I recently got a 98 RS 5 speed with 120k miles on it for a great price and I now want to turn it into a project car. It seems to have two small oil leaks and isn't exactly running smoothly. I want to gradually build up the engine, adding performance parts and eventually working my way to a turbo and possibly nos.

I am looking to spend no more than 2 grand right now and will be donig the labor myself. What suggestions does anyone have on what I can do when I take my engine apart in two weeks? What are good gaskets...or if anyone could recommend a good performance rebuild kit or somethin?

Originally posted by project98rs
I recently got a 98 RS 5 speed with 120k miles on it for a great price and I now want to turn it into a project car. It seems to have two small oil leaks and isn't exactly running smoothly. I want to gradually build up the engine, adding performance parts and eventually working my way to a turbo and possibly nos. I am looking to spend no more than 2 grand right now and will be donig the labor myself. What suggestions does anyone have on what I can do when I take my engine apart in two weeks? What are good gaskets...or if anyone could recommend a good performance rebuild kit or somethin?

You can get the howell short block with lo comp pistons or the vt block. Might as well bullet proof your engine while your at it. Or you can get the howell rebuild kit for 1200. I'd go with the short block though if you aren't experienced enough.

-------jezreel
hrc stage 2, sfmu, ml, prokits, egt, boost gauge, apexi tt, turbo xs rfl, haydans tranny cooler, costum dp, dr. uber groundwires, dynotune fp gauge. gst muff, turbo spoiler

nothing like driving with the windows down and the music low: i love hearing the turbo spool, swwwhhhttt!!!!
thanks for www.kaptainmyke.com for the sig hosting :thumbsup

Well...I had to dissamble and reassamble my truck engine a couple times, but this is my first step into performance tuning, upgrades, etc

...everything I'd done before was just for maintainance purposes.

you could just buy a motor already done.. hehe

Was thinking about that...but I'll learn a lot more if I do it myself.

If you want to do it up right, you should get the rebuild kit (but only if you have sufficient internals experience or have done a lot of research). Find a reputable machine shop with good prices for things like cleaning/boring/honing etc., and get as much out of your money as you can. Sounds like you might need some basic tune up stuff too. What did you mean by "not running smoothly" and where is the oil leaking from? It could be as simple as the gasket on the CMP or as fun as the HG.

Welcome to town no0b. :thumbsup

Thanx for the welcome. Good to be here with people who know what they are talking about and like what they do. Hope to be around for a while.

Shifting is a little rough in low gears and it is running tough at idle (not to meantion the horrible squealing sound of my drive belt) with an occasional drop in idle speed to the point it almost dies. One oil leak is from the cam sensor (I believe) and another appears to be caused by the head gasket.

I've spent the past 3 hours reading through any threads that might be relevant to what I want to do and looking at part sites.

...no, I really have nothing better to do at work.


I'm guessing from all the recommendation that howellautomotive.com is a good place to get what I need. So far I have this much in mind:

- 2.0 Performance Bottom End Kit or the Bottom End Long Rod Kit
are there other things I would have to do to my engine if I got the long rod kit? What will be the difference between 8.6 and 10.5 compression, espically if I want to get a turbo down the road? I want to go with a .020 over-bore...how much will it cost to get that done and what else, if anything, would I need to change do if I over-bored?
- GS-T exhaust
- AFX UDP
- ARP Head Stud Kit
- Iceman CAI

...could that be done under 2 grand including any machining? The CAI and exhaust can wait a paycheck or 3.

All in all, is this a step in the right direction? Am I missing anything important that should be done before something else?

Originally posted by project98rs
Thanx for the welcome.

No problem man. ;)

Originally posted by project98rs
Good to be here with people who know what they are talking about and like what they do. Hope to be around for a while.

Ditto and Ditto imo.

Originally posted by project98rs
Shifting is a little rough in low gears and it is running tough at idle (not to meantion the horrible squealing sound of my drive belt) with an occasional drop in idle speed to the point it almost dies.

You might check the plugs out. The previous owner may not have been too mechanically inclined and they're just worn out. Other common problems with idle can be traced to a vac leak somewhere (although that usually leads to a higher idle) or a dirty IAC. Sounds like some more digging around is needed. :P

Originally posted by project98rs
One oil leak is from the cam sensor (I believe) and another appears to be caused by the head gasket.

That cam sensor is great isn't it? Mine wasn't leaking before the rebuid so I lost the new gasket I had for it. Guess where I'm losing most of the oil right now. That same place. The head gaskets are notorious for failing in the driver's side back corner. You can grind down the head bolt there a bit, but you'd have to search arounf some more to find specifics since I don't really recall all the details of why and how. Make sure you get the MLS gasket when you rebuild. It's the standard now.

Originally posted by project98rs
I'm guessing from all the recommendation that howellautomotive.com is a good place to get what I need.

They hardly ever fuck up. :P Just playing with ya. They're one of the big dogs when it comes to 420A building/tuning. Been doing business with 2GNTers for a while. For your stock parts from the dealer, you'll want to find Bob Kise's number. He hooks 2GNTers up with service and pricing.

Originally posted by project98rs
So far I have this much in mind: - 2.0 Performance Bottom End Kit or the Bottom End Long Rod Kit are there other things I would have to do to my engine if I got the long rod kit?

I'm not sure about that one. I know it's been called the high-rpm "screamer" so that would mean extensive head mods to handle the higher revs. Might be out of the budget man.

Originally posted by project98rs
What will be the difference between 8.6 and 10.5 compression, espically if I want to get a turbo down the road? I want to go with a .020 over-bore...

Stock 2GNT CR is 9.6:1. If you change 1 point (and this is old news man) you change HP by roughly 4%. 10.6 would gain 4%, 8.6 would lose 4%. The higher your CR is, the closer you would be to detonation with forced induction. If you like to boost it and go, you can lower the CR for a greater safety margin, but both will require tuning. There's no way around that. Finally, the .020" bore is just to make sure the cylinder walls are clean and true for the new rings. Not much more than that.

Originally posted by project98rs
how much will it cost to get that done and what else, if anything, would I need to change do if I over-bored?

You're looking at around $1500 imo for the rebuild alone, including parts and machining. So...

Originally posted by project98rs
GS-T exhaust - AFX UDP - ARP Head Stud Kit - Iceman CAI ...could that be done under 2 grand including any machining? The CAI and exhaust can wait a paycheck or 3. All in all, is this a step in the right direction? Am I missing anything important that should be done before something else?

You would be pretty close to, if not, just over your budget going this route. Personally, I would skip on the ARP studs (~$200) and the Iceman for starters. You can hack your factory airbox as a free mod or pick up an eBay shit ram if you really need one. The GST exhaust is a popular mod and good for up to ~300hp I think. Just spend some more time in the search and hang out a bit longer and you'll get the hang of things for sure man. I've barely been here a year and a half (has it been that long already?) and I've already got almost 11k on my rebuilt bottom end with minimal fuck ups showing. :P You can do it.


Oh and 2GNT owns you now...

ARP head studs are 149.00 at Howell's. If you buy those you don't have to trim the threads down. You could also get the Mopar head bolts(OEM) which are 30 bucks(it is wise to buy new ones). There are four short bolts that are used in the corners of the head. Trim about 3 threads off of ONE of those short bolts and use it in the rear, driver's side corner of the head.

At my machine shop, a bore and hone cost 60.00. The shop will need the pistons you are using to do this. Cleaning for the block cost 25.00.

As far as head work, cleaning, resurfacing, and valve job cost me 150.00.

Here is a link from Dino's sig:

http://www.nochoads.org/files/

I downloaded the 420A Overhaul manual, printed it and put it in a three ring binder.

Hope this helps.

Tony

Originally posted by enhance
ARP head studs are 149.00 at Howell's. If you buy those you don't have to trim the threads down. You could also get the Mopar head bolts(OEM) which are 30 bucks(it is wise to buy new ones). There are four short bolts that are used in the corners of the head. Trim about 3 threads off of ONE of those short bolts and use it in the rear, driver's side corner of the head. At my machine shop, a bore and hone cost 60.00. The shop will need the pistons you are using to do this. Cleaning for the block cost 25.00. As far as head work, cleaning, resurfacing, and valve job cost me 150.00. Here is a link from Dino's sig: http://www.nochoads.org/files/ I downloaded the 420A Overhaul manual, printed it and put it in a three ring binder. Hope this helps. Tony

Ok so the arp is pointless? But i figured they would be the best like 125 i ever spent in the whole build wait...the best 125 i spent so far would be the cams lol. But Seriously should we use arp or stockers?(that are trimmed) I hear that in boosting a 420a arp are essential to the build. just my .02 lmk what you think

USe the ARP's. Well worth the insurance! This is a very old thread, lets let it go back to the archives. I do appreciate you searching though.