then fighting for the title from the bank then having it break in a month. Then cashing in your change it get it fixed which getting your insurance bill and having it blow up on your earned day off from work a week later. All in the middle of summer and now having a car to replace it with.

Sorry I had to vent

gah im sorry to hear that

and i was told last time i spun one that i should go slow on the oversized bearings not to spin more than 3k the first 1k miles after that to limit it to about 5000 for the next 2k...worked ok i guess...

Thanks for all the support I get at this forum. I had the car for about 700 miles and it hasnt seen much light above 4k rpm. I mayb hit a peak of 4.5 when I had to pull out of a street. I follow ring set directions and broke then in goin on 3rd gear from 35 to 55. I babied this car so much because I didnt want the same shit to happen. Checked oil at least once a day even freakin let it hit temp. Sat in the car for 5 - 10 min and waited. Thinking about it just makes me pissed. Ugh after only 1 week. :cry

What were your plastigage readings on the #4 rod bearing?

That's pretty much the only way to find out if your clearances are correct. Even if you think you have the right part numbers, and even if you actually HAVE the right parts, its still possible and very likely that the newly machined/damaged parts you're installing them on won't fit right. With bearings, you're talking about .001" of error margin, they have to be very close to perfect.

http://engineparts.com/motorhead/techstuff/brgclear.html

the crank didnt go through a plastigage only a micrometer which came out to .010 oversized. That might of beed my problem but wouldnt I have knock when the car turned over ? What other possibilites could there be ?

Hmm... ok yeah. mmmmkkkkk :twitch

Lets say the stock rod bearings are 48mm or 1.889"

... if you tear up your crank with a spun bearing, you take it to a machine shop, and have have them polish it, grinding it down .010"

Your crank is now 1.879" or .010" UNDERsized. You can't have an OVERSIZED crank, they'd have to add molten metal or something.

Your crank bearing now needs to fit that undersized crank by becoming .010" thicker than a stock one.

When a stock sized bearing is on a stock sized crank, bedplate torqued down, the total gap between the bearing and crank is only a few molecules thick, like 0.00005 or something. No matter what size modified bearings you get, this tiny gap should stay the same. This is what/why you measure with plastigage that squishes down even thinner than metal foil.

If you have a .010" gap, its because you have an undersized crank but stock size bearings. This would destroy them really quickly from rattling around in there. If this is the case you need to plastigage ALL your bearings.

Originally posted by thedawg
This is what/why you measure with plastigage that squishes down even thinner than metal foil.

bam. thats the money right there. paper width clearances will fucking own you.

good luck man and let me know if you need anything, i have a whole crap load of spare parts