How easily can the cam gears jump a few teeth on the belt?



Contemplating Turbo. . . . .

http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

All Motor Beast in need of MAJOR TUNING

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

Depends on the condition of the belt. take of the view cover on the timing belt cover and push it a little bit. If it feels slack, you may have a problem. Also, if you can turn your cam gears (and motor over) there's timing marks on the cam gears that should line up.

Something like this, if it makes an sense:
O- -O

If those marks line up (and cut the cam gears in half), you should be okay..

The marks look like they may be off by half a tooth or so, but there is a little bit of slack in the belt. I can't just turn the cams of anything but if I push on the belt between the gears, it moves down like 1/2 to 1 inch.



Contemplating Turbo. . . . .

http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

All Motor Beast in need of MAJOR TUNING

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

That's a LOT of slack. Mine doesn't move at all when i push it.

Yeah, that is way too much slack! I just put on my new belt, and there is only like a, 1/8" deflection. check your tensioner and pulley. line up the crank TDC mark and the cam gears should be lined up at the notches like described in previous post. you have to rotate the motor 2 revolutions to line up marks too.

Yeah I've got the service manual so I know the routine. I just went and got a pulley puller, I am going to rip it apart and take a look at the timing and probably change the belt. Does anyone have any parts list with P/N so I know what I might need when I get it apart. I think I am going to change the head gasket while I am that far apart. Hey XtremeRS, what all was broken on yours and what problems did you run into trying to change it with the engine in the car?



Contemplating Turbo. . . . .

http://hometown.aol.com/ohshootuhh/

All Motor Beast in need of MAJOR TUNING

Perf:
KYB AGX Struts
Neuspeed Sport Springs
5 Strut Bars (2 F/U, F/L, R/U, R/L)
Sprint Front Camber Kit
$15 Rear Camber Kit
Corbin's A/F Gauge
MSD DIS-2 Ignition System
Some Regrind Cams that need High Compression (which I don't have)
Ported Intake Manifold
Ported Throttle Body
Nameless Cold Air Intake with a K&N Filter
Custom 2 1/2 inch exhaust with Dual DTM Muffler
Empty Catalytic Convertor
Energy Suspension Motor Mount inserts
Hurricane_GS Short Shifter
Symborsky Shift Kit
Clutchmasters Stage 3 Modular
225/50/16inch Wheels and Tires


Audio:
Alpine CD Head Unit
Alpine Flex4 25W X 4 for Fronts and Rears
Alpine V-12 450W X 1 for Subs
Infinity Reference Series 5 1/4 and 1 inch tweeter component systems for fronts and rears
Blaupunkt 3 way 6x9's in the rears
3 MTX 5000 10" 12 ohm subs running 4 ohms mono

Damn Kyle... that's a lot of slack, I would get a new tensioner if I were you, along with a new belt. And try not to drive too much, You don't want to slip so many teeth you start to actually do damage.

"The fastest draw is when the sword never leaves the scabbard,
The strongest way to block, is never to provoke a blow,
And the cleanest cut is the one withheld."

Michael J. Kulaga
e-mail: Michael_97RS@2gntDSM.zzn.com aol IM: MJKulga
http://highlander.dsmpower.com/

All Motor Beast in the Making

Injen CAI, 55mm TB, Hooker 4-1 Stepped Header, GS-T Muffler, AFX UDP, S-AFC, 8.5mm Magnecor Wires, SS Clutch Line, NRG Susp. Motor Mount Ins., FU/RU/RL STBs, TSW Blade 17x7.5, Bridgestone Potenza RE730 215/45ZR-17. Front KVR Cross-Drilled Rotors and Carbon Fiber Pads

To Be Installed: Ported/Polished Intake Manifold, Rear disc brake conversion kit, SS Brake Lines, Rear KVR Cross Drilled Rotors and KVR Carbon Fiber Kevlar Pads

Hey fast420A, i already wrote up a how-to and sent it to the admin, but i havent heard anything from them yet, but i can emial it to you. Its like 3 pages long with a tools needed list and all the steps to do a timing belt. Something i want to add to it now though, and i will think it will be EXTREMELY helpful when taking off your motor mount plate, in front of the timing cover. There are 3- 4" long bolts that hold on the motor mount plate. The thing is there is only about 2" of work room between the block and the frame. It was a real bitch getting this out, as you read my how-to, it says it all. But last night, i thought of something that would be an easy problem solver. The top right bolt is no problem getting out, just raise the motor enough to get it out. The other 2 bolts are right in line with the frame of the car, thus not letting you fully remove the bolts. All you have to do now is to drill at least a 3/4" hole completly through the frame, starting in the wheel well, then through the engine side of the frame. You will have to do your best to line up the drilled out holes with the bolt heads on the plate(thats the tough part), but now, you can use an extention with the socket, and take out the bolt through the drilled holes!!! DAMN!! I wish i thought of that when i did mine!! That damn motor mount plate took me almost 30 min to get out! I also had to break off the front half of the timing cover to get it out too. I will send you the how to in your e-mail! let me know if you get it ok!

Hey don't worry about slack in the belt unless it has slack ALL the time. Depending on where the cams stop spinning, you will sometimes have slack. I once thought something was really wrong cus I could push it down over 1/2 an inch, but then Mike at RRE told me it depends on where your motor stops turning, something about TDC etc. I restarted my car, turned it off, and this time it was fully tight with no slack. Also, the AEM cam gear marks are a little off. It's kinda hard to explain, but each mark is half a tooth off in the opposite direction, so that the overall marks will be one tooth off if you have the timing set right. RRE has pictures of this on their site here: http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclipsetech/2gnt/ and they also carved the real, correct marks into my cam gears. Check out the pictures to see how it lines up...

In this picture below, the small marks are the AEM cam gear marks, and the longer marks are the correct marks Mike carved into my gears. Copy and paste the address:

www. roadraceengineering.com/eclipsetech/2gnt/2gnt-aemmarks-wrong.jpg