How much power on average can a 2GNT get from a cam swap? I currently got into a bitching match with my dad about how if i swap out my cams for anything higher than stage 1 (im possibly getting Crower) im going to lose a more than considerable amount of drivablity. I know this has some truth in it as my neighbor has a Chevelle thats so hopped up he cant sit and idle or the car dies. I'm wanting to go at least stage 2, but im not gonna waste the money if its a miniscule amount of power gained. No arguing this time hopefully.

I dont really know the exact answer you are looking for, but there is a HUGE write up/comparison (sp?) in the advanced forum. Just thought it'd help. I've read alot of it, but its a bit too much for my brain at one time :)

one more thing to add to consideration......like many of you, this car is my daily driver, and if it has any bearing in this topic, my engine has 81,000 miles on it.

and does the price of cams and lifters and the other associated shit make you sick?

Originally posted by Evil98GS
How much power on average can a 2GNT get from a cam swap? I currently got into a bitching match with my dad about how if i swap out my cams for anything higher than stage 1 (im possibly getting Crower) im going to lose a more than considerable amount of drivablity. I know this has some truth in it as my neighbor has a Chevelle thats so hopped up he cant sit and idle or the car dies. I'm wanting to go at least stage 2, but im not gonna waste the money if its a miniscule amount of power gained. No arguing this time hopefully.

While I don't have direct experience with the crower cams, I'd say you should go for the stage 2, not 1 or 3. Stage 1 will probably not give you enough of a power gain for the effort involved, and stage 3 will probably be too agressive for a street car. I don't think you'll have stalling issues with stage 2 cams as others have not had that issue.

Most of the people you see on here with the level 1 cams (Crower 1s, Crane 10s) will tell you they wish they would have gone with the next step up. I don't know of anyone running higher than that right now. I'll be finding out how drivable the Crower 3s are in about 4 months when I install them on my daily driver, drag machine. LOL

thanks for the input.

by the way, my dad to have the last word to our argument goes,
"no matter what you do to your car, its gonna be nowhere near as fast as my Vette, hahahahha"

thats what he thinks im trying to do?

the crower 3's should be very streetable...they have similar charactersitics of the crane #12's here is from crower's site

duraction -210 / 210
Lift -.350 / .370

the crane 12's(which i have) have very good idle and do make decent power here are their specs

Duration 240/240
lift .364/.364

Originally posted by Justin99RS
the crower 3's should be very streetable...they have similar charactersitics of the crane #12's

Really? I thought they were supposed to be closer related to the Crane 18s. If this is the case, I may have to see if there's such thing as a Crower 4 or go back to the OG plan of running the 18s.

Interesting...

EDIT:
Just found out this is not the case. Crower 3 will eat a Crane 0012 for breakfast. I hear idle will be a project in and of itself. }(

Originally posted by DR1665

Originally posted by Justin99RS the crower 3's should be very streetable...they have similar charactersitics of the crane #12's

Really? I thought they were supposed to be closer related to the Crane 18s. If this is the case, I may have to see if there's such thing as a Crower 4 or go back to the OG plan of running the 18s. Interesting... EDIT: Just found out this is not the case. Crower 3 will eat a Crane 0012 for breakfast. I hear idle will be a project in and of itself. }(

HAHA after running the Dyno program I found the Cower 2 will eat the 18's for lunch LOL

the Crower 3 have got to be like best bang for buck

Originally posted by Justin99RS
the crower 3's should be very streetable...they have similar charactersitics of the crane #12's here is from crower's site duraction -210 / 210 Lift -.350 / .370 the crane 12's(which i have) have very good idle and do make decent power here are their specs Duration 240/240 lift .364/.364

hahaha, Stage 3's very streetable. Sorry had to laugh.

Your specs are off, Brian hasn't updated the .html portion of the site, go look in the .pdf catalog and get more current specs.

The Crower Stage 3's are likely to be more agressive than a Crane 18, read in the Advanced section, there a great breakdown of grinds and outputs, etc.

Here's what I pulled for our catalog from a more up to date spec list. And this may be a little underrated as well. The specs they list for the stage 2's are a touch less than what my stage 2's came at, but then again I got the first pair.

Camshaft specifications:
Intake: Duration= 254* Lift= .444"
Exhaust: Duration= 250* Lift= .437"

Duration at .050":
Intake: 205*
Exhaust: 200*

Lobe lift:
Intake: .254"
Exhaust: .250"

Plus my added opinion of I like how Crower setsthegrind in compairison to the Crane specs as far as intake and exhaust specs compairing to our stock specs. They are set better for keeping good exhaust gas velocity.



Exile Racing Technologies: http://www.exileracing.com
una salus victus

yea those specs are a bit different haha...jeeebus over .440 lift...damn...thats gotta be getting close to the limit of clearance :whoa :bowdown

so what would be good for a nice n/a setup and a healthy shot of n20. the crane 012s or 014s?

Originally posted by nightwolf2369
so what would be good for a nice n/a setup and a healthy shot of n20. the crane 012s or 014s?

The 12s, the 14s have a not very agressive exhaust cam to keep a turbo spooled up.

Ive got the stage 2's on mine right now, and must say I am rather happy with them. I do have a problem with it dieing at idle unless I keep my foot on the gas (my vacuum is only reading 5hg at idle), but Im not sure if thats all cuz of the cams, or also the port work. As far as the stage 3's, they require upgraded valve springs, retainers, and aftermarket ecu. To me that says they arent gonna be very streetable.

Yeah with port work, something like and S-AFC to fool the ECU into giving it less fuel will help your idle tremendously. A cheaper solution, that may work is to adjust the throttle plate stop so you are pulling more air into the engine. You can also get creative with vacuum lines and perform idl;e repairs to get the engine ti idle without dieing.



Exile Racing Technologies: http://www.exileracing.com
una salus victus