the whole 2gnt headgasket problem, from what i've seen on the posts the headstuds should be replaced when putting a new mls gasket on. now what about the headbolts?? or is the stud and bolt being confused for the same thing??? because if the studs are too long or one of them is at least, wouldn't it make sense if you bolt down the rear headbolt and it bottoms out then the gasket would leak. but the studs are just where it mounts or am i wrong and the bolts and studs the same damn thing?????

Originally posted by talonesi-t
the whole 2gnt headgasket problem, from what i've seen on the posts the headstuds should be replaced when putting a new mls gasket on. now what about the headbolts?? or is the stud and bolt being confused for the same thing??? because if the studs are too long or one of them is at least, wouldn't it make sense if you bolt down the rear headbolt and it bottoms out then the gasket would leak. but the studs are just where it mounts or am i wrong and the bolts and studs the same damn thing?????

A bolt is a bolt. A stud is a stud. You are confused. You use head studs in place of head bolts. You also don't need head studs on a stock car. New factory head bolts are fine. The MLS gasket by itself will fix the half-true leaky headgasket problem.

SO BASICLY ALLS I HAVE TO DO IS GET THE MLS AND USE MY FACTORY BOLTS OR WOULD I BE BETTER OFF GETTING THE STUDS WITH IT???

Originally posted by talonesi-t
SO BASICLY ALLS I HAVE TO DO IS GET THE MLS AND USE MY FACTORY BOLTS OR WOULD I BE BETTER OFF GETTING THE STUDS WITH IT???

New gasket same bolts or new gasket and new factory spec bolts.

mls gasket, and if you plan to run higher boost get the studs from arp. do not reuse your stock headbolts if you are going to go that route. go to dodge, and get a new set, theyre not that much, only like $35. do not go to mitsu, youll spend anywhere from $50-$100.

napa, head bolts 15 bucks.. DO NOT REUSE HEADGASKET OR BOLTS, trust me, I've delt w/ the consequences... shave about 2 threads off of the short bolt that is closest to the drivers side door, so if you are looking at your head from in front of your car, its the upper right bolt (short one) I just had a big problem w/ it a few weeks back, and if you use studs, it'll save ya money in the long run, just incase somethin does go wrong, you dont have to keep buying new bolts.. no matter how much hp you are producing, it'll save ya if you ever have to take it off again...just my .02 though, oh and napa has a mls (multi-layer steel) headgasket for about 26 bucks... atleast my napa does, they are all independantly owned, and mine gives me 10% off, so they are purdy dag gon cheap :) g'luck

Also, no matter what head BOLTS you use, grind 2-3 threads off the bottom of the bolt closest to the driver (top-right corner bolt).

Head STUDS don't need to be ground at all.

I agree on always use brand new, OEM, 4 layer, MLS headgasket and new head bolts.

The half-truth Dino is talking about is a "rumored" factory defect where the top right bolt hole wasn't drilled deep enough and sometimes the bolt bottoms out before proper torque is applied to the head. The basis for this rumor is the strange coincidence that a large majority of 2gnt HG leaks start on the back right corner of the engine.