couple questions.........

Priming oil pump...I've heard about it somewhere....how exactly do you go about this.

sealants?....what is best for each area......oil pan gasket? where oil pump meets the block?....head gasket....copper spray..right?....locktite....what bolts?

Need info on where you guys put what on each area of the buildup....I don't have my fsm handy........Please help.

Tony

Originally posted by enhance
couple questions......... Priming oil pump...I've heard about it somewhere....how exactly do you go about this. sealants?....what is best for each area......oil pan gasket? where oil pump meets the block?....head gasket....copper spray..right?....locktite....what bolts? Need info on where you guys put what on each area of the buildup....I don't have my fsm handy........Please help. Tony

Oil pump: Pack it with Vaseline Jelly.

Oil pan Gasket: Does not necessarily need RTV but you do need some where the oil pump meets the block. For all cases on your block I recommend
Permatex Ultra Grey
http://permatex.com/auto/autouh.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no=82194

or Ultra Copper
http://permatex.com/auto/autouh.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no=81878

(the two highest temp ranges and resistance to fluids).

Anaerobic Sealant for oil pump to block.
http://permatex.com/auto/autouh.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no=51813

Head Gasket: some people say it is not needed but again, it cannot hurt. Permatex copper spray is best.
http://permatex.com/products/prodidx.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no=80696

Threadlocker/loctite on main bolts/studs, rod bolts, and any other bolts you do not want backing out under vibration. Use this:
http://permatex.com/products/prodidx.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no=27200

Bedplate to block is of course anaerobic as well. Where ever you have finely machined surfaces, anaerobic will work well. Keep in mind it only seals to 0.050 inches. Not meant to work where RTV does.


Use High Temp thread Sealant:
http://permatex.com/products/prodidx.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no=59214

...for Pressure sending units, temp. sending units etc. I use that in my shop for anything that needs sealing from fluids. Works extremely well.

Use Assembly lube for all your bearings and moving parts so the initial start up is not dry.
http://permatex.com/products/prodidx.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no=81950

oh my god i didnt realize how much of that i needed..DAMN good info..points

yea code4 fuckin own3d this thread, heh :thumbsup

permatex grey rtv works really good for any oil related seals like the oil pump to block, or the sending unit in the back, etc. i always use the grey stuff for anything oil related.

of course, anaerobic sealant on bedplate to block, double check bedplate o-ring is there before you drop the remaining bedplate half on, just for re-assurance.

dont use threadlock on the rod bolts. use assembly lube, or moly lube if you have it.

RED rtv works awesome on the pan if you dont have a gasket in there. i have a crankscraper and no gasket and just used red rtv, no leaks, no worries.

dont use sealant on the water pump.

and pack the oil pump with vaseline jelly like code4 said, some people are like wtf? but it actually does its job.

i also used grey rtv where the oil filter adapter to block goes in, there is a rubber o-ring there but i never trust it




_________
96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca


as needles of ice
are the ill winds' talons

And if you don't have the FSM handy, go to Dino's sig and DL the damn thing so you can at least run in the house and look at it or something. :thumbsup

Originally posted by CODE4

Originally posted by enhance couple questions......... Priming oil pump...I've heard about it somewhere....how exactly do you go about this. sealants?....what is best for each area......oil pan gasket? where oil pump meets the block?....head gasket....copper spray..right?....locktite....what bolts? Need info on where you guys put what on each area of the buildup....I don't have my fsm handy........Please help. Tony

Oil pump: Pack it with Vaseline Jelly. Oil pan Gasket: Does not necessarily need RTV but you do need some where the oil pump meets the block. For all cases on your block I recommend Permatex Ultra Grey http://permatex.com/auto/autouh.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no=82194 or Ultra Copper http://permatex.com/auto/autouh.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no=81878 (the two highest temp ranges and resistance to fluids). Anaerobic Sealant for oil pump to block. http://permatex.com/auto/autouh.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no=51813 Head Gasket: some people say it is not needed but again, it cannot hurt. Permatex copper spray is best. http://permatex.com/products/prodidx.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no=80696 Threadlocker/loctite on main bolts/studs, rod bolts, and any other bolts you do not want backing out under vibration. Use this: http://permatex.com/products/prodidx.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no=27200 Bedplate to block is of course anaerobic as well. Where ever you have finely machined surfaces, anaerobic will work well. Keep in mind it only seals to 0.050 inches. Not meant to work where RTV does. Use High Temp thread Sealant: http://permatex.com/products/prodidx.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no=59214 ...for Pressure sending units, temp. sending units etc. I use that in my shop for anything that needs sealing from fluids. Works extremely well. Use Assembly lube for all your bearings and moving parts so the initial start up is not dry. http://permatex.com/products/prodidx.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no=81950

Good stuff Dave :thumbsup Maybe add this to the main page?

Thanks a lot fellas....I just have last minute..pre-assembly heebee jeebee's. Oh and DR.......I've had that fsm longer than your membership on this board......bwahahaha.....just kidding....I'm not in a position to talk much shit.

Thanks again.....I'll let ya'll know how it goes.

Tony

Okay.....ran into my first problem.

All journals on the crank were turned to .10 over.....I have all .10 over bearings.....I plastiguaged everything....worked out right in the middle on all main bearing clearances.

Now.....I tighten main bearings to 55 ft. lbs. and in the order according to the fsm.

Crank will not budge......I was under the impression it would move freely or at least move.....

Help me
Tony

Originally posted by enhance
Now.....I tighten main bearings to 55 ft. lbs. and in the order according to the fsm. Crank will not budge...

tighten the bedplate bolts you mean?

did you use some assembly lube? the crank should turn with what you've told me about the clearances, are you SURE you got the right bearings? on the back of the clevites they say the size (ex STD. for standard)



_________
96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca


as needles of ice
are the ill winds' talons

Originally posted by enhance
Okay.....ran into my first problem. All journals on the crank were turned to .10 over.....I have all .10 over bearings.....I plastiguaged everything....worked out right in the middle on all main bearing clearances. Now.....I tighten main bearings to 55 ft. lbs. and in the order according to the fsm. Crank will not budge......I was under the impression it would move freely or at least move..... Help me Tony

If the plastigauge was correct then the bearings are correct. As questioned above, you used assembly lube correct? I hope you did not put them in dry. Also, ring gap may be incorrect. When not connected to the crank, can you slide the piston in the bore with minimal effort? Get back to us on this, I want to make sure you get it right the first time.

I suggest the assembly lube, however we just used fresh oil on mine since it all went together pretty quick at that point. :shrug

This is an excellent thread, I made a post in general awhile back on the same topic, this one DEFINATELY anwsers my questions about sealants to use. Good job Code4 :thumbsup



*rebuild in process*
GST Muffler
injen short ram intake
magnecore 8.5mm wires
EGR removal/blockoff
front/rear strut tower bars
GSX dual piston calipers

Well.......after putting in the "ABCDEFGHIJ" bolts, the crank freed up some and was movable. Although it required some effort to turn it. It seem to take the most effort when the crank was close to the crank position sensor....is this normal or is something truly wrong here.

Same when the rods are torqued on....the same amount of effort is required to turn my crank by hand.

Let me know what you guys thing.....thanks for the help.

(yes everything is covered in assembly lube)

Tony

bump

Take a rubber mallet and give a hit to each end of the crank. See if that helps.

best time so far 14.3 @ 101.1mph(no traction)
fastest 2GNT with a hitch! until proven wrong...
www.cnnmotorsports.com

my built block was hard to turn the crank. but my old block out the car was easy, damn thing just kept turning if i turned it on the floor of the garage

So..........I'm guessing that it's okay that it is not easy to turn by hand.

I'm hoping this is true.....guess I'll proceed with the next things as far as the build-up.

Thanks guys...and thanks to grain for pretty much telling me what I wanted to hear.

Tony

Well........I took everything back apart and used way less lube...(I guess too much lube is bad.) But now the crank turns with just my fingers. So I'm guessing I'm good there.

Thanks for the info fellas.......I'm gonna get this thing done and hopefully have the car running this weekend. After 6 months of no car....I hope this thing works....

Tony

Good luck, and glad to hear that things are working out well. Keep us posted bro.

good luck with this, im about a week behind you with my rebuild...i hope

heh......well all the internals are all done......now I'm waiting on my water pump (which comes tomorrow) and I gotta figure out how the alternator and brackets go on.....I can't remember for the life of me...lol.

And I broke a sensor today.....it's on the back of the block (there is a larger one and a smaller one....I broke the larger one. I'm hoping napa has one...or I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and go to satan in Vero Beach. Any clue how much that sensor costs, anyone?

Can anyone post pics of connecting the tyranny back to the block....um....I forgot how I took it apart.

Thank You
Tony