You've probably seen my post concerning the harmonic balancer and such, but now i need to tune my gears to the best possible setting without hitting the dyno, which is in the works for the end of the month. Right now the gears are set at -3 exhaust and -1 intake. The car has alot more torque(thanks to the ES motor mounts too), but its very noticable now that the gears are set a little better. With my head milled .050 is this the optimal setting for now? My idle is a bit rough now, almost a cam to it. Thanks for your help.

i had those gears, they sucked ass...the notches were not even so it was a bitch to tune with them, made the car run like shit, but the stocks on, alot of problems went away...herd the AEM were much better...i had mine on those same settings, kina killed the upper end, lower end it womped

good luck, i hated those things

well i lined the gears up before installing and they looked to be right on with the stock timing marks. I could be wrong...

I thought the concensus was to leave the exhaust at 0deg. since that is where the cam sensor is and can fuck with the ecu. now since you are milled i dont know what that will do to the supposed "stock" settings. But I have my exhaust set a 0 and my intake -3deg.

yeah im trying to get the exhaust cam back to its stock place, but with the mill i have no clue as to where that may be..thats why im asking. With an udp, cai, gst catback, gutted cat, ported tb, etc whats the best intake cam setting?

Originally posted by djtrickee
I thought the concensus was to leave the exhaust at 0deg. since that is where the cam sensor is and can fuck with the ecu. now since you are milled i dont know what that will do to the supposed "stock" settings. But I have my exhaust set a 0 and my intake -3deg.

yeah but your compression is probably 9:6:1, his is like 12:1....2 degrees retard per 20 thousandths milled, so 50/20 is 2.5, 2.5+9.6 is 12.1, atleast that's the way I was taught, so Alex saying that, maybe -2.5 intake would be stock (which is close to your -3) which is .5 degrees of performance you've gained, and w/ the exhaust, hell if I know.. it makes sense sometimes and other times I dont know, haha talk to Justin, he always knows ALWAYS.. oh yeah he has a secret to, but I'm not gonna blab it out, ask him and then congraduate him and then call him whooped :) peace man

get online foo, whats the secret???

haha I cant, my aim is fucked up.. haha I am wasting a post, so here is some useful info.. dont put diesel fuel in our cars..... I cant say, just ask him... dunnnn dunnnn dun dunnnnn that's my hint, I dont want him bitchin at me for tellin :)

stv, pm me the info or get justin to, im heading out again today and i dont know when i'll be able to get on aol. PLEASE!!!

I have mine set the +7 intake and 0 on exhaust. I don't see why you would retard your intake, from what I hear more intake advancement improves top end.

Originally posted by SilverRS
I have mine set the +7 intake and 0 on exhaust. I don't see why you would retard your intake, from what I hear more intake advancement improves top end.

Damn, added 14 degrees of overlap. Retarding your intake cam would reduce overlap, could be good for turbo, not na.

You need to first align for the hed mill and then worry about tuning. Really every car is different, there is no cookie cutter setting everyone can use. Depending on your mods, your engine, it all makes it different. Even stock to stock one may like a setter better than another. Basically with the higher compression, and being NA you'll want to add overlap. But watch valve clearances with your milled head.

What's been done to the head by the way, besides .050" mill? (because at .050" the valve would have gotten in the way of the mill so they would have had to come out, and have the valve seats redone) Did you get a valve job? any porting?



Exile Racing Technologies: http://www.exileracing.com
una salus victus
It's holding down the garage floor right now.

The head was completely redone without porting. All new valve seals/seats and cleaned up nicely. I dont even know where to start with trying to line the head back to stock timing with the mill, i was hoping you vet's could help me out so i could try a few different settings and see which works best

aem cai
hump removed from tb
gutted cat
gst catback
mill .050
afx udp

Those are the supporting mods and if someone could give me a few settings to try out i would really appreciate it. Ive searched but didnt really find the information i need to tune, it seems that i have the largest mill yet on the board so im thinking this is new for us all. A friend said 2 degree of retard per 20 thousandths removed from the head, can i base my tuning from this? -5 on the exhaust side seems a bit much, but with the mill i have no idea. Thanks again for any help

bah, i feel so unimportant

Make a second set of marks on the inner portion of the cam gear that line up with the timing marks. Get the crank sprocket to TDC. Then work and align the inner marks together with the crank at TDC, and everything "should" be lined up.

For setting just play with it, try advancing the intake cam and adding overlap. Especially with the higher compression your settings are going to different than a guy with a cold air and stock compression. Play with it,drive around a bity and see which one feels the best.



Exile Racing Technologies: http://www.exileracing.com
una salus victus
It's holding down the garage floor right now.

why do i have to align the marks again? We triple checked the timing after it was completed with a total of 9 full rotations of the motor to make sure everything was dead on. Remarking the cams will make a difference?

When i get home im going to play around with the intake cam, -3 on exhaust seems to work well. I figure 0, +1 will be the best for the intake, maybe more.