I was wondering if someone could tell me where all of the stock grounding locations are supposed to be. My car has been acting weird lately, and I am thinking it may be due to bad grounding. My battery is mounted in the trunk area, and grounded to the frame rail where the bumper bolts in. I checked the continuity between the negative terminal and the engine, and got 22ohms. When I checked the body ground up front(where the negative battery wire normally bolts to the body), I got 8ohms. I was told it needs to be as close to 0 as possible, and 1 is acceptable. The only stock grounds I can find are from the firewall to the intake manifold, and from the body ground to the tranny bellhousing. Are there more that I am missing? I plan on replacing them all with 4ga wire anyways because I can get it and the end loops for free. If there aren't anymore stock locations, where are some good places to ground too while still having the battery in the back?

I forgot to mention the car stutters like when a coil pack is going bad, and I have been getting random CEL codes when this happens. Things like 11, 54, 21, and 13. Those are for no crank angle sensor, no cam angle sensor, front O2 stays at center, and no change in map voltage. Those are some odd CEL's to get, because if any were true I'm pretty sure I'd notice. My blinky light gauge is blinking, so I know my front O2 isn't staying at center, and the car runs like normal except for the occasional, and random stutter. If the crank or cam angle sensors weren't giving a reading, the car would die because it couldn't tell timing. If grounding doesn't fix it, I'll be at a loss.

I noticed small guage grounds coming out of the harness along the firewall. Theres the obvious line from the throttle cable to the firewall, and I believe one little ring terminal is just left of where that one hits the firewall and another one over by the washer resevoir.

The ground wire kits that Uber and I have made have 3 lines coming off the negative battery terminal.

1 goes to the throttle cable and then leap frogs to the alternator adjustment bolt
1 goes to the block where the factory ground cable attaches (just to the right of the starter on the NVT-350 - another one you might check), and then leap frogs to the head where the hoisting plate mounts.
1 goes straight to the factory ground point on the fender.

This set up eliminates ground loop potential and directs all the ground potential to the negative terminal and channels it all to one clean ground.

Good luck sir. :thumbsup

Thanks for the info about the ground points. The one on the tranny and the intake mani are the only ones hooked up on my car, and the only ones even present in my engine bay since I've owned it. I'm going to try getting a good ground in most of the places you mentioned. My body ground is good, I plan on running one to the alternator, replacing the one from the firewall to the intake mani, and running one to the block and head. I'm not 100% clear on this ground loop issue, but my friend was talking about it. He does custom install work, and I make him do all my electrical stuff. At work he makes $65/hr labor. I buy him a 6 pack and we're golden.