Go back to previous topic
Forum namePerformance/Engine
Topic subjectI think cyl. #3 went.
Topic URLhttps://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=i5&topic_id=68058
68058, I think cyl. #3 went.
Posted by python6586, Feb-08-04 04:01 PM
here are the symptoms tell me what you think,
start the car up idle is not smooth but it still idles, after bout 30 seconds blue smoke poors out of the exhaust, i have this metalalic sounding very loud knocking/slapping sound comming from what seemed to be cylinder 2 or 3 and its not predominte in the head or oil pan seems to be between them aka the block, so after it idles a bit and smoke was pooring out of the exhaust i quick shut her down and pulled the plugs and out of cylinder 3 smoke was puffing out of the plug well. so i figure that got to be the bad cylinder, didnt do a comp. test yet. i have been boosted at 5-6lbs unintercooled for 5k miles at the most never had a prob running lean or n never took my egts much above 1400, 1450 at the most but the probe is on teh downpipe, the only thing i can think of is the other day, i punched it from like 1/4 throttle at 4000rpms and spiked to like 11lbs of boost for a split second then the wastegate opened so u think ringlands on #3


Mods:
CAI, OBX exhaust, Grillcraft grills, altezzas, ard ryver g6 17's wrapped w/ falken's, VIS racing c.f hood, 2 12" kicker comp's w/pioneer h.u, streetglow blue undercars, red dash kit, indiglo guages, n other shit
68061, RE: I think cyl. #3 went.
Posted by WickedESi, Feb-08-04 04:16 PM
Post your comp. test.
68069, RE: I think cyl. #3 went.
Posted by Ryan_Hes, Feb-09-04 01:28 AM
With the EGT on the downpipe your temps were about 200 degrees coolor....therefore you were actually nearing or over 1600 degrees at the exhaust manifold....which is bad.

11psi on stock pistons is also not good...probably not a coincidence...

Do a comp test... ::gulp::
68072, RE: I think cyl. #3 went.
Posted by XtremeRS, Feb-09-04 02:59 AM
Let the motor idle, and pull the oil dipstick. If its puffing out smoke, you def have a cracked ring land. A compression test will verify this. BTW, I blew my motor when I spiked to 11 psi.
68085, built engine reliablity
Posted by python6586, Feb-09-04 08:52 AM
ok thanks for all your input, would someone please help me explain to my rents that a built engine (most likely VTcomp or howell rebuild kit low comp) and a t/3 at 10-12psi intercooled with enough fuel will be a reliable set-up, reliable meaning that its not gonna blow in another year, anyway has any1 even blown a built motor yet, that wasnt running an extreme amount of boost????

Thanks again for everything


Mods:
CAI, OBX exhaust, Grillcraft grills, altezzas, ard ryver g6 17's wrapped w/ falken's, VIS racing c.f hood, 2 12" kicker comp's w/pioneer h.u, streetglow blue undercars, red dash kit, indiglo guages, n other shit
68086, RE: built engine reliablity
Posted by JasonESi_T, Feb-09-04 09:12 AM
Originally posted by python6586
ok thanks for all your input, would someone please help me explain to my rents that a built engine (most likely VTcomp or howell rebuild kit low comp) and a t/3 at 10-12psi intercooled with enough fuel will be a reliable set-up, reliable meaning that its not gonna blow in another year, anyway has any1 even blown a built motor yet, that wasnt running an extreme amount of boost???? Thanks again for everything



Yes, it would be VERY reliable so long as the fuel system is just as reliable. You need to have your car tuned though.

If you don't know how to tune, take your car to a dyno that does.

Any engine can blow...even built ones.
68088, RE: built engine reliablity
Posted by python6586, Feb-09-04 10:11 AM
the reason they are so worried is because they talked to one engine builder who almost couldnt believe i put a turbo on a factory non-turbo car and when he hears 10-12lbs its like its unheard of and he says your gonna have melted pistons and you cant run a turbo without alot of other electronic timing retard devices and i told him that thats the reason i want forged interal becuz there stronger than the stock cast and the weakest part is the ringlands, and he replies there are alot of weak parts on those mitsu. engines. then i said to him well its not made by mitsu. its the chrystler engine in the nonturbo eclipses and he almost laughed in disbelief and said well ill have to take your word for it.so i tried to tell me rents they have to talk to some1 who knows bout are engines but the prob. is i dont think any1 locally that knows this shit bout the 420a. god help me its a never ending battle.


Mods:
CAI, OBX exhaust, Grillcraft grills, altezzas, ard ryver g6 17's wrapped w/ falken's, VIS racing c.f hood, 2 12" kicker comp's w/pioneer h.u, streetglow blue undercars, red dash kit, indiglo guages, n other shit
68089, RE: built engine reliablity
Posted by onetrav, Feb-09-04 10:40 AM
Damn jackass mechanics. Good luck man.
68120, RE: built engine reliablity
Posted by HiOnPSI, Feb-10-04 04:14 AM
learn all you can...

Jon

1997 Eclipse RS

13.887@104.648 5/30/03

www.haiokuracing.com
68257, RE: built engine reliablity
Posted by python6586, Feb-11-04 02:55 PM
ok went out and did a compression test,and i got between 185-190psi in all 4 cylinders. the engine was cold for this test (hasnt been started in 3 days and it was out in the 20* weather) so i figure after warming up the comp. numbers would have been very good. so now im back to square 1.

Mods:
CAI, OBX exhaust, Grillcraft grills, altezzas, ard ryver g6 17's wrapped w/ falken's, VIS racing c.f hood, 2 12" kicker comp's w/pioneer h.u, streetglow blue undercars, red dash kit, indiglo guages, n other shit