I was just trying to take the sprocket for the timing belt off ( the one behind the harmonic balencer) and a bolt from my puller broke off. :owned What the hell should I do now? I also screwed up the harmonic balencer with a 3 jaw puller. Anyone have one they'd sell pretty cheap? Rebuilding engines is SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO much fun. Right? Oh well tomorrow will be better. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Chris

damn dude :( that sucks. once you've taken off about 20 of those fuggers you get a system down that works flawlessly...i have both a stock crank pulley and timing sprocket though ;) so you might just be in luck, let me dig through my shit load of parts on my balcony and i'll let you know

i'll also take a picture of the tool i use everytime to take off the damn timing sprocket. best way....use a steering wheel puller, a torch, 3 long hardened bolts (they screw into the sprocket) heat up the sprocket and go to town

getting it back on is a bixnatch too but i can help ya with that too ;)

i'll get on takin some pics but dont have a cable for my camera so i wont be able to show you them until like thursday or friday
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96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca


as needles of ice
are the ill winds' talons
the coldest of shadows
they seep unto the bone

silent souls leave .308 holes

Cool man. You rule. :thumbsup The puller I was using is a steering wheel puller I think my bolts were just too short. I hope I can find a way to get that fucker off though. I was just gonna drill and tap it again, but that thing looks pretty hard. I don't wanna trash a good drill in the process, ya know. Let's see them pics man. Thanks :cheers e-beer for ya.

Well if the bolt broke off in the sprocket just get an easy out and remove it that way. The best success I have had was with a harmonic balencer puller I rented from autozone. You need to buy the proper bolts to fit the sprocket though. I believe it's about 10-15 bucks to rent the tool from autozone.

I have the right tool. The bolt just broke. I don't think I can get it with an easy out. I'll have to bring them out here tomorrow and try it.

Originally posted by flamineclipse
I have the right tool. The bolt just broke.

one of the small bolts broke ha? did ii bend like i was saying?



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96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca


as needles of ice
are the ill winds' talons
the coldest of shadows
they seep unto the bone

silent souls leave .308 holes

well what happens is the turning torque you put on the bolt transfers into puller and then into the 3 bolts screwed into the sprocket and puts sideways torque on them, most of the time bending them. what i did was everytime i turned the center bolt i'd hit the puller with a hammer to bring it back to center. or better yet, have someone turn the bolt while another person just keeps tapping the puller to center it

go to a hardware store and get some bolts about ehh...about your middle finger length (HARDENED, theyre blackish in color, stronger...you'll need it because breaking the press fit on that fugger is a PITA if you dont expect it. get some FAT washers, thick enough sot he small 3 bolts wont pull through. also, make sure the bolt for the puller itself HAS A CENTERING CAP, at least get a pipe cap from a hardware store if you dont have a centering cap. the last thing you want is to fuck up your crank for no reason

hardest part of the rebuild by far imo, but its easy sailing once you get it off

getting it back on? i got your back on that one too. there a little tab that sits in the crank itself that helps to center the sprocket (you'll see when you get it off) push that into the crank and tap it flush with a small hammer. heat the inside section of the sprocket (hotness= expansion = your friend in press fit situations) best is to use a torch on the ground, grab it with a towel or something, stick it on the crank, center it with that little tab you put in a second ago. now....you're going to want a peice of lead pipe that fits OVER the crank, but not over the pulley....one open side, one capped side (so you can hit it with a hammer) now stick the pipe over the crank and center it on the sprocket, give it 5 GOOD smacks, it should seat on there quick style....it doesnt go ALL the way down though. just look at the motor from the top centerline and you can see if its on as far as it will go.

TRUST me, this is the fastest, easiest, most painless, less smoke break way to do it i've found. i can get one off and back on in 5 mins flat

im sorry if my descriptions suck...i'll take some pics though for sure
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96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca


as needles of ice
are the ill winds' talons
the coldest of shadows
they seep unto the bone

silent souls leave .308 holes

Thanks man. That helps a ton. Points to you my friend.

Originally posted by flamineclipse
Thanks man. That helps a ton. Points to you my friend.

anytime man :thumbsup. i like your c2's too, i have c3's myself theyre just not on yet.

sexy, aint it ;)



i'll get those pics up for you ASAP ;)



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96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca


as needles of ice
are the ill winds' talons
the coldest of shadows
they seep unto the bone

silent souls leave .308 holes

It's actually not that hard to drill the crank pulley out man. Someone managed to start the thing on backwards during the last rebuild and we all kinda missed it until it was time to do the timing and there were no marks! LOL. Shawn went and picked up the right sized drill and a tap set and we drilled, tapped and used new bolts for the new taps to pull that sucka back off. I imagine you might be able to drill the OEM holes larger to accommodate larger, stronger bolts, but you should only really have to pull it once, right? ;)

I just got it out. WHEW :thumbsup I took a small punch and spun it out. :afro Josh, man those wheels are sexy. So now I'm gonna try some grade 8 bolts and hopefully that will work. Do you guys think I should heat this bitch up a little first.

Originally posted by flamineclipse
Do you guys think I should heat this bitch up a little first.

mos def, it makes it easier. just watch the flame and keep it on the sprocket only, the front main seal for the oil pump is right behind the sprocket and you might melt it or something if you're not careful, just keep that in mind is all. heat it up though, definately. press fit and heat go hand in hand

edit: thanks for the comment on the rims :) it took me a whole day to paint just one



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96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca


as needles of ice
are the ill winds' talons
the coldest of shadows
they seep unto the bone

silent souls leave .308 holes

i've done a few of these as well. if you dont want to worry about the flame of the torch heating stuff up to much just set you oven to 500 and leave it in there for half an hour. When i did that mine SLID on, no pressure at all. The upd is the bitch to smack on there w/o bending the damn thing.

I scored my crank when my oil pump went so i ended up finding a new block and i pulled the crank out of it. The shitty thing was the timing gear was seized on this thing. I heated it to the point it was turning purplish blue and it still didnt budge. i bent so many of those bolts in the process, lol. Good luck.

Originally posted by turbo8u
i have c3's myself theyre just not on yet. sexy, aint it ;)

Hurry up, those rims look pimp.