Ok...I was having pretty bad overheating issues before I changed my radiator fluid...it'd over heat real bad when I was sitting...then go back down when I would drive.....it was fine before but It's happening again now....it the past few days..whats anyone's take on this? Im angry...

I had the same thing. I would overheat at idle and cool down when cruising. Do you see the overflow tank filled with boiling coolant? If so then I think its your head gasket. I replaced it and problem solved.

before you go ripping the head off of your engine...check the thermostat first. often times this is the culprit to mose overheating problems. also, check to make sure both of your fans are working properly.

and txturbo...if you were overheating standing still and not while driving i can almost guarantee you your fans werent working properly. if you think about it, the fans are useless at hi speeds, where the air is forced through the radiator fins. when driving slow/sitting still your fans are necessary to keep air comming through the fins.

hm what would I check for with the thermostat?...when I Was doing the radiator it was a little crusty but other than that fine.....and thanks for the replies..gotta keep this piece runnin...

well just replace it..they arent but like 5-7 bux at autozone. if you dont wanna do that, just remove your thermostat, button up everything, and drive around. if your still overheating, youll know its not your thermostat, if it is...drive over to the auto parts store and pick one up

Ok I had the same problem when I blew a heater line on the fire wall. Simple answer and painless.... air in the cooling system. Pop your rad cap and continue to run coolant(I use premix) while the car is running, bounce the bumper a few times and you'll see bubbling do this until the coolant is running freely without bubbles. NOTE: keep the overflow full also.

This may not be the cure but it can't hurt. Like I said it happened to me when I ahd the entire cooling system drained due to a blown heater hose. This also happened to my bmw. Try this before buying anything especially if your car ran fine before you changed coolant.

you guys always forget the obviouse....go to the car wash and spray your radiator out.....cotton from trees (cottonwood) and other debris get in the fins and dont allow the fans to cool very well. replace the thermostat as stated above, flush your cooling system make sure al the crusty crap is out of it. measure your mixture bu the gay little prestone mixture measureing bulb and make sure you dont have too much water....50/50 is really not the best mix regardless of popular belief.

next run the car idling in the drive with the rad cap off. if you can buy one of the nice funnels that attack to where the cap goes for burping the system do it...they are real nice and not expensive (30.00). If the coolant is not stable meaning it constantly rises very rapidly and drops or never quits burping air then suspect your headgasket. Before you rip the headgasket off do a pressure test. if you dont have the tool this too i recommend buying you will use it again. pressureize the system.....there shoud be 0 pressure drop with the cooling system full. if pressure slowly bleeds off the gauge on the tool you have a leak somewhere.

dont go ripping your engine apart till you troubleshoot the problem correctly, you dont see good mechanics telling customers ..hmn lets see how about we replace the headgasket and see if that works?

perhaps i should write up a troubleshooting guide for cooling systems for those who are less experienced.....

Terry
96 Eagle talon ESI
rear disk conversion Star Stage II - Optima locate in the hatch - momo Steering wheel - Boost/oil/EGT gauges, HKS TT

97 Eclipse
Greddy header/evo exhaust - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks

Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, ceramic intake, 450 Turbo injectors, SFMU/return line, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

just a thought, but you might want to check to see if both electric radiator mounted fans are operating properly.

My fan stopped working and that was what caused the overheating problems. That was because some wires got snapped somehow. After that I replaced the thermostat and all hoses. I would still overheat, mind you I have a C&R alumminum radiator with spal blades. So after I got the fans workin again, it was too late. The head gasket was leaking preassure into the coolant passages. Replaced the HG, and all is fine right now.

man that sucks

Terry

96 Eagle talon ESI
rear disk conversion Star Stage II - Optima locate in the hatch - momo Steering wheel - Boost/oil/EGT gauges, HKS TT

97 Eclipse
Greddy header/evo exhaust - Stage 2 6 puck Sprung hub MIBA clutch - Shortened shifter - Koni Yellows w/eibach prokit - Stillen Fr/Rr swaybars - DEI Keyless entry alarm - Niche 17" Shoks

Waiting to be installed: Apexi AFC, HKS EVC IV, ceramic intake, 450 Turbo injectors, SFMU/return line, GSX Front brakes (need rotors)

all this happened to me, cept i just traced the problem to a faulty ECT sensor. its a friggen thermistor. HOW does a thermister even break!?
neways, the resistance at ambient was 46kOhms, which is waaaay too high
making the ECU see ice cold, and my fans never came on

but heres a really ghetto solution to forcing hte fans to come on (besides bridging the relay lol): turn on your A/C. both fans come on at the high speed setting.