ok first off i'd just like to let you know that my new motor was birthed at 7:26pm tonight, no CEL's, no problems whatsoever, cranked over the first try, shabam. i owned that motor. but the clutch, thats another story.

it seems to be slipping (high revving, not goin anywhere) it doesnt seem like its engaging but i can roll in first but as soon as i give it more gas it just revs. i really need some help here so any and all TECHNICAL input is helpful. noobs, dont post a random idea, i dont have time for it. thanks guys, it really sucks i got it all done, runs perfect except this little clutch problem.

also, is it even proactical to just pull the tranny alone? is it even possible? whats the easiet way to replace the clutch? i might have to end up pulling the tranny to see exactly wtf is going on

p.s- i replaced my motor without pulling the tranny

*its a spec stage 3 clutch and when the clutch fork on the slave IS moving.* doesnt grind when i go to put it in gear either
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96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca

as needles of ice
are the ill winds' talons
the coldest of shadows
they seep unto the bone

Is the pedal adjusted too low?

I've replaced my clutch by just pulling the tranny. Tis the practical way.

you make sure u got those 4 little flexplate bolts in the back of the flexplate?

DWAYNE H
1996 eclipse
under construction widebody eclipse, targa top, 19inch rollers, big brakes, 10 point custom cage, frank 2.4 hrc s20g turbo, custom marble paint job

2000 Yamaha R-1, 165rwhp 117 ftlbs tq

ALMOST THERE...... MUWHAHAHAHAHAHA

Originally posted by Thunderous_Talon
a man could build a thousand bridges, and suck one cock. he'll forever be known as a cocksucker.

Originally posted by widebodied
you make sure u got those 4 little flexplate bolts in the back of the flexplate?

With the right Loctite on them? You know you can pull that access plate next to the oil pan on the tranny and crank over the flywheel through the starter hole, right? I might give that another check before pulling the entire tranny. If you have to pull the tranny, I bet you'll want to talk to xtrmemepsi or whatever. I think I remember him talking about dropping it in a half hour from many practice tries. :P

Yes you can drop the trans and leave the engine in.

I assume you are not beating on the clutch until it's broken in.

Did you disconnect your hydrolic clutch system? Have you tried bleeding the system?

Where does the pedal engage the clutch?



Exile Racing Technologies: http://www.exileracing.com
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Good idea man! We disconnected my clutch, and when we went to bleed it, all kinds of shit came out of that thing. Car shifts like a new machine now. Irregardless of whether you disconnected it or not, I would still advise a bleeding while you're at it man. :P

the pedal sort of engages right at the floor and right at the top. it feels way to light in the middle, it engages just enough to barely get me rolling. yes, the 4 flexplate bolts are in with the right threadlock on them. i didnt disconnect the hydraulic system at all so thats why i havent bled it, i figured i didnt have to, but thats the first thing i'm going to do when i get back in there. any writeups on pulling the tranny? (just in case i have to go in there and figure out wtf) also what would be the symptoms throw out bearing acting up?

edit: no way im beating on this clutch till its broken in
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96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca

as needles of ice
are the ill winds' talons
the coldest of shadows
they seep unto the bone

yeah same thing happened to me when I rebuilt my engine.. After bleeding it, it was smoother than ever before.. And that is most likely the whole problem.. congrats on the engine build.

Originally posted by stv
yeah same thing happened to me when I rebuilt my engine.. After bleeding it, it was smoother than ever before.. And that is most likely the whole problem.. congrats on the engine build.

what was yours doing?



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96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca

as needles of ice
are the ill winds' talons
the coldest of shadows
they seep unto the bone

is it really necassary to bleed the system after a new clutch install? i didnt disconnect the lines so i figured it was all fine. when i installed the clutch/TOB we did however push back the clutch fork all the way in order to get the motor in withotu having the clutch fork push the clutch out while trying to drop the motor in. its kind of mushy at the bottom and it kind of engages better at the top of the pedal (kind of) it just revs and i dont go anywhere really, just feels like theres nothing there

similar thread--->

http://forums.2gnt.com/dcboard.php?az=show_topic&forum=5&topic_id=30433&mesg_id=30433&listing_type=search
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96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca

as needles of ice
are the ill winds' talons
the coldest of shadows
they seep unto the bone

Originally posted by WickedESi
Is the pedal adjusted too low? I've replaced my clutch by just pulling the tranny. Tis the practical way.

My clutch wasn't fully releasing. I had to adjust the clutch pedal master cylinder rod/and stop bolt so that it would.

It was slipping and revving even when it was engaged..

Then it's not fully engaging. Did you install the slave cylinder on the correct side of the trans case? Was the TO bearing properly aligned in the fork? Did you spill a quart of oil in the pressure plate or something?

Something is keeping the clutch from completely engaging. If it needed to be bled, it would grind going into gear because it wouldn't be fully disengaging. This sounds more like the opposite problem.

the TOB was installed perfect but it might have come off the clutch fork or something :shrug. i didnt get ANYTHING on the clutch whatsoever, it was sparkly clean when i installed it.

dino, hit up the chat if you're not to busy
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96 talon esi-t
san clemente, ca

as needles of ice
are the ill winds' talons
the coldest of shadows
they seep unto the bone

if it is in 1st gear and you try starting your car.. does it roll any? if it rolls forward and its not on a decline that would mean the lil' piston is out too far and the clutch isnt fully disengaging.. if it doesnt roll backwards on an incline, then the clutch isnt engaging at all. Or if it rolls backwards when you start it and you are on an incline, then the clutch is engaging, b/c if it werent the car would stay in 1st and stand still..

Originally posted by turbo8u
the TOB was installed perfect but it might have come off the clutch fork or something :shrug. i didnt get ANYTHING on the clutch whatsoever, it was sparkly clean when i installed it. dino, hit up the chat if you're not to busy _________ 96 talon esi-t san clemente, ca as needles of ice are the ill winds' talons the coldest of shadows they seep unto the bone

LOL time to bleed clutch, I told you last night we can pull the tranny without the motor

I'm with Dino on this one. If bleeding doesn't help, then your clutch is not fully releasing. I had the same issue on my car,except it only happened when i did a fast,hard downshift from 5th to 4th. It was my slave cylinder not releasing fully. If this is your problem, there is a VERY easy way to check. Get under the car, and grab your 10mm socket wrench,start loosening the bolts of the slave cylinder, and pay CLOSE attention to the slave cyhlinder, if the pushrod and clutch fork come back with the cylinder as you loosen it up. You will actually see the fork move backward if this is the case. If it indeed moves back as you loosen the slave cylinder, then its either your slave, or master hanging up...

2 things to analyze here.

if a clutch is not disengaging completely that would mean it is partial engaged and the car would move when in gear. HIS CAR IS NOT MOVING, AND HE CAN SHIFT INTO GEAR. when you push in a clutch pedal you are disengaging the clutch disk.

if the car is in gear, and the car will not move, the clutch fork is not releasing or the throwout bearing moved, or the slave cylinder will not allow the clutch fork to release the clutch springs.

if the hydraulic system had air in it then you could disengage the clutch and therefor not put it into gear or stop the car from moving.

This is pretty basic here.

1. remove the slave cylinder from the trans by unbolting the two bolts. crank the car in gear-if it moves, the problem lies around the slave cylinder and rod assy, or the throwout bearing is off center.
still wont move?
2. Clutch disk is contaminated, or problem lies around the throwout bearing.


Here is a thought to ponder, since you did not open the hydraulic system, this is ok by the way, did the slave cylider hyper extend and cause the piston to come out of its bore and bind upon assy.

Terry